Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Diesel > 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van SPONSORED BY:

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #16  
Old 08-09-2014, 04:10 PM
Bullitt390's Avatar
Bullitt390 Bullitt390 is offline
Certified Thread Hijacker
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 11,966
Bullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud of
joshjones.thewelder
Quote:
Originally Posted by samsdad02 View Post
it does briefly, while it's warming up (driving). after it gets close to operating temps, they may flucuate to the same voltage. I question the scangage because it will occisionally be that the flp is HIGHER than voltage, by maybe up to .5v. don't know how that can be.
Something to keep in mind:

The voltage at the OBD port is roughly .2-.4 volts LESS than what is seen at the battery terminals.

Also the PCM only reports the FICM voltages in increments of .5.


So, you might see 12.4 volts at the OBD port and only see 12.0 reported for FICM Low.

With the FICM wiring being a marginally shorter run than all the way into the cabin etc, it's entirely possible to have higher voltage reported at the FICM than at the port. And techinally both will show slightly less voltage than a reading taken directly at the Postive terminal of the battery.

I would visually look over all 3 FICM plugs, corrosion of the FICM relay and corrosion of the PCM plugs. Also, visually check the harness as it runs over and around the valve cover and valve cover/ intake bolts.

Josh
__________________


2006 F250 XLT 6.0 PowerStroke Diesel 4X4: SRL Custom Tune Atlas 40 FICM Rotella 0W40 DASHBOSS Ford VCM II IDS Custom Y-Pipe Fabrication
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 08-09-2014, 04:14 PM
npccpartsman's Avatar
npccpartsman npccpartsman is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Ft. Smith, Ark.
Posts: 13,552
npccpartsman has a spectacular reputation.npccpartsman has a spectacular reputation.npccpartsman has a spectacular reputation.npccpartsman has a spectacular reputation.npccpartsman has a spectacular reputation.npccpartsman has a spectacular reputation.npccpartsman has a spectacular reputation.npccpartsman has a spectacular reputation.npccpartsman has a spectacular reputation.npccpartsman has a spectacular reputation.npccpartsman has a spectacular reputation.
Another thing to consider is that the SG2 is slow in reporting so you might be getting old readings at times when they're farthest apart, if that makes sense. I know on AE the voltages on my truck change fairly fast and very often compared to SG2.
__________________
FederalOwnershipRespectfullyDeclined

Rest in peace Mojo. My friend and faithful companion you shall ever be.

Tim
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 08-09-2014, 06:10 PM
Rusty Axlerod's Avatar
Rusty Axlerod Rusty Axlerod is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Enterprise, Alabama
Posts: 5,087
Rusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant future
I've read through this thread twice and I'm still puzzled. The original question was "how can FLP drop to 12.5v and FMP stay at 48v ?" First off FLP is FICM logic power (not low). Logic power is internally regulated and cleaned up in the logic side of the FICM. As long as it's above 12v (maybe even 5 or 6v, I don't know it's operating voltage) everything is kosher. FLP is also independent from FMP which is the output of the power side of FICM, the current supply for that side of the FICM is represented by the FVP PID.

The orange wait to start spring light on the dash doesn't represent when the glow plugs are on. It's simply a "wait to start" indicator and even at 60 something degrees the glow plugs will often be on for several seconds after the engine starts. This is a big load and significantly drops system voltage. Ford specifies the voltage can drop as low as 9.5v and not be a problem, although it could indicate a bad alt or weak batteries if it happens in warmer temps. This is consistent with what you are describing on the 10.5v after start.

Measuring voltage at the lower alt output lug isn't necessarily a good test. Unlike the upper unit which is internally regulated, the lower one while also internally regulated is controlled by the PCM. It ramps up when the upper unit is struggling in an attempt to maintain system voltage and kinda loafs along when not needed.

I explained in an earlier post how the measured voltage can be different at different points in a circuit. If there is a constant and significant difference ( say 1v or more) between bat voltage and the PID for FVP maybe there's is an issue. I'd check my ScanGauge codes for both to start with. If they're ok your back to the voltage drop test.
__________________
"Thinkin ain't knowin"
2006, King Ranch, F250, Lariat, Super Duty, Powerstroke, FX4, CC, SRW, 20in Ultra Motorsports Goliath wheels. 2in leveling kit, Husky 16K roller hitch, ScanGaugeII. Sinister coolant filter. Blue spring. BPD EGR cooler. Riffraff CAC boots w/metal cold side tube, STC update. Fumoto valves. Rotella ELC. DashBoss. '08 Mirrors. Mishimoto Rad and 200° stat.

