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Viper 5906V Remote Start/Alarm Install Help

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  #1  
Old 06-16-2014, 08:39 AM
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Viper 5906V Remote Start/Alarm Install Help

Hey guys, I am trying to install my Viper 5906v Alarm on my own and i have never done one before. I am temporarily using T-Taps until i can get it to reliably work then i will be soldering the connections this way i done ruin my harness by trying wires (the ignition is not tapped that's wired). For Clarification its a 2004 F250 5.4l without factory keyless entry, I just want reassurance that these are all tapped in the right spots so i can finalize the install I realize dI have a good amount of wires that are not used so it worries me of course.

Right Now It's kinda impossible to take it to an installed because my dash is out while i swap the 08 dash in and I'm trying to hide the module and wires while the dash is out. I have finishe dthe dash and am ready to install it but i want to get this done first since i hate rat's nests and after the last installer installed my remote start I'm surprised the truck didn't combust in to flames.

Here is where I tapped everything:

Viper ---- Truck

Main Harness
1 (+12V Constant Input) ---------- Yellow Wire @ Ignition Harness
2 (Chassis Ground) ---------------- Dash Frame
3 (Siren Output) ------------------ Blue Horn wire on column
4 (Parking Light Isolation Wire) ---- brown parking light wire on light switch
5 (Parking light Output) ----------- Not Used
6 (500ma Ground When armed) ---- Dash Frame

Door Lock Harness
1 (500mA Door Unlock Output) ---- Pink/Light Green @ Drivers Kick Panel
2 (Not used)
3 (500mA Door Lock Output) ------- Pink/Yellow @ Drivers Kick Panel

I tapped these wires and didn't cut them is this correct?

Remote Start Harness (i used the wires that were previously stripped by the last installer)
1 (No Connection)
2 (12v Fused Accessory/Starter Input) -------- Gray Yellow @ Ignition Harness
3 (Flex Relay Input 87A Key side) -------------- Not Used
4 (Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Output) -------------- Red/Black @ Ignition Harness
5 (12v Fused Ignition Fused 1 Input) ---------- Red/Lt Green @ Ignition Harness
6 (Starter Input (Key side of starter kill)) ------ Dark Green @ Ignition Harness
7 (Starter Output (Car side of starter kill)) ----- Not Used
8 (Accessory Output) ------------------------- Gray/Yellow @ Ignition Harness
9 (Fused 12v Ignition 2/Flex relay input 87a) ---- Red/Black @ Ignition Harness
10 (Ignition 1 Input/Output) -------- ----------- Red Lt Green @ Ignition Harness

Auxilary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness
1 ((-) 200mA Ignition 2/Flex relay Output) -------- Tapped into Remote Start Harness
2 ((-) 200mA 2nd status/ rear defogger) ---------- Not Used
3 ((-) 200mA Truck Release) --------------------- Not Used
4 ((-) 200mA Dome Light Output) ---------------- Black/ Lt Blue @ Drivers Kick Panel
5 ((-) 200mA Status Output) -------------------- Not Used
6 ((-) 200mA Aux 3 Output) --------------------- Not Used
7 ((-) 200mA Aux 1 Output) -------------------- Not Used
8 ((-) 200mA Aux 4 Output) -------------------- Not Used
9 ((-) Hood Pin Input) -------------------------- Not Used
10 ((-) Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input) --------- Not used
11 (Activation Input) --------------------------- Not Used
12 (Tachometer Input) -------------------------- Lt Green/Gray Wire near Firewall Pass through wires
13 ((-) Neutral Safety Switch/ Parking brake) ---- Ground @ Dash Frame
14 ((-) 200mA Factory Alarm Disable Output) ---- Not Used
15 ((-) Door Output) --------------------------- Not Used
16 ((-) 200mA Hor honk Output) --------------- Blue Wire @ Steering Column
17 ((-) 200mA Ignition 1 Output) --------------- Tapped into Corresponding Wire on the Remote Start Harness
18 ((+) Door Input) ---------------------------- Not Used
19 ((-) 200mA Aux 2 Output) ------------------ Not Used
20 ((+) Brake Shut down Input) ---------------- Green Wire @ Brake Pedal
21 ((-) 200mA Starter Output) ---------------- Tapped into corresponding wire on Remote Start Harness
22 ((-) Diesel Wait to start) ------------------- Not used
23 ((-) 200mA Accessory Output -------------- Tapped Into corresponding wir eon Remote Start Harness
24 ((-) 200mA Factory alarm Output) ---------- Not Used
 
  #2  
Old 06-16-2014, 01:14 PM
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Bump, Anyone have any input? even if it's a yeah that looks good lol.
 
