1954 front coil springs
#1
1954 front coil springs
I have a1954 f100 and am redoing the front suspension. Has an '80 Camaro front subframe and was wondering others were using for front springs. I just removed the stock springs and was thing of a Moog 5276 constant rate front spring. What is everyone else using? Redoing everything up front with the stock stuff with the exception of the mcgaughys drop spindles.
#2
These are what I ran in my 72 Nova with Global West tubular upper and lower control arms, drop spindles and Edelbrock IAS Shocks. It handled like a freaking slot car afterwords, flat as a pancake into hard corners. And the ride quality wasn't bad at all.
Eibach Springs 3852.120 Eibach Front Springs 1970-81 Camaro - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Eibach Springs 3852.120 Eibach Front Springs 1970-81 Camaro - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
#3
You can't just replace springs with another meant for a different vehicle and predict how they will work. The front end weight of a Camaro is a lot different than the front end weight of an F100 with a Camaro clip! First you need to know what the front end weight of your truck is, then check or have checked the spring rate of the current springs and their free and installed length. Now you can determine what you need or better yet call Eaton Detroit Springs EATON Detroit Spring - The leading manufacturer of leaf and coil springs for the street rod and restoration industries, give them them the above specs, especially the front end weight. and get their recommendation. If they don't have an in stock spring that will work, they can make you a set (for not much difference than an off the shelf set). They are good people and will treat you right. Get the right springs the first time and you won't be changing them again when the "guess" set doesn't work. Changing the front spindles doesn't affect the spring rate.
PS: if you don't know how to get your front end weight just ask.
PS: if you don't know how to get your front end weight just ask.
#5
I really don't want to go lower than the stock setup so the drop springs are out. I'm trying to match the stock set I took out. I know the spring rate is around 340 with overall sprung height of somewhere around 16.5". Diameter seems to be the same for most of the period vehicles in that era. Progressive rates would be nice but the constant rates would be fine too. I'm just looking to get the same height I had before removal. As for the weight, the front end is totally apart right now without engine and tranny. How would I go about weighing the truck without the power train in? Engine and tranny should be here in a few weeks but I really want to have the front ready for the go parts. The springs are something I only want to do once, so I agree I'm not going to take a chance with the unknown. I was just curious what others were using, the stockers that I'm replacing look horrible. They have to be the originals, they were actually rusted to the lowers and I had to persuade them to come off. Thanks for the info!
Clint
Clint
#6
Here is Eatons chart for 70 Camaro springs....they show stock ride height etc
1970 - 1981 Chevrolet Camaro Springs - Eaton Detroit Spring
1970 - 1981 Chevrolet Camaro Springs - Eaton Detroit Spring
#7
To get front or rear axle weight is easy but vehicle needs to be together with everything on it including the driver. Take it to a place that has certified drive on scale (truck stop, etc) tell them you want two weights. first pull onto the scale as normal and get the total weight. Now back the truck up until the rear wheels are off the scale platform and the front wheels are still on it. This second weight is the front axle weight. Subtract the front axle weight from the total weight to get the rear axle weight. If for some reason it's necessary, you could pull forwards after getting the total weight until the front wheels are off the platform and get the rear axle weight instead. Subtract the rear axle weight from the total weight to get the front axle weight.
Clint I suggest putting you original springs back in until you have the truck about completed then weigh it and order your new springs. If it REALLY bothers you, buy a cheap rattle can of black paint and paint the old springs right over the rust etc. Only people that come into your shop will see the "ugly" springs and they will be easily (couple hour job at most) replaced by the right new ones since it's already been apart. There is no way to guess at your front axle weight, WAY too many variables. Don't buy shocks until you know what the final spring rates and front end weight is.
Clint I suggest putting you original springs back in until you have the truck about completed then weigh it and order your new springs. If it REALLY bothers you, buy a cheap rattle can of black paint and paint the old springs right over the rust etc. Only people that come into your shop will see the "ugly" springs and they will be easily (couple hour job at most) replaced by the right new ones since it's already been apart. There is no way to guess at your front axle weight, WAY too many variables. Don't buy shocks until you know what the final spring rates and front end weight is.
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#8
#9
If the shocks are off the shelf big box store ones like Monroe or Gabriels just return them or throw them away. You won't be out much, and they are garbage right out of the box so that's where they belong anyway.
If you are buying OEM GM parts that are still available from GM try here: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ for great prices and service.
If you are buying OEM GM parts that are still available from GM try here: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ for great prices and service.
#11
I know for a fact that Monroes are total junk right out of the box. They spend much more for the box and for product placement on the store shelves than they do for the shock itself, and their quality control is to spot check that the paint coverage is good and the decals are on straight. All their shocks no matter the application use the same cheap internals that barely work, if at all. The odds that 2 of the same part number picked off the shelf have the same damping characteristics is about the same as getting bitten by a shark if you don't swim in the ocean. That's the facts.
If you are replacing control arms make sure to use ones with OEM type rubber bushings. Don't use urethane bushings on the street unless you want your teeth rattled out and parts vibrated off your truck. Put the extra money into a fund for good shocks, something that will make a major difference.
If you are replacing control arms make sure to use ones with OEM type rubber bushings. Don't use urethane bushings on the street unless you want your teeth rattled out and parts vibrated off your truck. Put the extra money into a fund for good shocks, something that will make a major difference.
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