Water Pump Bolt Stud Pattern?
#1
Water Pump Bolt Stud Pattern?
Hi, Folks.
I started out to replace the thermostat on my 1997 E150 4.2L.
And one of the bolts wrung off.
So I had to make room to get to it and remove it.
Figured I would look at the water pump at the same time, which turned out to be a good thing, as the impeller fell out when I pulled the pump off to check it out.
I tried to keep the placement of the various studs & bolts straight, but failed.
None of the studs & bolts broke, but I wanted to replace them with new.
The Dorman 23744 looks to be the answer for that. But I don't remember which size went where, and can't find a diagram that says so.
Can anybody help me out with this?
Thanks in advance!
I started out to replace the thermostat on my 1997 E150 4.2L.
And one of the bolts wrung off.
So I had to make room to get to it and remove it.
Figured I would look at the water pump at the same time, which turned out to be a good thing, as the impeller fell out when I pulled the pump off to check it out.
I tried to keep the placement of the various studs & bolts straight, but failed.
None of the studs & bolts broke, but I wanted to replace them with new.
The Dorman 23744 looks to be the answer for that. But I don't remember which size went where, and can't find a diagram that says so.
Can anybody help me out with this?
Thanks in advance!
#3
You might find this page helpful, VannerDude. It's got lots of good photos.
How to replace a Timing Cover Gasket, '99 F-150 4.2 - F150online Forums
I ended up using a plumber's spud wrench and a large crescent wrench to take off the fan/clutch.
How to replace a Timing Cover Gasket, '99 F-150 4.2 - F150online Forums
I ended up using a plumber's spud wrench and a large crescent wrench to take off the fan/clutch.
#4
Just finished reading it. Scares the girly outta me. I hope my 1989 van is not that complicated.
I just replaced the timing belt on my wife's foreign car though so I should be able to do an American vehicle right? What's with all the millimeter bolt sizes in that video? Good thing I picked up all the metric tools, eh!
I just replaced the timing belt on my wife's foreign car though so I should be able to do an American vehicle right? What's with all the millimeter bolt sizes in that video? Good thing I picked up all the metric tools, eh!
#5
#6
It just gets better. I went to my local Ford dealer to ask about a bolt kit…
After a lot of head scratching, I was told that the bolts might cost $80 or more, depending how many of which flavor I would need.
Except that you can't tell how many would be needed, or their location, from their technical information...
Am I just especially lucky, or can anyone recommend a knowledgeable source?
After a lot of head scratching, I was told that the bolts might cost $80 or more, depending how many of which flavor I would need.
Except that you can't tell how many would be needed, or their location, from their technical information...
Am I just especially lucky, or can anyone recommend a knowledgeable source?
#7
I doubt anyone is really making a proper kit for this application---seems far-fetched to me for some odd reason. Perhaps its not that common a need?
New bolts for this project don't necessarily have to come from the dealer, especially since finding specifics on each one relative to its place around the pump is a mystery even to Ford. That price sounds about right though, believe it or not. It sucks but that's the downside to this particular chore.
I'd use a probe or other measuring method to determine the exact depth of the block holes. Comparing those dimensions with the pump boss for the bolts should reveal which needs to be longer, shorter etc.
Once you have that established good quality plated Grade 5 bolts of the proper thread and length should be easy to find. Finding a flanged hex head bolt in various lengths might be the challenge though so I'd use just standard hex head bolts with an SAE-type hardened washer under them. A bit of anti-seize or any other corrosion-inhibiting substance would be advisable too.
New bolts for this project don't necessarily have to come from the dealer, especially since finding specifics on each one relative to its place around the pump is a mystery even to Ford. That price sounds about right though, believe it or not. It sucks but that's the downside to this particular chore.
I'd use a probe or other measuring method to determine the exact depth of the block holes. Comparing those dimensions with the pump boss for the bolts should reveal which needs to be longer, shorter etc.
Once you have that established good quality plated Grade 5 bolts of the proper thread and length should be easy to find. Finding a flanged hex head bolt in various lengths might be the challenge though so I'd use just standard hex head bolts with an SAE-type hardened washer under them. A bit of anti-seize or any other corrosion-inhibiting substance would be advisable too.
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#8
Well, I'm not the only person who has had problems with coolant bolts corroding and requiring replacement, but…
It still seems odd to me that a set of bolts should cost more than a pump…
And even odder when a Ford dealer can't tell me how many of what kinds of bolts are required to install a water pump… much less where they are supposed to go…
But that appears to be the case, so no use arguing with it any more.
I think I've figured out what should work, and everything is getting doped up with anti-seize and teflon dope.
Thanks for everyone's help and comments.
It still seems odd to me that a set of bolts should cost more than a pump…
And even odder when a Ford dealer can't tell me how many of what kinds of bolts are required to install a water pump… much less where they are supposed to go…
But that appears to be the case, so no use arguing with it any more.
I think I've figured out what should work, and everything is getting doped up with anti-seize and teflon dope.
Thanks for everyone's help and comments.
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