Greetings, I am new to the forum but not Ford trucks! I just purchased a 1988 F150 XLT Lariat 4x4 with the 302 (EFI) and AOD. The truck is in pretty good condition, and I am using it as a work truck (I have a daily driver). There is an oil leak, and I am almost positive it's the oil pan gasket and possibly front main seal. Additionally I am concerned about oil pressure. I'm not sure if this is related to the leak, bearings, clogged pickup screen, or weak pump, but I want to rule out the notoriously inaccurate dash gauge. I purchased an Equus mechanical gauge, and I know where it goes on the engine, but how in the world are you guys removing the OEM switch!??? I am having to practically climb inside the engine bay and once I snake my arm down to old sensor I have no room for the massive wrench (1 1/16 IIRC). I have read some other threads where people have removed the AC compressor and power steering pump to make room, but that just seems ridiculous for simple sensor installation. I am wondering if removing the oil filter would give me the extra room I need, but I am not ready for an oil change. Can the filter be removed without draining the engine? Any other tips or tricks are greatly appreciated!

 

I don't know anything about your sensor, but as far as the oil filter is concerned, you can remove it without doing a full oil change. You'll lose some oil and probably need to replace the filter, but a lot of oil will be sitting in your pan. So you'd just need to top off the oil when you're done. Or just do a full oil change early and call it good. That's probably what I'd do.

 

Yep, take that filter off with no worries. Once it's off just set it with the openings facing up. You can even reuse it since you ain't due to change it, and when you check your oil afterwards I bet you won't even notice a drop in the level.

As for how to get that factory pressure switch out... I used channel locks to grab it since I didn't care if it goobered up the wrench flats.

 

I was not able to remove my sender without the special socket. I tried EVERYTHING and finally gave up and went to town to buy one.

Reusing your oil filter seems sketchy. It's probably ok...but they're cheap...I wouldn't do it.

 

This.

There is sending unit socket that will fit it. I bought mine at autozone or one of those places. Like this:
OEM/Oil pressure switch socket (25254) | | AutoZone.com

If you remove the oil filter it definitely makes room. I removed mine when I was making a t-fitting my gauge. I think I changed oil and filter too though.

 

Thanks y'all. I'm going to grab a socket on my way home from work as a plan B. Plan A is to pull the oil filter and try channel locks. Would you recommend removing the extender "log/tree" and cleaning it? I guess might as well while I'm in there... Some folks use a sealant on the threads. Is that necessary? If so, what do you recommend?

 

Not sure what you mean by extender, my factory unit was screwed right into the engine. When I put the aftermarket sensor on I had to extend it away from the engine with some 1/4" NPT threaded pipe.

Sealant, you can use whatever you like. I just used teflon tape. Whatever you use though, only use enough to prevent leaks. The sensor grounds thru the block and too much sealant can cause high resistance within that path.

EDIT: nevermind, you have a mechanical gauge so I'd just use however much teflon tape you want. What I was saying about grounding thru the block only applies to electric pressure transmitters, but I'll leave it here in case anyone searches for related topics.

 

Thanks dixie460, I figured that's what you meant from reading other threads. I'll probably just wrap the threads once with some teflon tape. Is there a specification I need to torque everything too, or just "goodentight"?

I am going to take pictures throughout the process and do a guide on this thread.

 

I wouldn't go too tight, just snug it up enough so it don't leak.

 

Is there something special about this socket? It looks like a standard deep socket, although for a larger size than most home mechanics would have in their box.

 

They look the same on the outside, but the inside is rounded to fit the switch, intead of being straight up hex. Got this pic online.

 

That makes my mind go click. I wasn't visualizing what the switch actually looked like because I've always been able to use an open end wrench on them. That socket sure would make a nice addition to the toolbox.