Last edited by Rusty Axlerod; 08-09-2014 at 06:22 PM. Reason: Add
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 08-09-2014, 06:27 PM
Bullitt390's Avatar
Bullitt390 Bullitt390 is offline
Certified Thread Hijacker
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 11,966
Bullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud of
joshjones.thewelder
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod View Post
Unlike the upper unit which is internally regulated, the lower one while also internally regulated is controlled by the PCM. It ramps up when the upper unit is struggling in an attempt to maintain system voltage and kinda loafs along when not needed.
Both alternators are PCM controlled in the dual alt set-up. Even though they are designated as primary and Secondary, the PCM will switch back forth between each one and sometimes choosing both to operate as a team.

Hence why you cannot just remove the lower alternator and drive along *****-nilly, according to the Q91 Operations PDF there is cutting and splicing needed to make sure the upper alternator remains charging at all times.

Josh
__________________


2006 F250 XLT 6.0 PowerStroke Diesel 4X4: SRL Custom Tune Atlas 40 FICM Rotella 0W40 DASHBOSS Ford VCM II IDS Custom Y-Pipe Fabrication
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 08-09-2014, 07:03 PM
Rusty Axlerod's Avatar
Rusty Axlerod Rusty Axlerod is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Enterprise, Alabama
Posts: 5,087
Rusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant future
Also just to discuss splicing battery cables. Things may have changed but when we were taught electrical "theory" they made it clear it was just that. Theory. No one had witnessed an electron traveling through a circuit, but examples could be demonstrated to support the various laws governing the behavior of an electron. One of these ideas is that electrons in a DC circuit travel near the surface of the conductor. In an AC circuit current flows easily through the interior of the conductors. That's one of the reasons why a home is wired with mostly solid copper conductors and vehicle charging systems are wired with braided wire. The braided conductor has much more surface area and can therefore carry a higher amp load. When you splice a braided wire it makes a choke point with significantly less surface area even if the splice is installed perfectly. A properly installed and insulated splice in a battery cable can last a long time IF the vehicle always starts normally, but if the starter fails and causes a huge amperage draw or there are engine problems with extended cranking, the splice will be the first place to overheat and fail. I would not recommend splicing a battery cable unless it's a temporary repair.
__________________
"Thinkin ain't knowin"
2006, King Ranch, F250, Lariat, Super Duty, Powerstroke, FX4, CC, SRW, 20in Ultra Motorsports Goliath wheels. 2in leveling kit, Husky 16K roller hitch, ScanGaugeII. Sinister coolant filter. Blue spring. BPD EGR cooler. Riffraff CAC boots w/metal cold side tube, STC update. Fumoto valves. Rotella ELC. DashBoss. '08 Mirrors. Mishimoto Rad and 200° stat.
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 08-09-2014, 07:31 PM
bismic's Avatar
bismic bismic is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 14,312
bismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputation
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt390 View Post
Both alternators are PCM controlled in the dual alt set-up. Even though they are designated as primary and Secondary, the PCM will switch back forth between each one and sometimes choosing both to operate as a team.

Hence why you cannot just remove the lower alternator and drive along *****-nilly, according to the Q91 Operations PDF there is cutting and splicing needed to make sure the upper alternator remains charging at all times.

Josh
The WSM (Workshop Manual) states that the PCM monitors both generators to determine the output of each unit. It also states that the PCM controls the lower generator by turning it off when the glow plug system is commanded on. As soon as the glow plug system stops cycling, the PCM powers up the lower generator (to avoid damage to the glow plugs from excessive voltage).

It continues by stating that the generators operate independently of each other and that "The control is through the internal voltage regulators".

Based on the above, it seems to me that only the lower one is controlled and that the control is only on/off.

I realize that the WSM has been shown to have some mistakes. I wonder if this section (414-00-2) is accurate?

If it is, it would seem to me that it is possible that one of the alternators might have a bad voltage regulator.
__________________
Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower250A;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD BilletWaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 08-09-2014, 07:33 PM
Rusty Axlerod's Avatar
Rusty Axlerod Rusty Axlerod is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Enterprise, Alabama
Posts: 5,087
Rusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant future
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt390 View Post
Both alternators are PCM controlled in the dual alt set-up. Even though they are designated as primary and Secondary, the PCM will switch back forth between each one and sometimes choosing both to operate as a team.
Hence why you cannot just remove the lower alternator and drive along *****-nilly, according to the Q91 Operations PDF there is cutting and splicing needed to make sure the upper alternator remains charging at all times.

Josh
I agree Josh, I was shooting for a short and simple explanation of why checking voltage at the output lug isn't a good test (to determine if the alt is good or bad) . Guess I over did it.

