Thought id introduce myself, have been lurking for a long time during my search for my next truck and i finally found one today. it needs some work but it seems solid enough for the driving i do.

Its not my first ford though its my first pickup. had some foxbodies and a 81 bronco. lots of friends have had Dents

I was told its a 72 but the grille is obviously from a 71. I dont know much about the trucks history . but ill start searching some numbers tomorrow when i get some more light outside




Truck has power steering/power brakes, though the brakes are very touchy and id like to find out why. theres a little play on the pedal and then its very sensitive. they stop very well though

PO says it has new wheel cylinders/ proportioning valve and the drums were turned. but i wont know till i pull them apart. ive done some searching on here, but havent found any answers. any ideas?

As for the motor it has a 302 from an explorer with the gt40p heads. though ill also run the numbers on these aswell. but if i recall the sparkplugs were at an odd angle opposed to other 302 heads

i think thats enough rambling for now. im just glad ive got a pretty solid truck that seems to run smooth and strong.

 

Nice truck.

Aside from the angle (or, not as much angle) of the spark plugs, you can also identify the GT40P heads by looking for 4 bars cast into the ends.

GT40P (4 bar) heads I got from an Explorer 5.0L engine in the local wrecking yard.



GT40 heads will have 3 bars cast into them.

 

Nice truck!

 

thanks for the tip, it'll help me sort that out easily. alot of things i need to look into on this truck, before i really know what i have

 

After getting the truck home last night it was spewing some coolant, it was dark and i thought maybe water pump which is simple enough. but I let it get back up to operating temperature today and was glad to see some cracks in the a hose from somebody over tightening hose clamps , no more leaks

So the motor is infact from an explorer with P-heads.

The truck is a 72 made in Canada and originally had a 360 in it

Gas gauge is a little wonky showing about 1/4 tank and its got a full tank. so i guess ill try and test the gauge and pull sending unit if need be

Anybody have any ideas on the super sensitive brakes?

 

tested the Fuel Gauge and sending unit both were good. although half the float was rotted away. so i got that sorted out

while i had the seat out i did some tweaking with the springs since the passenger side was sagging. got the springs back where they need to be and secured in place. im glad since the seat is in good condition aside from 1 tear and matches the panels/paint

 

Super sensitive brakes? I'd say that's okay... you'll get used to it. Better than lazy brakes!!!!

Nice patina. Leave her be. Ya might want to insulate the roof and roof rails (from the inside of course) to stave off the dreaded roof rail rust. It is caused by water condensing on the underside of the roof and then making its way to the sides or front when enough beads accumulate. Think of a cold beer on a cool day.

One day I wondered why my headliner started warping all to heck. I dropped it down to see BIG water droplets collecting on the ceiling.

 

thanks, any tips on insulating the roof/rails?

 

Think this this would work? Rustoleum Leak Seal

 

The '67-'72 F-100s didn't come with factory disc brakes so, I'm guessing the front discs were added from a '73-'79 model F-100/'75-'79 F-150. The booster is likely either a single diaphragm unit from a Ford Dentside truck or could be a Dentside dual-diaphragm booster from an F-350.

The master cylinder could be from most anything. The bore size of it can make the brake application very sensitive --especially depending on what booster type it's bolted to.

A small bore MC (15/16" diameter for example) will have a lot of output pressure but will cause a longer brake pedal travel than a larger bore MC. The small bore can also make the pedal feel a little mushy at the top of its stroke. A small bore MC can also make the brakes very sensitive when used with a booster.

A larger bore MC [1.00", 1-1/16", 1-1/8", 1-1/4"] will have less output pressure (less as the diameters increase), give a more firm pedal feel and have less pedal travel, compared to a smaller bore MC. A MC with a bore diameter that's too large, however, will result in a rock hard brake pedal with low output pressure that will make it difficult to bring the vehicle to a stop and require a lot of leg force on the brake pedal.

The MC bore size will be a compromise between pressure output, pedal feel, application effectiveness and comfort to the drivers application of force on the brake pedal.

 

thanks for the information, i dont think i mentioned disc brakes unless theres a typo. but it does have drums all around. ill take a look into the Master cylinder and booster. see if they were scavenged off other vehicles

 

If the brakes are boosted drums, the MC bore diameter, if too small, could easily make the brakes really sensitive. Drums are self-energizing (pull themselves into the drums). Disc brakes are not self-energizing. This is why discs are easier to modulate the brake force on than drums.

 

In principle, think if household insulation. The fibrous layers slows down or prevents warm air from contacting cold surfaces (or vice versa). I used leftover John Mansville household insulation stuffed into the sides and forward header that can still be pulled out. For the large field, I glued this to the underside of the roof panel: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/th...FU9afgodfnQA8Q

Nope... that's a sealer and has very little, if any, R-value.

 

thanks for the tips HIO, ill look into that when i get a chance to pull the headliner out. i need to see what condition the roof is in anyways

and for some reason i forgot to throw up a picture of the interior. its not perfect but its better than alot of the trucks ive looked at. matches exterior paint and door panels are in great condition

need to do something better for those aftermarket oil/water temp gauges and fill the stereo hole

 

some updates and a few questions

Got the truck tagged and insured yesterday after work, and i love driving it. great to be in a fullsize pickup aswell as behind a v8

this past week ive replaced the sending unit float and heater core/coolant hoses

also received door lock cylinders in the mail. but im having enough trouble removing the old ones that im not sure i want to continue and end up not being able to get the new ones back in. ive searched google and the forum and have found no help

(i ordered ignition/door lock set, because ignition key doesnt match door locks. and i have no keys for the door locks)

good news is i have located a dentside rear bumper on craigslist that i hope to get tomorrow, ill still have to buy or make brackets to hang it but ill be glad to have a bumper