1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Ball stud

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Old 07-06-2014, 01:15 AM
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Ball stud

Any help on how to change the ball stud on a 54 F-100? thanks for any suggestions. artford54
 
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Old 07-06-2014, 07:50 AM
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not sure what you are talking about .
 
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:42 AM
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Likely on the pitman arm I'm guessing Dave
 
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Old 07-06-2014, 09:03 AM
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It is on the steering arm on the drivers side spindle. The drag link hooks on it. From the pitman arm. It's replaceable. I got one from Mid-Fifty. Most of my steering play is on it. I'm getting tired of the two lane boogie. I don't know it should be worn after only 400,000 miles.
 
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Old 07-06-2014, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by artford54
I don't know it should be worn after only 400,000 miles.
Someone probably missed one or more of the 400 scheduled grease jobs during the past sixty years.
 
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Old 07-06-2014, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by artford54
Any help on how to change the ball stud on a 54 F-100? thanks for any suggestions. artford54
If it's like mine (and the Parts book shows they're all alike) that ball is tapered down to the threads and is pressed in. You might be able to drive it out.

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Old 07-06-2014, 01:18 PM
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On my 50 I messed mine up thinking it screwed in. I ended up drilling it out and hiring a professional welder, to weld a new one in. Maybe some heat would expand the spindle metal enough to drive the ball stud out, using Joe's suggestion? I don't know, like I said ,I messed mine up.
 
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Old 07-06-2014, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by artford54
It is on the steering arm on the drivers side spindle. The drag link hooks on it. From the pitman arm. It's replaceable.
The stud was not supplied for F1/F2 by FoMoCo.

Parts catalog pic shows it as basic number 3284, but it's only listed in the text section for 1948/52 F3/F6 & 1953/56 F350/600.
 
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Old 07-06-2014, 05:29 PM
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Yep, you replace the entire arm on the smaller trucks.
 
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Old 07-06-2014, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Yep, you replace the entire arm on the smaller trucks.
Well Ill be darned. I guess I did it right after all, that's a first. Just FYI, after drilling it out I uses a tapered reamer to get the new ball stud to fit the angle, leaving just enough room for good penetration for the (professional) welder. I didn't want to chance a bad weld from Me and my little 110v mig.
 
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:07 PM
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I should have said, Ford expected that the entire arm would be replaced. Nowadays your approach is the correct one, Jim! Congrats!
 
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Old 07-06-2014, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
I should have said, Ford expected that the entire arm would be replaced. Nowadays your approach is the correct one, Jim! Congrats!
Break out the balloons, cake, and ice cream, You just made my day.
 
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Old 07-06-2014, 11:36 PM
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How about removing the drag link and tierod and taking the steering arm off so it's easier to work on.
 
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Old 07-06-2014, 11:38 PM
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That sounds like a good idea. Thank you for your help.
 
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Old 07-08-2014, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by artford54
How about removing the drag link and tierod and taking the steering arm off so it's easier to work on.
It might be easier said than done. I'm not sure where you are from (suggest adding that to your "details" under UserCP link in top left corner of header) but if you are from the rust belt your pitman arm could be pretty difficult to remove. You can buy a simple pitman arm puller for not much money at most auto parts or tool stores (Pitman Arm Puller). That should help. Try a bit of heat (just short of turning red) if you still have a problem, but be sure to protect what is above what you are heating (wiring, fuel pump, hoses, etc.). I used a piece of cement board.


Rust-belt truck


Pitman Arm Puller


Sometimes it just won't come off.



This gives you an excuse to clean things up and install a Toyota power steering box
 


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