Had enough of trying to find a drop in engine... I talked to 3 different people with engines, none of them could even produce an engine. They have them for sale, but they're still in the truck, and they're too busy to pull them out... they're not sure if anything is wrong, I bought the truck at an auction, I bought it from a buddy...
So I'm going to fix this one, I KNOW what it has for parts in it, so there won't be any surprises when I go to fire it up. I read in run6.0run's engine removal thread that there's 6 do not **** with bolts, so I'm wondering what I need to not screw up pulling the crank out.

 

You need to pull the cam to do it.

 

Yeah, I'm getting it sleeved and honed, so it will have to be stripped. What about the 6 bolts...where are they and why should I not remove them?

 

Back end of the crank shaft.
I don't have a photo handy. The are the ones that
hold the part that the seal rides on.
You can remove the ones that hold the flex plat in place.
Then there will be a metal dust shield. They no,no bolts
are under there.

The reason to not remove is the crank is ground and balanced
after they are installed. So you will upset that. Also don't
swap the bed plate or you going to have to have that line bored
to get all the surfaces in line and then you have to go with over
sized bearings. That is if they even make a line bore set for that.


Sean

 

Awesome, thanks! That's what I was worried about. Just cleaning the pigpen shop up before I dive into it.

*Edit* I tried to rep you two, but the website apparently thinks I'm stalking you, and said I need to rep others before I can rep you again.

 

Could you determine where the Blowby was coming from yet John??

Anthony would be a Good guyb to talk to about it he is one of the very few I know that has don't a complete overhaul and done it correct for that matter

I think it would pay for you to PM him and get his insight for what works and what don't that way you get it done right the first time and don't have any issue

I think a Major Rule is to stay with OEM PARTS

 

Blowby was from the 4 trashed pistons.
Got a little surprise when I started pulling the pistons out... I guess this is fractured rod technology. I've never seen one before. I thought the crack would be smoother, but it's a real crack! It fits together so good it looks like a one piece rod.

 

MMMMM so did the engine hydrolock? (spelling)

Is the crank bent?

 

There is a video on Youtube I think on the process.


Here is one I found. I used to have the full process video


Sean

 

Cool! Thanks for posting that. Always wondered how it was done, never even thought to google it.

No, the engine didn't hydrolock Wildman, it was running when I shut it down to pull the engine. Crank and bearings look perfect so far.

 

If you need any help let me know. I rebuild these motors a lot at the shop. Have 2 of them now in process of overhauling.

 

Ok, kind of stuck... got the rear plate off, there's 6 bolts on the end of the crank, are these the six dnfw bolts? Cheezit said to pull the cam first, but I can't get the cam gear past the crank - the cam gear appears to be pressed on, and I'm assuming the cam comes out the back?!
These engines are soooooo different than a gas engine...

 

Got it. I took the crank out first. Heading to the machine shop with the block and heads.

 

I saw that and forgot to correct that.
Crank before cam.

The cam should be the last thing to come out of the block.


Sean

 

Do you have the tool to set timing when you put the crank back in? You'll need that. I guess maybe it could be done without it but I wouldn't want to try.