I've owned my '71 since 1978 (60K miles currently) & have had a carb issue for a number of years. When I turn off the engine after warmed up & want to start it again a few minutes later, I need to floor the accelerator & crank the engine for about 20 seconds before it will start...Seems like it's flooded. This is especially true when the weather is hot. On the other hand, during cold starts, especially if I haven't started it for awhile, I need to pump the accelerator a lot before the engine will fire. Does this sound like a bad carb accelerator pump, or maybe a bad needle valve/float level?

 

Could be a few things. One step at a time. Do you have a spacer under the carb?

 

No spacer. Engine is completely stock and has never been opened or carb removed.

 

Well there's your problem. Spacer is a stock component and necessary to keep fuel from boiling into the intake due to heat soak. There will also be heater hose going to and from the spacer. Looks like this:
Carburetor Spacer Ford Mustang Torino 289 302 390 66 67 68 69 70 | eBay
Your truck came from the factory with one. A lot can happen in 43 years.

 

Your "cold start" after been sitting awhile problem is prolly just the gas in the carb's bowl is evaperating out. The fuel pump has to put some back in before it'll start. An open element air filter helps the evaperation. Your other problem is prolly either a needle & seat not seating all the way sometimes or fuel percolating out of the carb because it's getting too much heat from the intake manifold. I would rebuild the carb and when you put it back on use a thick (heat insulating) base plate gasket. Like what was Ford part number E5HZ9C477A. Which ever carb kit you will get will come with a thin gasket.

 

Thanks, Rasputin 53. I thought you meant a non-stock spacer used with a aftermarket intake manifold or carb. It may well have a stock carb spacer. I'll take a look tonight.

 

Also, is yours an auto or manual choke?

 

Auto choke.

 

Most restart problems can be traced to an improperly operating auto choke. Is all the clean air plumbing (choke stove pipe) still in place and good? What generally happens is the steel wool like heat spreader material in the exhaust manifold turns to dust and is pulled into the piston of the auto choke where it then seizes that part. The piston is integral to correct choke operation. So you have three paths:
1. Go through the process of cleaning out and repairing the original system (I'd only do this for the sake of originality) It does work well when it is clean.
2. Replace the choke spring with an electric choke. (most popular in general and easiest)
3. Convert to manual choke. If converting to manual you will need to tap the vacuum port for the choke housing and install a set screw to block it off. It solves a small vacuum leak that could also just be tuned out with carb adjustment, but I prefer to not have unnecessary leakage.

 

Thanks, Rasputin53. All the choke plumbing is intact & the spacer you mentioned is in place. Where would I find the electric choke replacement you suggested?
Thanks again for your help.

 

Also just for a test or leave it is by pass that warm up spacer under the carb.
My ex in-laws 70 f250 c/s started doing the same thing. I setup a mirror on the carb after warming the engine up good then shut it off removed the air filter housing cocked a mirror so I could see down the carb if any gas boiled over.

Well 17 minutes later we heard a garbling noise and look at the mirror and saw it dripping and gas vapors coming out. So later removed that base plate coolant hose and Tee it back into the return heater hose.
It stopped the boiling over and it is still by pass to this day.

Plus added a electric choke and got power from a little pig tail that is about 6" long coming into the fire wall with the ign coil/oil/temp wire loom but it hangs by itself just inside the fire wall. It's a female ford wire socket about 2'' long & 5/8" round rubber cylinder looking, this is only hot when the key on.

I believe only 70 to 72 have this pig tail for a e-choke setup that was going to be used but then was not.
But used later in the mid 70's trucks
orich

 

The tips and ideas that are on this site have helped me to complete my first time ever rebuilding a carburetor.

Today I installed the carburetor (spacer already on my truck) but was not able to locate at the auto parts store a heat insulating gasket. Really wanted to have one since you mentioned it here. Any idea where to get one or should I not go through removing the carb now?
Also, I like your tag line slogan. Attempting a task becomes easier and patience is learned in the process.

 

Yep. Both my trucks run excellent, the 64 esp. is light years ahead of where it was at, mainly because of all the fine folks at FTE (and one old grump).

 

The tips and ideas that are on this site have helped me to complete my first time ever rebuilding a carburetor.

Today I installed the carburetor (spacer already on my truck) but was not able to locate at the auto parts store a heat insulating gasket. Really wanted to have one since you mentioned it here. Any idea where to get one or should I not go through removing the carb now?
Also, I like your tag line slogan. Attempting a task becomes easier and patience is learned in the process.

 

ROL Gasket CM55003 or CM55147. ANd you need one between the carb base and the spacer. Nice looking rebuild. What did you use for dip?