Im changing the spark plugs in my '01 5.4 and I tried using my 1/2 drive torque wrench to torque plugs to 28 lbs but with all the extensions and u joint its not working too well the torque wrench is a little big to get in there. I bought a 3/8 drive but its in inch pounds and has preset numbers so I cant get it to 28 ft lbs closest I can get with the 3/8 drive is 20 ft lbs. How is everyone torquing the plugs down?

 

28 lbs is too high in my humble opinion. When I changed the plugs on my truck, and it's been a few years, I used a 3/8 click-type torque wrench set at 12 ft lbs, which should feel "hand tight" if you were using a standard ratchet. If I recall correctly, I was able to torque cylinder #8 straight on without a swivel - just an extension. It took some finessing, but I got it done. It was cylinder #4 that was a bear due to the heater core lines and required a swivel and different length extensions. I'm pretty sure using a swivel and extensions changes the torque curve (applies less??? - someone can chime in), but if you set that plug to hand tight, I'm confident to say you should be just fine. I've put 50k on my truck since I did all this w/o any issues.

 

14 to 16 ft lbs is about right and X12 gets you in lbs

 

I pulled out spark plug #5 and it came out fine but I cant get the new spark plug to start in the hole. I got out my inspection scope and looked in the hole and it looks like there is a ring at the top of the hole almost like a washer. Are the threads messed up or has that hole been repair once and I have to get the spark plug in there just right?

 

I don't recall a washer looking ring, however, to help aid in threading in the plug, I used a 6" (or so) section of rubber fuel line (3/8 or 5/8 diameter) which allowed me to thread the plug by hand. Once the threads grab the plug, you can simply remove the line and finish the rest with the torque wrench.

 

the spec is 13 ft lb.