Do you see an issue with the op's truck?
__________________
"Thinkin ain't knowin"
2006, King Ranch, F250, Lariat, Super Duty, Powerstroke, FX4, CC, SRW, 20in Ultra Motorsports Goliath wheels. 2in leveling kit, Husky 16K roller hitch, ScanGaugeII. Sinister coolant filter. Blue spring. BPD EGR cooler. Riffraff CAC boots w/metal cold side tube, STC update. Fumoto valves. Rotella ELC. DashBoss. '08 Mirrors. Mishimoto Rad and 200° stat.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 08-09-2014, 07:53 PM
Bullitt390's Avatar
Bullitt390 Bullitt390 is offline
Certified Thread Hijacker
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 11,966
Bullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud ofBullitt390 has much to be proud of
joshjones.thewelder
Quote:
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
The WSM (Workshop Manual) states that the PCM monitors both generators to determine the output of each unit. It also states that the PCM controls the lower generator by turning it off when the glow plug system is commanded on. As soon as the glow plug system stops cycling, the PCM powers up the lower generator (to avoid damage to the glow plugs from excessive voltage).

It continues by stating that the generators operate independently of each other and that "The control is through the internal voltage regulators".

Based on the above, it seems to me that only the lower one is controlled and that the control is only on/off.

I realize that the WSM has been shown to have some mistakes. I wonder if this section (414-00-2) is accurate?

If it is, it would seem to me that it is possible that one of the alternators might have a bad voltage regulator.

I would tend to think that, as most dual alternator systems run 100%, it's up to each alternator to keep it's own voltage in check.

But looking over this:

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q91.pdf

Seems to say otherwise.

Josh
__________________


2006 F250 XLT 6.0 PowerStroke Diesel 4X4: SRL Custom Tune Atlas 40 FICM Rotella 0W40 DASHBOSS Ford VCM II IDS Custom Y-Pipe Fabrication
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 08-10-2014, 07:01 AM
samsdad02 samsdad02 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 392
samsdad02 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod View Post
I've read through this thread twice and I'm still puzzled. The original question was "how can FLP drop to 12.5v and FMP stay at 48v ?" First off FLP is FICM logic power (not low). Logic power is internally regulated and cleaned up in the logic side of the FICM. As long as it's above 12v (maybe even 5 or 6v, I don't know it's operating voltage) everything is kosher. FLP is also independent from FMP which is the output of the power side of FICM, the current supply for that side of the FICM is represented by the FVP PID.

The orange wait to start spring light on the dash doesn't represent when the glow plugs are on. It's simply a "wait to start" indicator and even at 60 something degrees the glow plugs will often be on for several seconds after the engine starts. This is a big load and significantly drops system voltage. Ford specifies the voltage can drop as low as 9.5v and not be a problem, although it could indicate a bad alt or weak batteries if it happens in warmer temps. This is consistent with what you are describing on the 10.5v after start.

Measuring voltage at the lower alt output lug isn't necessarily a good test. Unlike the upper unit which is internally regulated, the lower one while also internally regulated is controlled by the PCM. It ramps up when the upper unit is struggling in an attempt to maintain system voltage and kinda loafs along when not needed.

I explained in an earlier post how the measured voltage can be different at different points in a circuit. If there is a constant and significant difference ( say 1v or more) between bat voltage and the PID for FVP maybe there's is an issue. I'd check my ScanGauge codes for both to start with. If they're ok your back to the voltage drop test.
My original question has changed into " why does flp drop to less than 13 volts when everything I've read and Ed at ficm repair say that 12.5 or less will kill a ficm."

could the voltage regulator in the flp side of the ficm be getting weak once it gets hot?


Am I being a worry wart? Hell yeah, but I want to avoid the truck being down unexpectedly or having a larger repair cost because of something that could have been prevented.
__________________
2004 f250 xcab 8'bed 4x4 auto XLT, stock tire size stock suspension, sg II, egt gauge, arp studs done 1@ time no HG's, coolant filter, atlas 40, wicked wheel 2, 1000 lbs of tools at all times and dirt,dust, dog fur and kid leavins to spruce up the interior. 218k and climbing.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 08-10-2014, 03:37 PM
Rusty Axlerod's Avatar
Rusty Axlerod Rusty Axlerod is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Enterprise, Alabama
Posts: 5,087
Rusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant future
The three powers of the FICM

FICM main power or FMP is where we look for the 48v output from the amp side of the FICM.

