Might be gear oil leaking past the inner bearing seal on the hub... Rotors can be a bugger to get off if the parking brake has ever been left to drag and it cuts into the rotor..

 

Looks like time for new axle seals in the rear. It is not a hard job at all. Just get the right tools.

Like randy said, the rotors can be a treat but if you are replacing them a hammer makes quick work of it. I would plan on replacing the parking brake shoes, hardware and backing plates.

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Well the dricers side is giving me a hard time, I havent even gotten the caliper off yet, the passenger rear caliper came off pretty easy. I cant get the other bolts off holding that bracket piece on that is on top of tue rotor though. But the passenger rotor is loose and jiggles around, once I get those last 2 bolts loose the rotor looks like itll slide right off with ease.

what all is involved with the seals? Assuming I'll need to add fluid as well after.

 

Crack the bleeder valve on that caliper and use a large C-Clamp against the body of the caliper on the reservoir side and then against the exposed part of the pad backer on the opposite side. Apply some pressure with the clamp and you can whack the backside of the caliper (reservoir side) with a ball pein hammer a few times to help get the caliper's pistons to retract. You may need to just apply pressure and let it sit a while as you work on something else and it will eventually bleed down and relax..

The seals, you just pry out and tap in a replacement, but make sure you do a good job cleaning up the sealing surface on the axle tube and put a bit. Of lubricant on that tube so the new seal does not burn up right away..

Yes, you will need to check your fluid level and add some. It might be a good time to change it now...

 

Anyone know what that fluid is leaking under the drivers side up front? See the last pic on page 1.

thanks

 

Life's funny. I got on FTE today to discuss this same issue and this thread was at the top.

My first thought for my truck was the caliper, but I have also heard that the Super Duty trucks have been know to have the rubber lines collapse internally which prevents fluid from flowing back. I just wanted to add, that if you get everything back together and the truck still pulls, go for new brake lines next.

 

will definitely inspect that also, very possible

 

can you get better pics of the lines, hard to tell what they are with that pic. what color is the fluid your finding dripping off of them?

and yes looks like the rear axle seals are gone..long gone. haha

 

Hahahaha. I replaced the passenger seal last weekend with a motorcraft one. Should be good now, just need to put the new brakes on. I'll get bettee pics today. Hard to tell on the lines, fluid looks clearish, the cement just looks wet underneath, doesnt look colored.

 

 

One other thing to check on a rear axle that is leaking at the seals is the vent tube hose. In the past I had a bug get in one and plug the vent. When the axle warmed up it built up pressure and forced oil past the seals because the vent did not let pressure escape. Cleaning the hose and vent was a lot easier and cheaper than replacing a seal.

 

Ditto on the axle seals being loooooong gone..I drove with one leaking for about month and it just had a trickle...I could smell it every time i drove it. Get some gear oil in that diff stat!!

 

power steering cooler?

 

I was low on PS fluid last time I drove it (been over a month). I'll check the fluid tomorrow, that may be what leaked out.

 

So those hoses do run to the PS. It was empty. I'll replace those this week.

I changed the rear rotors pads, and the passenger rear caliper. Everything works but the brake light as well as the abs light are on now, and it still feels like somethings holding it back. Seems like I have to hit the gas rather hard from a stop, to get going. Could something be locked up, maybe the ebrake?