I have set up like in picture.
http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/.../bhh/h5067.jpg
Bolts are ok but that cylinders are frozen. I both that ting from Oreilly but new cylinders are frozen too. Is it possible expand hole in caliper or find somewhere cylinders with smaller diameters? Look tough to access hole in caliper because rubber boots are on way.

 

 

What did you use to lube the rubber bushings that the 'cylinders' slide in?

 

you need to take a drill bit, reamer, or barrel brush and run thru the hole by hand. Just use it to scrape the crud out. Often I spray WD40 or something like that inside the hole and run the reamer in and out and use the fluid as a "wash"... then try the piston with the WD40 or penetrant... after you get it sliding good on the penetrant, then I use antisieze.. sometimes I leave a few drops of the penetrant in with the antisieze to make things slide easier. It has to slide real free before you assemble.

 

Please forgive me if I'm not understanding what your saying. The things you are calling 'cylinders' do not slide on the caliper 'bolts'. The caliper bolts hold the pins solid.
The 'cylinders', when installed, don't slide on the caliper 'bolts'. They do slide inside the rubber boots and the boots are mounted inside the inner 'ears' of the calipers.
It is important to NOT use a petroleum based lubricant where the 'cylinders' slide inside of the rubber boots. A petroleum based lubricant will react with the rubber boots and the boots will swell and "lock" the 'cylinders' inside the rubber boots, preventing the calipers from sliding. The 'cylinders' will appear to be 'frozen'.

If the rubber boots have become contaminated, they can be pried out of the caliper ears and washed out with a strong dish detergent, rinsed, dried, and reinstalled. The 'cylinders' sholud only be lubricated with a silicone lubricant when they are inserted into the rubber boots - never use a grease!

 

I understand that caliper slide at that thing that I call (mathematically properly) cylinders. But with caliper off and pin bolts out I can move "cylinders" only with hitting with hammer. As I understand I should be capable move cylinders, inside of caliper wall, easy with fingers. And many videos and Internet show it. Only difference from videos at Internet is that I have that cylinders and at internet calipers slide at bolt pins.
Of course I use brake grease (silicon grease).

Question? Do you claim that rubber boot is just a big boot that go all way through hole in caliper or it is, as I think, two small boots that stop just in some grove at beginning of caliper hole. As I understand “cylinders” in above picture is properly call sliding pins.

 

Okay, I'm following you correctly. It sounds to me like those rubber boots are swollen (or someone used the wrong parts when they re-manufactured those calipers).

Correct.

Just be sure it is not grease. Caliper grease won't work. The container needs to have the words 'silicone lubricant' on it. The silicone lube goes on the outside of the cylinder so it slides into the rubber boot.
The rubber boot is one piece and it goes through the caliper ear and sticks out on both sides. You can remove the rubber boot by sliding a small screwdrive in between the boot and caliper ear to get it started. (The boot is prolly sticking to the caliper ear and caliper paint.) Just don't let the little screwdrive poke a hole into the rubber boot.

 

Ok there is answer. Will buy new rubber bots and pull out old. And put silicone grease all around. Nice to know that I spend over 20$ for 2 sets of sliding pins and brake bolts for nothing.

 

you better take the rubber boots off and try the cylinders in the bore WITHOUT the rubber first. As I said, the hole can corrode and that will causes the cylinders to drag also.

 

I will definitely clean caliper holes best what I can. Will use battery drill. I have a few power drills but can not run cord as truck is in parking lot of apartments.

 

I have cleaned holes before by wrapping a 60 grit sand paper around a pencil and rotating it in the hole for 10 minutes... Just make sure the piston slides REAL EASY in and out and rotates.... before you install the boot.

 

Did the job but only at driver side right now. Instead of worn inner pad just throw in a partially used pad that is about same thickness like old outer pad. Did pull rubber boots easy. Did clean holes in caliper to some degree. I had 1/2 barrel brush and holes are 3/4. Next time will use 3/4 power brush. It is barrel brush that attach to power drill. I can move sliding pins with finger now. Not easy but need not to big force either. If will need more cleaning in future it is 1 minute job to pull out/ in rubber boots. In my case it was rusted caliper holes. I will keep update this thread in future if something worth post about brakes happen. Did use sil-glide brake paste as "pdqford" recommended.

 

This problem is solved. Did use 3/4 barrel brush and removed enough of rust from caliper holes where rubber boots come in. Will do it every time when replace brake. Robber boots get old and swollen and hence pins do not move freely. Did job properly like before 5 months and everything is good now.