I don't have duraspark.

I've been real busy with this fair/Mud bog/truck pull/ duck dynasty people visit.

 

Well, are you going to have a feedback carb on your new engine?

 

And I don't have a drawing for the TFI ignition. But, that really doesn't make any difference as you were asking about the feedback carb, not the ignition. I just threw that in to show you where the one wire is coming from.

 

No I will be putting a 4brl and my all in one dizzy will take care of all of that, so thank you. I did need the diagram to cut all the wires

 

You just need to strip the oil and water sender out of the engine harness.
Then remove the computer and ignition/carb wiring.

That much, is just like a DSII swap.

 

Neither of those gauges work lol
I have a mechanical temp gauge and I'm slowly getting a full set of gauges.

I will keep them seperate and maybe new ones will work or there is a broken cable or something.

And then just remove the rest correct?

 

I'm pretty sure, but I am not under the hood of your truck.

You are going to want to use the ignition hot to trigger a relay and a 10Ga. wire from battery+ to your new HEI style dizzy.
At least most of them call for 10Ga. primary wire....

 

I think it is 10ga.
It comes with a booklet of instructions and a break in process and a few other fancy things

And okay but that's pretty much the just of it and I'll look at the ds2 swap and see what will it says.

Finally after two days I get back to my truck

 

KsCop's 300 DUI swap is documented somewhere in the stickies.

It's going to be closer to what you need.

 

Okay thanks!

 

Late night thought.
My dyno was in a 1 to 1 gear.
I have 33" tires, not stock height.
Would that mean I made more hp?

 

I've mostly run motorcycles on a dyno.
Eddy current or inertia style dyno's are only observing power applied to the roller. "Rear wheel horsepower".

Gearing and drivetrain correction factors are noted by the operator.
None of this matters because in the end it is how much force or acceleration you (your truck) can actually get to the ground.

 

Due to this, rwhp/rwtq is the best measure of what your vehicle can actually do. I obsess over torque, because torque applied at the right time is what makes the difference in anything. Torque tows, launches, slings you out of corners, climbs, etc. horsepower is, to me, just top end. Most of the racing I like requires torque based throttle response. That being said, you can drive anything well with enough practice.

 

So, is strapping the rear of a vehicle down to the rollers realistic?
We all know how easy it is to break the rear loose given enough torque.

Why aren't you driving an electric vehicle where almost all torque is available from a standstill?

 

Wouldn't some "strapping down" be required in order to approximate the traction of rubber on pavement? I wouldn't think the small steel rollers of the dyno can provide the same traction as a flat patch of asphalt or concrete.