6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

<Sob>My truck getting worse instead of better

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  #181  
Old 10-26-2014, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CPB1
How long were the test drives? I would drive it a little more like SDS said. A couple hard accelerations, clean it out good.

.
Not far at all - less than 2 miles, and slowly on the way back as it got to smoking real bad.

I just pulled off the down pipe. Could get a finger inside and rubbed the side of the pipe - caked with mostly dry soot/sludge, moist around the connection. Seems like build-up over time more than a recent arrival, but maybe the recent stuff is what's burning off, starting closest to the engine?

I'm going to run it in the driveway until it gets hot, say 150 degrees and see if it ever starts smoking, and if so, if it ever stops.
 
  #182  
Old 10-26-2014, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by IHateCommieCars
Not far at all - less than 2 miles, and slowly on the way back as it got to smoking real bad.

I just pulled off the down pipe. Could get a finger inside and rubbed the side of the pipe - caked with mostly dry soot/sludge, moist around the connection. Seems like build-up over time more than a recent arrival, but maybe the recent stuff is what's burning off, starting closest to the engine?

I'm going to run it in the driveway until it gets hot, say 150 degrees and see if it ever starts smoking, and if so, if it ever stops.
Exhaust won't get near as hot in the driveway as on the interstate.

I've never seen oil on the inside of my cold side turbo inlet.

SDS puts food on his table working on these trucks. You're not going to get better advice. Plus, what do you have to lose by driving it and hour or so. Don't drive it to easy.
 
  #183  
Old 10-26-2014, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by BryanStein
Exhaust won't get near as hot in the driveway as on the interstate.

I've never seen oil on the inside of my cold side turbo inlet.

SDS puts food on his table working on these trucks. You're not going to get better advice. Plus, what do you have to lose by driving it and hour or so. Don't drive it to easy.
I'm sure SDS knows what he's talking about, just not sure I know if I'm describing it correctly to him. For ex, what if there's still a bunch of oily mess in the intercooler?

Maybe I should drive it with the cold side intercooler outlet open and see if the turbo blows more oil out of there? Also eliminates the risk of that causing a runaway.
 
  #184  
Old 10-26-2014, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by BryanStein

I've never seen oil on the inside of my cold side turbo inlet.
It was there after sitting overnight. Pulled off the plastic intake and a little puddle on the turbo lip. Figured it wasn't significant since the CCV inlet is right there.
 
  #185  
Old 10-26-2014, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by IHateCommieCars

LOL, that's one way to look at it. I'm the type that looks at it and sees that I took a perfectly fine truck, didn't change the fuel filters, blew out injectors twice, then went cheap in doing the work myself and didn't torque correctly, filled the crankcase with diesel and nearly blew up the engine and my happy ***, with the result that I've now, seemingly, burned out the turbo.

Needless to say, you don't want to ask my political opinions.

But, I did learn from SDS how the leaky turbo seal creates the smoke - by spraying into the hot exhaust pipes. I thought the smoke was coming from cylinder combustion.

Would this explain why my vanes are getting cleaner? Definitely cleaner after the runaways.

I've been looking at the turbo rebuild vids and threads here. Although nothing specifically difficult that I see, it's still probably a pretty ambitious project for me. But, when I see the price difference for a rebuild kit (<$100) vs. buying a turbo, it seems worth the risk. What do you figure the chances are that a klutz like me could pull it off?
SDS knows what he's talking about. As mentioned by Bryanstein he is the best at what he does.

2006 F350 4X4
 
  #186  
Old 10-26-2014, 03:51 PM
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If your that worried about the inter cooler holding oil
pull it out and flush it with some simple green and water.
Once you get it out you may want to drain it into a container
to see just how much was in it then go on to clean it out.
Then put it all back together and go for a 10 mile drive.
Stop and then check the oil level if still the same and you
have not had any problems go 20 more miles and get some
freeway speeds on it. Your after some heat to burn any thing
out of the exhaust system. Keep checking the oil level.


Sean
 
  #187  
Old 10-26-2014, 11:24 PM
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You need to drive it. I just cleaned out a coolant hydrolock tonight. It was an egr cooler catastrophic failure. It takes about 8 miles of 75-80 mph running to clear the exhaust. Look at the exhaust system. There is the equilivent to a "p" trap like under a sink. You have the down pipe,, and the rear axle. Not to mention if you have a muffler n cat in place. They hold a bunch of liquid. You can let it run in the driveway for a week n it will not clear the exhaust. Let it warm up and do a neutral WOT surge. It will smoke then. I understand what you are explaining btw. You can spend a bunch of time trying to clean it,, and still get smoke until you burn it out. I've been there done that. Lol
 
  #188  
Old 10-27-2014, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Super Duty Service
You need to drive it. It takes about 8 miles of 75-80 mph running to clear the exhaust. ... I've been there done that. Lol
YES, you have. Finally found the cajones to take off in my smokebomb. prolly 3 miles to the nearest freeway. I pass a cop and he gives me the stinkeye. By the time I get to the freeway, I'm thinking I've blown this baby, as much as it's smoking. Make one pass of about 2 miles, exit u-turn and come back before it starts showing any progress. But then, it starts thinning out, and before you know it, it's not smoking much at all.

