Silly question here ... new to diesels ... what's a high idle?

 

The computer bumps up the idle speed to more quickly warm up a cold engine. In combination with a working EBPV, it gets things closer to the efficient operating zone for diesels faster.

 

So then what is a typical "warm up period" on a bitter cold morning when idling. Because I know when I just get in a go "locally" its never really warmed up when I get where I'm going :-( Tomorrow morning it will be 8 degrees in the morning...are we talking 15, 20, 30 or more minutes to warm up?

 

I agree to a point that it's working perfectly.


Here's part of my day.


I've been suffering from power loss and poor mileage as of late....2 weeks.


The Hissing is abundant and constant with the cold temps here in Michigan. I've had the rig since new in 99 so I know it well.


I have to put my boot down after the normal warm up to make it evaporate for a second, but it returns at all speeds until 55 ish.


I finally nutted up and yanked it into the garage as it's 18 degrees here now, and started in on it.


It is quite a simple procedure to remove and clean the tube.


In my case..not so. Mine came off in three pieces. Anyone that tells you they are stainless are rockstars.


It is a very easy task to pull the tube and sensor and clean it. Half hour job at best.


I had to order my tube from the dealer. 79 bucks. If your going to attempt the job, my advice would be to order the ones off ebay for 40 bucks, or have one in hand before you start unless you live down south and are confident that your not wrestling out a rotted brake line lets say.


Anyway, Lesson here........It is easier with a crow foot 5/8 wrench on the sensor..........but.....In my case the crow flew the extension and ended up landing in the water pump pulley. (Behind it) Seems that it can fall in from the top but the pump and pulley are so closely married at the bottom that even a wire fish or a very strong mag probe won't get to it.


Dropping the fan doesn't seem like a big deal unless you have a chiseled impact that someone used on it before. (Not me, but I did have a shop take it out before and I guess that's how they get em off in a hurry.)


My tube will be in at 8am. My truck will be at the shop at 8am. I'm going to let the same guys pull my fan and water pump pulley and hand me my SK crowsfoot. I can't just wait until it's hardened *** rolls a hole in my pulley or just decides to get a bite on something and tear out my pump.


Could I do it, yes. Is it 18 degrees out yes.


Back to the thread.........


If your truck still is making the hiss after warm up, and you have to throttle up even after it reads normal temp. Do your tube and check the sensor.


It's cheap unless your me. Easier than changing your mind as my wife would say.


I'll post my findings on the hiss after I put the new tube in in the morning.


Gods speed and good luck.


Denny

 

OK, thanks montanasteve. So I started mine (outside temp was about 30* 'ish F), it's idling normally for a couple of minutes and then kicks into high idle. I immediately stab the throttle to reduce the high idle (I didn't know better).

How long does the high idle last? ... and I assume I should just let the high idle run its course and it will settle down on its own?

 

^^That is kind of the answer I am waiting for too^^ Curious how long it takes these motors to warm up in extreme cold....how long the high idle lasts?

 

I don't think the high idle drops out until you do something to the truck. Even if the engine is warm, I believe it goes into high idle for emissions and to prevent cylinder wash-down. It's been a while since I've used a stock program, plus my truck doesn't do a lot of warm idling in neutral - so much of this should be verified.

 

That's a loaded question. Even using the block warmer in the coldest part of our winter, which is about what Michigan is seeing now, mine will never fully warm up driving 18 miles to/from work. It is worse coming home as I can't plug it in at work. You'd have to leave the truck running a LONG time for it to come off high idle on its own can't recall mine ever doing that. You would probably have to block the radiator to some extent for it to come up in a short amount of time.

 

I have my "warmup" tune that bumps the idle and closes the EBPV. The EGTs bump to 400 degrees and the EBP hits 15 PSI. Things warm up pretty fast, but it depends on what temperature you're starting from. I can go from EOT of 60 to 180 degrees in about 20-25 minutes on a summer morning (warmed the truck up to hot-torque injectors). Going from 20 degrees while sucking in 20-degree air will change the math.

 

And sucking in 7 degree air like this morning....guess i'll drive the car ;-)

 

Our weather is very similar Eaglestroker. Do you use any kind of rad shield during the winter months? Is a shield recommended or not?

If yes, what kind ... i.e. a piece of cardboard vs. an off-the-shelf product?

 

This is what I see as well, and it's normal. On super cold days, I'd say single digits and below, my temp dummy gauge never creeps up to the normal spot. There's nothing wrong with driving it like this. What you don't want to do is abuse the truck with cold oil temps. I leave the truck plugged in during cold nights - overnight when really cold, or just a few hours if moderately cold. I fire up the truck and drive, omitting the warm-up, but I drive like grandma until the temp gauge starts coming up, staying out of the turbo until then.

As for how long the high idle lasts, once the oil temp reaches a threshold value, the RPM will slowly decrease as the oil temp increases - at least, that's what I found last spring while logging with AE. I believe the EBPV will remain closed until clutch/throttle is applied. I no longer have the EBPV; I yanked it for performance reasons and to get rid of the oil leak source. How big of a performance gain (by removing a source of turbulence in the exhaust) is debatable, but getting rid of the recurring oil leak source (or other problems like a stuck EBPV flapper) was fine with me.

This thread (and my comments) is not intended to reignite the debate over whether the EBPV should be there - go search EBPV delete if you want info on that. My comments are intended to let you know that you can drive these trucks (respectfully) when cold, that you can plug your truck in for roughly $.10-.12/hour if you want to start off warm, and that you don't necessarily need to leave a truck idling for 5 or 10 or 20 minutes for the "warm-up" cycle.

 

Here is my plug.


Just crawled in from the garage. I've been battling the EBPV hissing and found this........
My Tube was a crumbling mass. I changed it and have had satisfactory results. No more snake bite between brick stuctures and my mileage seems to be back. Delicately cleaned (no more than a 1/4 inch into the sensor) and the world seems good. WWWWWWay better than before.




If you wanna call in snakes..............don't clean your tube.




Denny

 

Hissing sound HELP....

Only hear it when the Wife is in the Truck.

As for calling Snakes... I call her Serpent.

Fast Idle. That just me trying my best to get her back home so I can have some quiet time.

On the brighter side. Got some good news from the Doctor. Said I was loosing some hearing.

 

Lol! Older I get the more value I see in not hearing everything.