Intake manifold removal advice
#1
Intake manifold removal advice
The variable induction control valve aka: charge motion control valve, that's found on the back of the intake, is now bad on my truck. My first question is, do I really have to take the intake off to change it? And if so, what other things can I do while it's off that would eliminate possibly taking it off again in the future? Anything else I should know? Tins will be the first I time I've worked on a Triton. Thanks all!
Last edited by Wyle E Coyote; 07-10-2014 at 12:47 PM. Reason: Confusing title, lack of responses
#2
Well, yer in for a fun time!
First off, these manifolds have a tendency to crack with age. Removing one after five plus years, it will probably break somewhere. Thus the reason plastic is a TERRIBLE IDEA.
Yes, the manifold must come out. There is not enough room between the back of the manifold and the firewall to do much of anything forget seeing what you're doing.
If you have Lady Luck leaning on your shoulder and everything turns up Sevens, change the heater core bypass tube/hose sitting in the valley between the heads. Look at the back corners of the valve covers to determine if the gaskets are leaking as this is the ONLY chance to see the surfaces. Get a new set of intake manifold gaskets.
Make sure you have a book that covers the engine year as there is a torque spec and sequence. Yes, it's a royal pain to torque the rear bolts as they are under the firewall curve. Oh, and have a pillow you don't mind getting dirty at hand as you're gonna be laying on some rough surfaces and the cushion makes life so much more comfortable.
First off, these manifolds have a tendency to crack with age. Removing one after five plus years, it will probably break somewhere. Thus the reason plastic is a TERRIBLE IDEA.
Yes, the manifold must come out. There is not enough room between the back of the manifold and the firewall to do much of anything forget seeing what you're doing.
If you have Lady Luck leaning on your shoulder and everything turns up Sevens, change the heater core bypass tube/hose sitting in the valley between the heads. Look at the back corners of the valve covers to determine if the gaskets are leaking as this is the ONLY chance to see the surfaces. Get a new set of intake manifold gaskets.
Make sure you have a book that covers the engine year as there is a torque spec and sequence. Yes, it's a royal pain to torque the rear bolts as they are under the firewall curve. Oh, and have a pillow you don't mind getting dirty at hand as you're gonna be laying on some rough surfaces and the cushion makes life so much more comfortable.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
stucky1945
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
0
05-12-2017 10:53 AM
ojai150
2004 - 2008 F150
3
10-22-2015 11:59 PM