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Jul 6, 2014 | 01:15 AM

artford54

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Ball stud

Any help on how to change the ball stud on a 54 F-100? thanks for any suggestions. artford54

Jul 6, 2014 | 07:50 AM

DR Smith

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From: northeast Ga

not sure what you are talking about .

Jul 6, 2014 | 08:42 AM

56panelford

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From: northwestern Ontario

Likely on the pitman arm I'm guessing Dave

Jul 6, 2014 | 09:03 AM

artford54

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It is on the steering arm on the drivers side spindle. The drag link hooks on it. From the pitman arm. It's replaceable. I got one from Mid-Fifty. Most of my steering play is on it. I'm getting tired of the two lane boogie. I don't know it should be worn after only 400,000 miles.

Jul 6, 2014 | 10:20 AM

raytasch

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From: W. Central FL.

Quote:

Originally Posted by artford54

I don't know it should be worn after only 400,000 miles.

Someone probably missed one or more of the 400 scheduled grease jobs during the past sixty years.

Jul 6, 2014 | 12:48 PM

Jolly Roger Joe

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From: Rockingham, VA

Quote:

Originally Posted by artford54

Any help on how to change the ball stud on a 54 F-100? thanks for any suggestions. artford54

If it's like mine (and the Parts book shows they're all alike) that ball is tapered down to the threads and is pressed in. You might be able to drive it out.

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Jul 6, 2014 | 01:18 PM

underthebridgejim

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From: paradise, northern calif.

On my 50 I messed mine up thinking it screwed in. I ended up drilling it out and hiring a professional welder, to weld a new one in. Maybe some heat would expand the spindle metal enough to drive the ball stud out, using Joe's suggestion? I don't know, like I said ,I messed mine up.

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Jul 6, 2014 | 05:29 PM

ALBUQ F-1

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From: NM

Yep, you replace the entire arm on the smaller trucks.

Jul 6, 2014 | 07:51 PM

#10

underthebridgejim

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From: paradise, northern calif.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1

Yep, you replace the entire arm on the smaller trucks.

Well Ill be darned. I guess I did it right after all, that's a first. Just FYI, after drilling it out I uses a tapered reamer to get the new ball stud to fit the angle, leaving just enough room for good penetration for the (professional) welder. I didn't want to chance a bad weld from Me and my little 110v mig.

Jul 6, 2014 | 08:07 PM

#11

ALBUQ F-1

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From: NM

I should have said, Ford expected that the entire arm would be replaced. Nowadays your approach is the correct one, Jim! Congrats!

Jul 6, 2014 | 10:45 PM

#12

underthebridgejim

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From: paradise, northern calif.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1

I should have said, Ford expected that the entire arm would be replaced. Nowadays your approach is the correct one, Jim! Congrats!

Break out the balloons, cake, and ice cream, You just made my day.

Jul 6, 2014 | 11:36 PM

#13

artford54

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How about removing the drag link and tierod and taking the steering arm off so it's easier to work on.

Jul 6, 2014 | 11:38 PM

#14

artford54

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That sounds like a good idea. Thank you for your help.

Jul 8, 2014 | 02:57 PM

#15

petemcl

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From: Northville, MI

Quote:

Originally Posted by artford54

How about removing the drag link and tierod and taking the steering arm off so it's easier to work on.

It might be easier said than done. I'm not sure where you are from (suggest adding that to your "details" under UserCP link in top left corner of header) but if you are from the rust belt your pitman arm could be pretty difficult to remove. You can buy a simple pitman arm puller for not much money at most auto parts or tool stores (Pitman Arm Puller). That should help. Try a bit of heat (just short of turning red) if you still have a problem, but be sure to protect what is above what you are heating (wiring, fuel pump, hoses, etc.). I used a piece of cement board.