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Every system is failing - Dealer says PCM

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Old 08-20-2014, 10:46 AM
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Every system is failing - Dealer says PCM

About 3 weeks ago now I go to hop in my 2014 F250 (only 10,000 milles) and and I get on screen errors that the Engine is overheating, oil pressure is low, system ignition system has failed, failure of breaking system and decent control system has failed.
I get the truck towed in and after looking at everything the dealer determines that it is a PCM failure. That part takes almost 2 weeks to arrive, they install all it do all their testing and say the truck is good to go. Four days later and the truck is back at the dealer for the exact same thing.

Both times this has happened the truck was sitting idle for hours. About 14 the first time and about 3 the second.

Has anybody else out there experienced anything similar and if so, did you ever find a root cause for the issue. Right now my dealer and Ford are both scratching their collective heads
 
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Old 08-20-2014, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Dbolding
About 3 weeks ago now I go to hop in my 2014 F250 (only 10,000 milles) and and I get on screen errors that the Engine is overheating, oil pressure is low, system ignition system has failed, failure of breaking system and decent control system has failed.
I get the truck towed in and after looking at everything the dealer determines that it is a PCM failure. That part takes almost 2 weeks to arrive, they install all it do all their testing and say the truck is good to go. Four days later and the truck is back at the dealer for the exact same thing.

Both times this has happened the truck was sitting idle for hours. About 14 the first time and about 3 the second.

Has anybody else out there experienced anything similar and if so, did you ever find a root cause for the issue. Right now my dealer and Ford are both scratching their collective heads
Hi Dbolding,

I want to escalate this to your regional customer service manager so they can help. To get the ball rolling, PM me your full name, best daytime phone number, VIN, current mileage, and servicing dealership. I'll take it from there.

Crystal
 
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Old 08-20-2014, 01:00 PM
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I am unable to send a PM. I did send a friend request
My email is dbolding@gmail.com
 
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Old 08-20-2014, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Dbolding
I am unable to send a PM. I did send a friend request
My email is dbolding@gmail.com
keep us posted.....ford service has staff pulling these issues off the various forums to reduce public awareness of current production problems.

keep the pressure on them and keep this in public light.
 
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Old 08-20-2014, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Dbolding
I am unable to send a PM. I did send a friend request
My email is dbolding@gmail.com
Hi Dbolding,

I don't have the ability to communicate with folks via email, so your best bet will be to contact our Customer Relationship Center at 1-800-392-3673. Give them a call and they'll be happy to help.

Crystal
 
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Old 08-21-2014, 12:41 PM
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After my truck sat at the dealership Tuesday, Wednesday and this morning I went and picked it up. They are saying that they can't find the cause.

I also just got off the phone with the Regional Customer Support Manager and there were two things that she said.
1. The engineers at Ford think it could be a low battery
2. Everything seems to be working as designed.

I informed her that a low battery should not cause the truck to tell me that it is overheating, has low oil, the braking system is failing and that the decent control is at fault. I also let her know that if Ford believes that is working as designed, I can now understand why I am having quality issues with my truck
 
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Old 08-21-2014, 09:18 PM
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Not to defend auto makers and this may not be the problem, but I know a low battery can cause fault codes. I had a dozen codes show up in my suburban when scanned even though there were no lights on the dash. Independent mechanic said if solenoids and other PCMs don't get full voltage or amps, don't remember which, they cause the computers to read wrong inputs.
 
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Old 08-22-2014, 04:04 AM
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A low battery can wreak havoc with a newer vehicle. Did you just say you had your truck idling for 14hours? Then 3 hours? It is a know. Fact that the charging sys outs out very little amperage to charge a battery at idle and ideally 1800-2200rpms gets the juice flowing. With everything and I mean everything being electronic on vehicles these days they might be spot on. Get yourself a cheap multimeter. Keep it in the truck. Do what you do and when the symptom arises pop the hood and check voltage. A fully charged battery should be at least mid 12 volts.
 
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Old 08-22-2014, 04:49 AM
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It's more than a cheap DMM but a ScanguageII is a useful tool.
I know for a fact that with a drop in voltage many odd things
will show up as codes. There is a lot of things that use the Vref
to power a gives set of sensors and it that voltage is off by too
much your going to see all types of crazy things.

If you must idle for extended times you might look into a
replacement alternator pulley to spin it faster at idle.


Sean
 
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Old 08-22-2014, 06:38 AM
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With anything weird nowadays start with the battery.

Load test each independently and disconnected from the truck.

Don't depend upon a simple test in the truck with it running.
 
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Old 08-22-2014, 07:51 AM
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Could a lot be a loose or bad ground. I would check the ground cable just for giggles.
 
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Old 08-22-2014, 03:11 PM
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Time for the good old Voltage Drop Test,


Sean
 
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Old 08-22-2014, 08:15 PM
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Sitting idle not idleing. I drove home parked in the driveway and did not go back out until the next day, that was the first one.
Originally Posted by 05F250DSL
A low battery can wreak havoc with a newer vehicle. Did you just say you had your truck idling for 14hours? Then 3 hours? It is a know. Fact that the charging sys outs out very little amperage to charge a battery at idle and ideally 1800-2200rpms gets the juice flowing. With everything and I mean everything being electronic on vehicles these days they might be spot on. Get yourself a cheap multimeter. Keep it in the truck. Do what you do and when the symptom arises pop the hood and check voltage. A fully charged battery should be at least mid 12 volts.
 
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Old 08-22-2014, 08:20 PM
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From all the responses, it appears that the real problem may be that I grew accustomed to the quality of the Toyotas that I have been driving for the past 14 years. I had to replace batteries but this type of thing was never a problem
 
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Old 08-22-2014, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Dbolding
From all the responses, it appears that the real problem may be that I grew accustomed to the quality of the Toyotas that I have been driving for the past 14 years. I had to replace batteries but this type of thing was never a problem
All the Toyotas in the past 14 years didn't have the electronics of today. Get a new Toyota, put low batteries in it and watch it go bat s***crazy like the rest of them.
 


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