1994 F-250 5.8 Gas, 8-Lug Wheel Free Floating Axle (or somethin' lke that Huge Hub.

Grateful for Outline or First Steps, Tips, etc. for R&R of Shoes, and Hardware Kit. Already inspected the shoes and put the wheels back on. My only vehicle right now.

Drum on left side took a whole lot of 3 lb. hammer-ing on a 2" x 3" stick of wood (don't know if hitting the drum direct with hammer is safe?) placed in between the lugs, then on the outer part of drum (not on the outer-most edge of the drum, or right next to the outer-most edge of the drum either, but the stronger outer part of the drum).

Had to rest three times in between hammering (apply PB Blaster twice). Fourth round of hammering broke it loose. Drums would not come off until the second effort on the adjusting star-wheel or whatever it's called, to bring those shoes in away from the drum. Had to take 'em way in, then the drum came of easy.

Can someone tell me how wide my shoes are - 2.5 inches or 3 inches? - for when I order new drums and shoes? Or maybe I can figure that out if I look behind the wheel (wheels are back on for now).

Hydraulic jack is not holding the truck up. Jack stand is holding it up. Hyd. jack is is positioned under the axle (but not touching), as close to wheel as I could get it, which is directly under the mounting straps for shocks, or was it leaf springs?




'94 F-250 5.8 Gas, 8-Lug Wheel

 

if its a sterling rear they will be 3", or measure whats on it

 

I have to take the drum off again to measure it? How do I tell if it's a "sterling rear"? Thx for jumpin' in.

 

All f250, f350 (SRW) and f350 DRW were sterling axles from 87-97

So you have a sterling axle
Semi float SRW trucks used 2.5"(only used from 87-91)
Full float SRW trucks are 3"(available from 92-97)
DRW are 3.5"

 

OK thx, 3" shoes. Does it matter where I start the dis-assembly. I'll be taking pics... top, bottom, left, right and maybe some in-betweens along the way before (and during maybe) I take it apart. Probably go looking for a youtube.com video also. You posted some great pics somewhere on here me thinks - have forgotten already how/where I found them.

Have done older passenger cars before, but this looks more difficult, or maybe it's just that I haven't even looked at drums and shoes for a long time. Did the front calipers, rotor, and pads recently, but didn't put anything on the back of the pads if I was supposed to? Getting some rattling nose when I first start to push the pedal. Is the lack of grease (or whatever it was supposed to be) why I'm getting that rattling now?

 

Just do one side at a time. Leave the other side together as reference

 

Check the shoes before you leave the parts store. There are 4 different shoes on our trucks as opposed to most vehicles that have 4 of the same or 2 primary and 2 secondary shoes. Ive gottenthem boxed wrong several times.
There is a special tool for the holddown springs. I have a straight screwdriver with a notch cut in the tip that works ok

Ebrake cables are cheap. You may want to go ahead and replace them

If you set the park brake it moves the lever out of your way to access the rear holddown spring easier
Check the pivot pin this lever at the anchor pin, they tend to rust and stick.

It is ok to hit the drum directly with a bfh

 

while we're on the subject ... does anyone have an exploded view of the drum brake assembly for this particular application ? i'm not 100% sure i got the assembly sequence right on the upper mounting.