  #3  
Old 08-31-2014, 05:41 AM
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Hello,
I am currently in the process of installing this alarm as well and have a couple of questions
is the wiring you used from the first post correct?
does everything work correctly?
did you have to install a bypass module (omegalink)

thanks
 
  #4  
Old 06-03-2016, 03:14 PM
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Sorry, Replied to wrong thread thanks to mobile version
 

Last edited by Arcnsparks; 06-03-2016 at 03:19 PM. Reason: Replied to wrong thread thanks to mobile version
  #5  
Old 12-04-2017, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by xmontex4
Hey guys, I am trying to install my Viper 5906v Alarm on my own and i have never done one before. I am temporarily using T-Taps until i can get it to reliably work then i will be soldering the connections this way i done ruin my harness by trying wires (the ignition is not tapped that's wired). For Clarification its a 2004 F250 5.4l without factory keyless entry, I just want reassurance that these are all tapped in the right spots so i can finalize the install I realize dI have a good amount of wires that are not used so it worries me of course.

Right Now It's kinda impossible to take it to an installed because my dash is out while i swap the 08 dash in and I'm trying to hide the module and wires while the dash is out. I have finishe dthe dash and am ready to install it but i want to get this done first since i hate rat's nests and after the last installer installed my remote start I'm surprised the truck didn't combust in to flames.

Here is where I tapped everything:

Viper ---- Truck

Main Harness
1 (+12V Constant Input) ---------- Yellow Wire @ Ignition Harness
2 (Chassis Ground) ---------------- Dash Frame
3 (Siren Output) ------------------ Blue Horn wire on column
4 (Parking Light Isolation Wire) ---- brown parking light wire on light switch
5 (Parking light Output) ----------- Not Used
6 (500ma Ground When armed) ---- Dash Frame

Door Lock Harness
1 (500mA Door Unlock Output) ---- Pink/Light Green @ Drivers Kick Panel
2 (Not used)
3 (500mA Door Lock Output) ------- Pink/Yellow @ Drivers Kick Panel

I tapped these wires and didn't cut them is this correct?

Remote Start Harness (i used the wires that were previously stripped by the last installer)
1 (No Connection)
2 (12v Fused Accessory/Starter Input) -------- Gray Yellow @ Ignition Harness
3 (Flex Relay Input 87A Key side) -------------- Not Used
4 (Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Output) -------------- Red/Black @ Ignition Harness
5 (12v Fused Ignition Fused 1 Input) ---------- Red/Lt Green @ Ignition Harness
6 (Starter Input (Key side of starter kill)) ------ Dark Green @ Ignition Harness
7 (Starter Output (Car side of starter kill)) ----- Not Used
8 (Accessory Output) ------------------------- Gray/Yellow @ Ignition Harness
9 (Fused 12v Ignition 2/Flex relay input 87a) ---- Red/Black @ Ignition Harness
10 (Ignition 1 Input/Output) -------- ----------- Red Lt Green @ Ignition Harness

Auxilary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness
1 ((-) 200mA Ignition 2/Flex relay Output) -------- Tapped into Remote Start Harness
2 ((-) 200mA 2nd status/ rear defogger) ---------- Not Used
3 ((-) 200mA Truck Release) --------------------- Not Used
4 ((-) 200mA Dome Light Output) ---------------- Black/ Lt Blue @ Drivers Kick Panel
5 ((-) 200mA Status Output) -------------------- Not Used
6 ((-) 200mA Aux 3 Output) --------------------- Not Used
7 ((-) 200mA Aux 1 Output) -------------------- Not Used
8 ((-) 200mA Aux 4 Output) -------------------- Not Used
9 ((-) Hood Pin Input) -------------------------- Not Used
10 ((-) Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input) --------- Not used
11 (Activation Input) --------------------------- Not Used
12 (Tachometer Input) -------------------------- Lt Green/Gray Wire near Firewall Pass through wires
13 ((-) Neutral Safety Switch/ Parking brake) ---- Ground @ Dash Frame
14 ((-) 200mA Factory Alarm Disable Output) ---- Not Used
15 ((-) Door Output) --------------------------- Not Used
16 ((-) 200mA Hor honk Output) --------------- Blue Wire @ Steering Column
17 ((-) 200mA Ignition 1 Output) --------------- Tapped into Corresponding Wire on the Remote Start Harness
18 ((+) Door Input) ---------------------------- Not Used
19 ((-) 200mA Aux 2 Output) ------------------ Not Used
20 ((+) Brake Shut down Input) ---------------- Green Wire @ Brake Pedal
21 ((-) 200mA Starter Output) ---------------- Tapped into corresponding wire on Remote Start Harness
22 ((-) Diesel Wait to start) ------------------- Not used
23 ((-) 200mA Accessory Output -------------- Tapped Into corresponding wir eon Remote Start Harness
24 ((-) 200mA Factory alarm Output) ---------- Not Used

Was this the right wiring diagram?? Also did you have to add any relays to the 24pin connection wires you used?? Im currently installing a 5706v.
 