I'm getting a tattoo of your SDS logo on my right butt cheek, right under where I keep my wallet. Thank you so much.

Now, I still got room on the other cheek for the wife and kids if you can help me get it to quit missing. Runs real rough. I'm going to put 20 miles on it it the morning and see if anything clears up, but I don't expect it too.
 
  #189  
Old 10-27-2014, 06:18 AM
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Now that's a literal lol. Gotta give credit to Josh for any tattoo. He designed it. Customers keep asking if I'm gonna get it tattooed on me. Lol.

But good deal on your endeavor. Bummer that it misses. We advertise a deal we call "50 bucks no wrenches". Full IDS scan with printouts. It'd be a good deal for you right now. Congrats on the success.
 
  #190  
Old 10-27-2014, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Super Duty Service
Now that's a literal lol. Gotta give credit to Josh for any tattoo. He designed it. Customers keep asking if I'm gonna get it tattooed on me. Lol.

But good deal on your endeavor. Bummer that it misses. We advertise a deal we call "50 bucks no wrenches". Full IDS scan with printouts. It'd be a good deal for you right now. Congrats on the success.
Yep, exactly what I need. Have you ever used the Forscan app? I think it will do a cylinder contrib test, but not sure about relative compression.

FYI, I took the truck on a long drive this morning. All in all, it did great. Better than it's run in a while. I think it might be hitting on all cylinders, but not sure. It still hesitates and bogs.

I've never been able to test the fuel pressure accurately. The fitting I got leaked badly. However, it did hit more than 50 psi in the few seconds I cranked it, but I've not done any test under load. When I take the secondary filter cap off for my bubble test, the HFCM does fill it up fast.

And, I think bad fuel was my original problem, plus #7 injector is the one I keep having problems with (although it's working now).

Before my runaway issues, I installed a new HFCM and it didn't make any difference, so I returned it and got my money back. Now wondering if that could be the problem since I bog when accelerating.

The other thing that comes to mind just based on the way the engine feels - like it's congested - is that my cat might be clogged up. Would all the oil moving through my exhaust have done that. It looks like I can disconnect my exhaust in front of the cat and drive it. Is that how you determine if it's blocked? Sure looks like it'd be loud. The neighbors won't like that.
 
  #191  
Old 10-27-2014, 04:32 PM
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Teflon tape would seal up the fuel pressure fitting. Not sure how long Teflon will hold up?, but it's what I use during testing.
 
  #192  
Old 10-28-2014, 10:58 AM
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I've been following this thread and it sounds errly familar to when I lost a piston in my motor. The common symptom seems to be injector failure on a low compression cylinder. I changed my #1 injector 3 times in little over a year and replaced all kinds of parts trying to cure the slight miss. Finally did the compression check #1 cylinder and found the cause. The truck ran for a long time (ran okay actually) before finally giving up the ghost.

One other thing to note was the EGR was still intact. The intake manifold was almost completely clogged with crud. Anytime you see smoke out the tailpipe its slowly building up inside the manifold if you haven't deleted the EGR. Could be another problem.

I would take the advice if you haven't done so already and do a compression check. It quickly rules out if you have damaged a cylinder.
 
  #193  
Old 10-28-2014, 12:31 PM
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QUOTE=sully The common symptom seems to be injector failure on a low compression cylinder.

I've not tested the compression on any of my cylinders, so I don't know if we have this in common. however, I did pay the Ford dealer $250 for a comprehensive diagnostic check-up and assumed their IDS would have noted a relative compression problem. They didn't say anything about bad compression, just said to replace #7, upgrade to blue spring, and replace the fuel pump, which I've done.

I know the relative compression test is not as accurate as using the gauge, but it's a whole lot easier. So I may get that done again.


QUOTE=sully EGR. Could be another problem.

Mine has been deleted/blocked.


QUOTE=sully I would do a compression check.

I did pay the Ford dealer $250 for a comprehensive diagnostic check-up and assumed their IDS would have noted a relative compression problem. They didn't say anything about bad compression, just said to replace #7, upgrade to blue spring, and replace the fuel pump, which I've done.

I know the relative compression test is not as accurate as using the gauge, but it's a whole lot easier. So I may get that done again as part of a full IDS scan.

FYI, I rewarded all my advisors here by continuing this discussion under a new, more optimistic headline - (Smile) - My truck's getting better, or something like that.
 
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