hello guys.....Im just wondering if this is a common occurrence with Expeditions.

Couple of weeks ago I was coming home from camping and the engine light came on. Put the code reader and it said misfiring cylinder 5 (easiest to change) so I went ahead and changed two days ago....today I took the truck to work cause we are planning to go camping this weekend again and wanted to tested it....well on my home I see the engine light come on again and this time was cylinder 7 (pain to change) so after changing it went around the block and I put the reader and even though no light came one yet it gave me error misfiring cylinder 6 this time!....is this a common occurrence......do you think this is more than just misfiring cylinders?

Also....would it hurt the engine if I decide to pull the camper if I get a misfire cylinder error?

Thanks for the assistance

1999 Ford Expedition Triton Engine

 

Do you have the 4.6 or the 5.4 engine?

A misfire causes unburnt fuel to get into the exhaust and the catalytic converters. That raw fuel will destroy the cats very quickly. Therefore, running an engine with a misfire is bad enough, but putting a load on it like with pulling a camper will only accelerate the damage.

 

Thanks for the info.

I have the 5.4 L engine.

I guess my corcern (not being a mechanic of course) is if there is something else going on....are they really misfiring one by one right after changing one?...is that just mere coincidence?....is there something going on in that bank (since now it will be the 3rd one in the second bank).....or its just as simple as the coils and boots need replacing?

I guess my question about driving it with the engine light on is....for example...this camping area for this weekend is only 45 min away....what if i get the light again 30 min into the drive...can i continue or would i need to get off the next next exit because it could completely damage my engine...

Thanks again for the help

 

I'm sure it's just a matter of the boots failing on the COPs. They are all the same age so it stands to reason they can fail due to heat within a short amount of time of each other. As for the driving, I think you'll be okay as long as the CEL isn't flashing. When it flashes that indicates a sever misfire that needs immediate attention.

 

Thanks Alloro...im just hoping number 8 doesnt missfire next (being the last one in that bank that i didnt replace)...i had a hell of a time changing 7 that i dont know how long it will take me to do it. Now i understand the many complaints i read about this engine set up!

Thanks a lot for the help

 

You said you pulled a code. Where there others besides the basic cylinder misfire codes? P0301-308?

 

Every code i got was a misfire cylinder code....first 5 then 7 and yesterday 6....i was able to make it to the campsite without any codes...crossing my fingers #8 doesnt misfire.....now my problem is i found out the truck is leaking coolant and it is dropping right in the front..im thinking is from the radiator...dont know how much it will cost me to replace it....but it looks like it may have some rot....

 

If it is the radiator or lower hose, just remember, the factory used a different fitting on the hose to radiator connect, not a SS hose clamp or snap clamp.
It's a pain to remove. I had to cut mine off with aviation snips.
Check it before starting the job, especially at a campsite.

Any chance you jimmied the fuel rail when changing out the COP's?
I know it had to partially disconnect the fuel rail to access #8.
Strange to get so many codes on one bank randomly.

 

There is a weep hole under the water pump shaft. When the internal shaft seal wears that weep hole is the first place coolant will leak out of. It helps to use a mirror and look under the water pump for that hole. If you see any coolant or dried coolant tracks, then that is your leak source.

 

Thank you guys for the inputs.

I just read your replies as i was not able to get to me phone....yesterday i went to the store and bought a radiator leak stopper liquid that said it contained liquid aluminum...im not seeing any drips right now but I may have just caused other issues...somebody at the campsite said that sometimes those products also clog the heat core...but its too late now....if it did stop it I am assumng is just a temporary fix....i will def look under the water pump first...i looked around and the actual radiator doesnt seem to cost too much but the actual job may not be as easy specially for an untrained person like me

 

Sometimes those stop leak products work but just remember the old saying "there's no free lunch."

You might get home okay but it really needs to be fixed right. I would also keep a close eye on your operating water temp. These products, iif over used, can plug up your passages and create an overheated engine.

Good luck getting home.

 

Update.....
well after driving the car yesterday afternoon I realized the radiator was still leaking...what I had not notice until yesterday is that the coolant was actually coming out of the cap of the radiator reservoir.....i was a little concerned but not too much....here comes the fun part....as soon as I got on the highway with the camper and the family i noticed the heat gauge going to the H...probably 10 miles into the drive the reservoir coolant boiled and got so hot the gauge went to the H and the overheating light came on.....the coolant was pouring out of the reservoir......eventually we made it home driving a little at the time....now here are my questions....(let me know if it is better to start a new thread) ....since this symptoms were going on before the i poured the leak stopper I am going to assume this was not the cause of the problem....

1. Searching on Google I see that the boiling of the coolant can be a blown head gasket...which it would be really bad news...

-can it be a head gasket when it only gets to the overheating part when I am towing?....I did a 30 min drive without towing and did not notice the temp rising

-I always thought a head gasket issue would show white residue on the oil stick or in the inside of the oil cap?

Thank you again for any info you can give me.

 

It can also be due to the serpentine belt slipping. This is more common in hot weather and even more likely to happen if the A/C is on.

 

Go back and refer to my post #11 about watching the coolant and temp gauge CLOSELY. And...
TOO much stop leak can block coolant passages and create more overheating.

Heat usually causes a blown head gasket in gas engines, not the other way around.

Getting it that hot may have created alot more issues then just a simple radiator replacement now.