1993 F-350 7.3 IDI No Engine Turnover
#1
1993 F-350 7.3 IDI No Engine Turnover
Replaced everything for gps, injectors, lift pump, lines, gp relay, everything but the gp controller and the truck started, ran and drove without problem. While replacing the GP controller days later,, my wrench hit the engine causing a spark (didn't disconnect battery), and thought oh *****. I disconnected the battery and finished the task. Reconnected battery and excitedly went to start the truck... NOTHING, not even a turnover. I checked all my electrical connections and fuses, everything looked good. I remembered I had an old Audiovox Prestige alarm that was installed on the truck prior to me owning it (never caused me problems). Called the local alarm/audio shop and they came out and disconnected the alarm, only leaving the remote functional for lock/unlock convenience. I try to start and still nothing. I jump the GP relay on the fender and it turned over instantly. Tried to start with the key and still nothing. Tried looking for clutch safety switch but I can't find it. Looked up the part online so I know what it looks like but i can't find it. Only thing on the clutch pedal/linkage is a small relay looking thing that's connected tight. The key turns over but the engine wont crank, the key springs back. All electronics work (window, radio, guages, lights, gps click etc). Before the no crank issue, everything worked flawlessly. What in the world am I missing here?
Any help is greatly appreciated. I didn't have many more hairs to pull.
Truck bio: 1993 Ford F-350 XLT Crew Cab 4x4 Long Bed, 7.3 IDI, 5-speed manual. Truck is stock with Motorcraft replacement parts (always), only mod is no muffler.
Any help is greatly appreciated. I didn't have many more hairs to pull.
Truck bio: 1993 Ford F-350 XLT Crew Cab 4x4 Long Bed, 7.3 IDI, 5-speed manual. Truck is stock with Motorcraft replacement parts (always), only mod is no muffler.
#2
The clutch switch is on the pushrod. Should be for wires/terminals on the connector. The two closer to the firewall are for the starter lockout. Jump those two terminals, that will bypass the switch. You should also have 12V at one of those two terminals when you turn the key to START. If you do, then the problem is the wire between that switch and the relay (that's the starter relay on the fender, by the way, not the glow plug relay). If you don't get voltage there, then the problem is "upstream" - ignition switch, wiring from the clutch to the ignition switch, or the fuse that energizes that circuit.
#3
The clutch switch is on the pushrod. Should be for wires/terminals on the connector. The two closer to the firewall are for the starter lockout. Jump those two terminals, that will bypass the switch. You should also have 12V at one of those two terminals when you turn the key to START. If you do, then the problem is the wire between that switch and the relay (that's the starter relay on the fender, by the way, not the glow plug relay). If you don't get voltage there, then the problem is "upstream" - ignition switch, wiring from the clutch to the ignition switch, or the fuse that energizes that circuit.
#5
By jumping, basically put a wire or paperclip into the two terminals for the two red/blue wires, correct? Sorry for my ignorance, just don't want to cause more problems than necessary.
#7
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#8
I'm starting to thing something with the alarm system is hindering the ignition. Think I'll have him come out and take it out altogether.
#9
Okay, next test is at the relay. There's one small terminal, with a single wire going to it. That's the feed from the ignition switch / clutch switch. Leave the jumper in if you have it, and check for voltage at that small wire at the relay while an assistant turns the key to START. If you get voltage there, and if it cranks by bypassing the relay, then the relay is the bad guy.
Another test you could try is to run a jumper wire from the battery + to that small terminal on the relay. PUT IT IN NEUTRAL for this. If it cranks, then the relay is good, and there's still something going on between the clutch switch and the relay. If it doesn't crank, that would confirm a bad relay.
Another test you could try is to run a jumper wire from the battery + to that small terminal on the relay. PUT IT IN NEUTRAL for this. If it cranks, then the relay is good, and there's still something going on between the clutch switch and the relay. If it doesn't crank, that would confirm a bad relay.
#10
Okay, next test is at the relay. There's one small terminal, with a single wire going to it. That's the feed from the ignition switch / clutch switch. Leave the jumper in if you have it, and check for voltage at that small wire at the relay while an assistant turns the key to START. If you get voltage there, and if it cranks by bypassing the relay, then the relay is the bad guy.
Another test you could try is to run a jumper wire from the battery + to that small terminal on the relay. PUT IT IN NEUTRAL for this. If it cranks, then the relay is good, and there's still something going on between the clutch switch and the relay. If it doesn't crank, that would confirm a bad relay.
Another test you could try is to run a jumper wire from the battery + to that small terminal on the relay. PUT IT IN NEUTRAL for this. If it cranks, then the relay is good, and there's still something going on between the clutch switch and the relay. If it doesn't crank, that would confirm a bad relay.
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