FICM vehicle power or FVP is the power supplied to the amp that makes the 48v output. It is important that this voltage be present in sufficient quantity for the amp to do it's job. I believe this figure is what you are thinking of causing FICM damage. The amp on this side of the FICM is designed to output 48v regardless of it's input volts. If input drops far enough, long enough it will overheat and burn itself up. The input voltage is directly dependent on battery and charging system power available and the wiring connecting the bat volts to the FVP.

FICM logic power or FLP is the power supply that operates the logic side of the FICM. While it is important for this voltage to remain high enough (10.5v is a good number) that the silicone "chips" operate without errors, it isn't a huge concern for FICM damage. The vast majority of damaged FICMs have problems on the amp side of the unit, not this (logic) side.

Unlike the FMP, the max voltage you will measure on FLP and FVP will never be more than the power available in the batter/charging system. Ford says 9.5v is the minimum acceptable value after cold start while the glow plug circuit is powered up. I don't think anyone actually sees 9.5v unless there is a charging system problem, I mentioned 10.5v above as a more acceptable number for a system in good condition and often this number will stay even higher, in the 12v range. It will also vary on the same truck as the ambient temp drops. A truck that holds 12+v at 80° ambient may only hold 10v at 0° ambient due to longer glow plug "on time" and reduced battery power.

Check TSB 08-26-3 for details on checking voltages.
__________________
"Thinkin ain't knowin"
2006, King Ranch, F250, Lariat, Super Duty, Powerstroke, FX4, CC, SRW, 20in Ultra Motorsports Goliath wheels. 2in leveling kit, Husky 16K roller hitch, ScanGaugeII. Sinister coolant filter. Blue spring. BPD EGR cooler. Riffraff CAC boots w/metal cold side tube, STC update. Fumoto valves. Rotella ELC. DashBoss. '08 Mirrors. Mishimoto Rad and 200° stat.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 08-10-2014, 04:47 PM
Mr.Nobody's Avatar
Mr.Nobody Mr.Nobody is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 903
Mr.Nobody is a splendid one to beholdMr.Nobody is a splendid one to beholdMr.Nobody is a splendid one to beholdMr.Nobody is a splendid one to beholdMr.Nobody is a splendid one to beholdMr.Nobody is a splendid one to beholdMr.Nobody is a splendid one to behold
Thanks for that post, Rusty. That even made since to me, but alas, I cannot rep you.
__________________

2005 Ex. 6l w/'04 sticker on valve cover, FICM by Ed. Thanks USCG_PA for the CAC pipe!
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 08-10-2014, 09:21 PM
2civicrr 2civicrr is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 100
2civicrr is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod View Post
FICM main power or FMP is where we look for the 48v output from the amp side of the FICM.

FICM vehicle power or FVP is the power supplied to the amp that makes the 48v output. It is important that this voltage be present in sufficient quantity for the amp to do it's job. I believe this figure is what you are thinking of causing FICM damage. The amp on this side of the FICM is designed to output 48v regardless of it's input volts. If input drops far enough, long enough it will overheat and burn itself up. The input voltage is directly dependent on battery and charging system power available and the wiring connecting the bat volts to the FVP.

FICM logic power or FLP is the power supply that operates the logic side of the FICM. While it is important for this voltage to remain high enough (10.5v is a good number) that the silicone "chips" operate without errors, it isn't a huge concern for FICM damage. The vast majority of damaged FICMs have problems on the amp side of the unit, not this (logic) side.

Unlike the FMP, the max voltage you will measure on FLP and FVP will never be more than the power available in the batter/charging system. Ford says 9.5v is the minimum acceptable value after cold start while the glow plug circuit is powered up. I don't think anyone actually sees 9.5v unless there is a charging system problem, I mentioned 10.5v above as a more acceptable number for a system in good condition and often this number will stay even higher, in the 12v range. It will also vary on the same truck as the ambient temp drops. A truck that holds 12+v at 80° ambient may only hold 10v at 0° ambient due to longer glow plug "on time" and reduced battery power.

Check TSB 08-26-3 for details on checking voltages.
Great explanation of the difference between FMP, FLP & FVP!
__________________
2004 F350 Lariat 6.0 TorqShift CrewCab Dually Longbed.
Updated turbo feed/drain, blue spring, ARP Studs, MBRP dp & exhaust, Spearco intercooler, BPD EGR, CCV mod, FICMrepair with Atlas 40, DC Power 185, Riffraff boots, 2008 tranny pan & filter, Final Charge ELC, Scan Gauge 2, KYB Monomax
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 08-11-2014, 06:36 AM
samsdad02 samsdad02 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 392
samsdad02 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod View Post
FICM main power or FMP is where we look for the 48v output from the amp side of the FICM.