  #6  
Old 12-04-2017, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by fishnbass2
Was this the right wiring diagram?? Also did you have to add any relays to the 24pin connection wires you used?? Im currently installing a 5706v.
You can check the wiring colors here...

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay...eard/Ford.html

or here

ford f-seriessuperduty Car Alarm Wiring Information
 
  #7  
Old 12-04-2017, 12:32 PM
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Gentlemen: Do your self a favor. Take it somewhere and have them do the install.....

you may find yourself looking for a computer.
 
  #8  
Old 12-04-2017, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Just Strokin
I have all the wire colors needed. I just needed to know if you used the 24 pin connector wires without relays or did you splice them into you harness wiring. I took off a bullydog remote entry system and am replacing it with a viper.
 
  #9  
Old 12-04-2017, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Lawnpro979
Gentlemen: Do your self a favor. Take it somewhere and have them do the install.....

you may find yourself looking for a computer.
depends on where you take it. In many cases, a novice at home installer does better because they try harder. I see too many remote start and keyless entry systems that use nothing but scotch locks and electrical tape. I've also seen a bunch that had wire nuts. All from "professional" shops. If you take your time and test the wires before hooking everything up you're good to go. Just take your time and double check everything. I'll tell you right now, I wouldn't let half of the installers around here touch my truck.
 
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Old 12-04-2017, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by afmedic
depends on where you take it. In many cases, a novice at home installer does better because they try harder. I see too many remote start and keyless entry systems that use nothing but scotch locks and electrical tape. I've also seen a bunch that had wire nuts. All from "professional" shops. If you take your time and test the wires before hooking everything up you're good to go. Just take your time and double check everything. I'll tell you right now, I wouldn't let half of the installers around here touch my truck.
I agree on the shops. I was just wondering if the post at top was correct and how they tied in the mA wires to make sure all is correct.
 
  #11  
Old 12-04-2017, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by fishnbass2
I have all the wire colors needed. I just needed to know if you used the 24 pin connector wires without relays or did you splice them into you harness wiring. I took off a bullydog remote entry system and am replacing it with a viper.
The ones I installed, I put T crimp splices onto the factory wiring and then plug into it. I have not used any relays unless it was a known high current requirement identified by the add-on remote start/alarm.

and yes guys, I know some of you do not like the crimp on/scotch loks....i have never had any problems with them over the years.......ran this set up on a 1996 F350 7.3L for 15 years with no problems and was working when I sold the struck
 
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Old 12-04-2017, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Just Strokin
The ones I installed, I put T crimp splices onto the factory wiring and then plug into it. I have not used any relays unless it was a known high current requirement identified by the add-on remote start/alarm.

and yes guys, I know some of you do not like the crimp on/scotch loks....i have never had any problems with them over the years.......ran this set up on a 1996 F350 7.3L for 15 years with no problems and was working when I sold the struck
So you tapped into the 12V wires with the mA wires no problem???
 
  #13  
Old 12-04-2017, 05:02 PM
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I’ll give you guys credit for doing this yourselves I don’t let any shop do anything on my trucks but the remote stat is not something I had any interest in trying to do myself. I got a 2 way system last year on Black Friday for half price and free install with a lifetime warranty nationwide warranty. Good luck guys.
 
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Old 12-04-2017, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by fishnbass2
So you tapped into the 12V wires with the mA wires no problem???
as long as you tap the harness in the correct location there is no problem and no relay is required. These are all signal wires that activate a relay already installed on the truck from factory. The horn wire, for example, if tapped on the switch side of the factory horn relay (at the blue wire) no relay is required because it is an extremely low current trigger for the factory relay. If you were to connect the horn trigger from the remote start to the yellow and green wire under the hood, it would overload the circuit on the remote start since you are bypassing the factory relay at that point in the circuit. Make sense?
 
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Old 12-04-2017, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike189677
I’ll give you guys credit for doing this yourselves I don’t let any shop do anything on my trucks but the remote stat is not something I had any interest in trying to do myself. I got a 2 way system last year on Black Friday for half price and free install with a lifetime warranty nationwide warranty. Good luck guys.
I used to not like things like this, but when I worked at the stealership they sent me to some Ford training place and I got certified as a Ford electrical specialist (whatever that means!) Then I worked as an upfitter for a while. I got a lot more comfortable with electronics after that
 


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