Ball stud

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Jul 6, 2014 | 01:15 AM

artford54

Thread Starter

Freshman User

Joined: May 2003

Posts: 44

Likes: 0

Ball stud

Any help on how to change the ball stud on a 54 F-100? thanks for any suggestions. artford54

Jul 6, 2014 | 07:50 AM

DR Smith

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 1,532

Likes: 29

From: northeast Ga

not sure what you are talking about .

Jul 6, 2014 | 08:42 AM

56panelford

FTE Legend

Joined: Oct 2005

Posts: 283,251

Likes: 8,157

From: northwestern Ontario

Likely on the pitman arm I'm guessing Dave

Jul 6, 2014 | 09:03 AM

artford54

Thread Starter

Freshman User

Joined: May 2003

Posts: 44

Likes: 0

It is on the steering arm on the drivers side spindle. The drag link hooks on it. From the pitman arm. It's replaceable. I got one from Mid-Fifty. Most of my steering play is on it. I'm getting tired of the two lane boogie. I don't know it should be worn after only 400,000 miles.

Jul 6, 2014 | 10:20 AM

raytasch

Believe Nothing

Joined: Jun 2004

Posts: 7,512

Likes: 394

From: W. Central FL.

Quote:

Originally Posted by artford54

I don't know it should be worn after only 400,000 miles.

Someone probably missed one or more of the 400 scheduled grease jobs during the past sixty years.

Jul 6, 2014 | 12:48 PM

Jolly Roger Joe

Lead Driver

Joined: Jul 2011

Posts: 6,599

Likes: 34

From: Rockingham, VA

Quote:

Originally Posted by artford54

Any help on how to change the ball stud on a 54 F-100? thanks for any suggestions. artford54

If it's like mine (and the Parts book shows they're all alike) that ball is tapered down to the threads and is pressed in. You might be able to drive it out.

Name: Ball.jpg
Views: 795
Size: 98.8 KB

Jul 6, 2014 | 01:18 PM

underthebridgejim

FTE fan

Joined: Dec 2006

Posts: 3,674

Likes: 11

From: paradise, northern calif.

On my 50 I messed mine up thinking it screwed in. I ended up drilling it out and hiring a professional welder, to weld a new one in. Maybe some heat would expand the spindle metal enough to drive the ball stud out, using Joe's suggestion? I don't know, like I said ,I messed mine up.

Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home

Verdad Gallardo

10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!

Joe Kucinski

2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?

Brett Foote

2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!

Michael S. Palmer

10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!

Joe Kucinski

Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026

Brett Foote

5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time

Joe Kucinski

Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!

Joe Kucinski

Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!

Michael S. Palmer

The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)

Joe Kucinski

Jul 6, 2014 | 05:29 PM

ALBUQ F-1

Fleet Owner

Joined: Jul 2004

Posts: 27,283

Likes: 1,046

From: NM

Yep, you replace the entire arm on the smaller trucks.

Jul 6, 2014 | 07:51 PM

#10

underthebridgejim

FTE fan

Joined: Dec 2006

Posts: 3,674

Likes: 11

From: paradise, northern calif.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1

Yep, you replace the entire arm on the smaller trucks.

Well Ill be darned. I guess I did it right after all, that's a first. Just FYI, after drilling it out I uses a tapered reamer to get the new ball stud to fit the angle, leaving just enough room for good penetration for the (professional) welder. I didn't want to chance a bad weld from Me and my little 110v mig.

Jul 6, 2014 | 08:07 PM

#11

ALBUQ F-1

Fleet Owner

Joined: Jul 2004

Posts: 27,283

Likes: 1,046

From: NM

I should have said, Ford expected that the entire arm would be replaced. Nowadays your approach is the correct one, Jim! Congrats!

Jul 6, 2014 | 10:45 PM

#12

underthebridgejim

FTE fan

Joined: Dec 2006

Posts: 3,674

Likes: 11

From: paradise, northern calif.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1

I should have said, Ford expected that the entire arm would be replaced. Nowadays your approach is the correct one, Jim! Congrats!

Break out the balloons, cake, and ice cream, You just made my day.

Jul 6, 2014 | 11:36 PM

#13

artford54

Thread Starter

Freshman User

Joined: May 2003

Posts: 44

Likes: 0

How about removing the drag link and tierod and taking the steering arm off so it's easier to work on.

Jul 6, 2014 | 11:38 PM

#14

artford54

Thread Starter

Freshman User

Joined: May 2003

Posts: 44

Likes: 0

That sounds like a good idea. Thank you for your help.

Jul 8, 2014 | 02:57 PM

#15

petemcl

Logistics Pro

Joined: Nov 2011

Posts: 4,684

Likes: 79

From: Northville, MI

Quote:

Originally Posted by artford54

How about removing the drag link and tierod and taking the steering arm off so it's easier to work on.

It might be easier said than done. I'm not sure where you are from (suggest adding that to your "details" under UserCP link in top left corner of header) but if you are from the rust belt your pitman arm could be pretty difficult to remove. You can buy a simple pitman arm puller for not much money at most auto parts or tool stores (Pitman Arm Puller). That should help. Try a bit of heat (just short of turning red) if you still have a problem, but be sure to protect what is above what you are heating (wiring, fuel pump, hoses, etc.). I used a piece of cement board.