FICM vehicle power or FVP is the power supplied to the amp that makes the 48v output. It is important that this voltage be present in sufficient quantity for the amp to do it's job. I believe this figure is what you are thinking of causing FICM damage. The amp on this side of the FICM is designed to output 48v regardless of it's input volts. If input drops far enough, long enough it will overheat and burn itself up. The input voltage is directly dependent on battery and charging system power available and the wiring connecting the bat volts to the FVP.

FICM logic power or FLP is the power supply that operates the logic side of the FICM. While it is important for this voltage to remain high enough (10.5v is a good number) that the silicone "chips" operate without errors, it isn't a huge concern for FICM damage. The vast majority of damaged FICMs have problems on the amp side of the unit, not this (logic) side.

Unlike the FMP, the max voltage you will measure on FLP and FVP will never be more than the power available in the batter/charging system. Ford says 9.5v is the minimum acceptable value after cold start while the glow plug circuit is powered up. I don't think anyone actually sees 9.5v unless there is a charging system problem, I mentioned 10.5v above as a more acceptable number for a system in good condition and often this number will stay even higher, in the 12v range. It will also vary on the same truck as the ambient temp drops. A truck that holds 12+v at 80° ambient may only hold 10v at 0° ambient due to longer glow plug "on time" and reduced battery power.

Check TSB 08-26-3 for details on checking voltages.
thanks for the explanation! Like I said, I'm a worry wart on preventative stuff, I need my truck to run every day.

as long as the flp is ok fluctuating to 12.5v, I won't worry about it.

thanks to everyone! I really appreciate the willingness to guide those still learning the complexities of these trucks.
__________________
2004 f250 xcab 8'bed 4x4 auto XLT, stock tire size stock suspension, sg II, egt gauge, arp studs done 1@ time no HG's, coolant filter, atlas 40, wicked wheel 2, 1000 lbs of tools at all times and dirt,dust, dog fur and kid leavins to spruce up the interior. 218k and climbing.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 08-18-2014, 01:07 PM
Osgood_Cloud_6.0 Osgood_Cloud_6.0 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1
Osgood_Cloud_6.0 is starting off with a positive reputation.
AMPERAGE or Other?

Hey all,

I'm currently running my 4th single alternator on my 2005 Excursion (6.0) I did upgrade to the 140AMP VRS the 110AMP stock unit.. however, today when I went to the store, my battery light came on again and stayed on for about 10 mins, then went out. This is the same symptom that I've had with the other 3 110amp alternators... does anyone have any suggestions? I know the glow plug system draws an enormous amount of AMPS on start-up, but this is getting really crazy. I have two brand new motorcraft 850 CCA batteries, and on my automatic charger they top off within a few mins. WTH? Help, this problem is really hitting us in the pocket book. We love our truck, (we have a 26' boat we tow with her) but dang, I'm about to rip my hair out.

Any suggestions on what test points I should use with my multimeter to find this problem, or any reassurance that this is simply just a start-up issue with the glow plugs?
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 08-18-2014, 03:53 PM
Rusty Axlerod's Avatar
Rusty Axlerod Rusty Axlerod is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Enterprise, Alabama
Posts: 5,087
Rusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant futureRusty Axlerod has a brilliant future
Is the plug and harness at the back of the alternator in good shape? Might want to look at it closely, a good connection here is important. Unfortunately, the rebuilt units from the chain stores don't have a good track record on a 6.0 powered trucks. While they might work ok on a gasoline powered sedan, the load on them is pretty high with the diesel.

After going thru a couple of alternators myself, I took one to a local shop for repairs. After returning it the first time they fixed it by installing some different "heavy duty" parts and it's been working correctly for a couple of years now. Like yours the indication was an intermittent BAT light on the dash.
__________________
"Thinkin ain't knowin"
2006, King Ranch, F250, Lariat, Super Duty, Powerstroke, FX4, CC, SRW, 20in Ultra Motorsports Goliath wheels. 2in leveling kit, Husky 16K roller hitch, ScanGaugeII. Sinister coolant filter. Blue spring. BPD EGR cooler. Riffraff CAC boots w/metal cold side tube, STC update. Fumoto valves. Rotella ELC. DashBoss. '08 Mirrors. Mishimoto Rad and 200° stat.
Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2014, 03:53 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Diesel > 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
To charge or not to charge? ajg617 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 6 10-01-2014 08:53 AM
help me crunch my numbers superstroked6.0 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 14 04-24-2014 05:49 PM
When to change batteries X-70STANG-F150 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 7 01-20-2014 09:40 AM
What are the volt readings on a new FICM. Will Bite 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 28 11-12-2012 02:43 PM
Well time for new batteries JonArmy 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 49 11-11-2012 11:39 AM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:56 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup