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Looking at the print Yahiko posted the link to earlier.
Looks like it takes power to the PKBK (Pink w/black trace) and ground to BK (black).
Maybe someone else can confirm? Usually grounds aren't included in these prints unless they're switched or have some specific function. That looks a little odd they way they have it here but hey do have the ground symbol there at G100.
Many vehicles have a pin in the OBDII plug to power the fuel pump. Couldn't find anything like that on a F250 Diesel. Ford simply says to "command " it on with IDS.
OK. I decided that those few little drops of fuel were residual, so I did a bubble test and everything looked fine. Started it up and got a puff of smoke when it first caught and then nothing while it idled for several minutes. Sounded good, wasn't even running rough, I guess all those cycles of the fuel pump got most of the air out.
But, after 4-5 minutes, I gave it some pedal and it hiccupped out a big cloud of white smoke. So I shut it down quickly.
Checked the dipstick and it hadn't gained any volume. Tried to start it again, and it stumbled badly, seemed to hang up and didn't spin freely, but I only cranked on it a few seconds and it didn't start.
Checked the dipstick again. Then decided to do a bubble test again. When I took the cap and filter off, I found the little notched ring and the oring in the fuel bowl. Not sure if it fell off when I lifted the filter or was already off.
Anyway, I cranked it with the key off and it didn't stumble anymore. So, I've recorded a vid of it cranking and would like some opinions whether it sounds normal or if it sounds like I've dropped a cylinder.
Could the hiccup and smoke be residual fuel in the oil? Or any other cause that doesn't mean my engine is majorly messed up? I'm trying to be overly cautious. If it hadn't runaway from me that time, I would have probably kept running it to see if it would clear up.
Hey, how do these two pieces go back into the fuel bow? I assume the notched ring matches up to the notched ring on the center pole, but where does the oring go? I assume on top of the notched ring. Don't see any mention of this in the Tech folder topic. Is something broken for this to be loose?
I think the parts your looking at may be from the filter.
The ring is cream colored and not black and the O-ring
is not blue but black. Look into the center of the filter
and see it the parts are there. I can post a photo of the
inside of a new filter later. But have a look at one of
Anthony's at SDS videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...PZ0o4bjw#t=144
I set it so that you should jump in and see the top of that stand pipe.
On your video. I think it's OK but lets see what others say.
Sorry, I made them public so you should be able to view now. thanks.
I heard an even crank for about 3 seconds and then just barely a hint of a speed up thereafter. I really can't decide, but find it encouraging. I've heard thdm so bad it aounds like there trying to crank-- on a running truck.
Your batteries are very strong. Disconnect one and do it again. You will get a slower turn that will exacerbate any uneven cranking. If you don't hear it with much weaker batteries, you're good to go.
I heard an even crank for about 3 seconds and then just barely a hint of a speed up thereafter. I really can't decide, but find it encouraging. I've heard thdm so bad it aounds like there trying to crank-- on a running truck.
Your batteries are very strong. Disconnect one and do it again. You will get a slower turn that will exacerbate any uneven cranking. If you don't hear it with much weaker batteries, you're good to go.
You don't want to try that with the FICM relay in place. It will drop
voltage very fast and help the FICM to an early grave,
I heard an even crank for about 3 seconds and then just barely a hint of a speed up thereafter. I really can't decide, but find it encouraging. I've heard thdm so bad it aounds like there trying to crank-- on a running truck.
Your batteries are very strong. Disconnect one and do it again. You will get a slower turn that will exacerbate any uneven cranking. If you don't hear it with much weaker batteries, you're good to go.
You don't want to try that with the FICM relay in place. It will drop
voltage very fast and help the FICM to an early grave,
Sean
Sean, I don't think what you said is true if you are trying to turn it over with the starter wire on the passenger side fender well. It shouldn't have any power to the ficm because the key isn't switched to the on position.
Having said that, I will defer to your judgement because you are far more knowledgeable than I on this platform.
Well, that wasn't good. Definite miss when I do that. What are the possible causes? Could it be something easy like a bad injector or glowplug?
I am now way over head here, but it points to bad compression. You've already verified there is no fuel pouring into the oil from the injectors. I'll let others weigh in and list the potential causes.
If it is bad compression,, then run a manual compression test. However after a runaway n hydrolock repair,, your exhaust is coated with fuel. It's gonna smoke for a while. I'd be firing it up again. I just had a hydrolock yesterday and when the cylinders are washed clean of oil,, the rings don't travel as easy as it should. If its compression,, it's getting tore down anyways,, I'd give her a couple mins running before I condemn the engine.
Sean, I don't think what you said is true if you are trying to turn it over with the starter wire on the passenger side fender well. It shouldn't have any power to the ficm because the key isn't switched to the on position.
Having said that, I will defer to your judgement because you are far more knowledgeable than I on this platform.
It would be OK to do that so long as he was not using the key to crank it.
The comment was made and that was not mentioned as to or not to.
So long as the starter solenoid wire is used and the key is off it would
be safe on the FICM but if not...
10-20-2014, 05:07 PM
