Hey guys I asked this over on the ranger site and got nothing. I know some of you are ford techs/mechs. So here goes. I need to replace the rear main on my 94 4.0 2wd Ranger. Went to the dealer as it was recommended I get a replacement OEM or one from NAPA. Anyhow they quoted me around $100 for the seal, said it is new and improved with a wear shim of some sort. I looked at NAPA theirs is $30 but they cannot cross ref to tell me if its the same seal.

Its ford pn F5TZ-6701-A or seal Assy CRA 7082D again I could not Cross either at NAPA. I could not cross at a seal/bearing shop either so they told me to go and get a National 3393. I want a good seal but dont know which to get, oh yes the NAPA recommended is FPG BS40647.

Any insight on this.

TIA Hank

 

I found this thread, hope it helps you out. Click Here

M-chan68 may be able to help, pm him.

 

Hank I just changed my 92 ranger rear main 3.0L so maybe this means Nothing

IDK about a updated OEM seal

But I went with the 15 buck felpro and it was very close in how it was design compared to OEM

The OEM had little notches to get a screwdriver in to get it out but as far as seal Very very close to same design


I don't suspect I will have any problem but I could be dead wrong


Once I got it all Apart though it wasn't the Rear Main seal leaking it was the Rear of the OIL PAN Leaking on Mine so


My thing is I am fixing someone else truck on my Dime so

 

Ford 2.3l / 3.0l / 4.0l rear main seal installer tool | Ford Trucks


You can use any rear main of your choosing, just make sure you set the depth correctly.

Josh

 

Guys thank you for the tips/help. I will take these links to the guy thats going to R&R the thing for me although he should already have everything. Just getting too old to crawl under and out anymore, knees just dont want to take the beating.

Since the clutch stuff except for the master is all autozone they will R&R all, and I am going to get a new flywheel as mine has been machined/turned a couple of times already. Hopefully this will ease the pressure required for the clutch pedal?

Blade how did your stuff go on the ranger? all back together yet or are you like me takes a long time to do what used to be a day task? IE, 3 days to R&R brakes on the ranger!

Again, thanks to all.

 

A 4.0 shouldn't require too much pedal effort.

Just make sure they bench bleed the master and clutch line off the vehicle to purge the air and install both as a set.

Gravity bleed the slave.

Josh

 

OR... you can ask anyone of these guys I have never even drove a Ranger let alone work on one.

 

Don't forget to Install the Pilot bushing, major key , don't ask how I know

 

It's a tiny needle bearing on the 4.0...

Josh

 

Think we have all seen that scenario when someone notices a part that should have been installed at the beginning. Friend of mine was struggling to remove the pilot bushing from his vehicle, I pumped it full of grease, grabbed a shaft and gave it whack... popped right out. Always pay attention when you are around older mechanics.....

 

Super easy on a 4.0... the pilot bearing inserts into the flywheel.

Josh

 

Wow haven't seen anyone in a long time mention that method that comes from times before I was even born. That was a hell of a long time ago but it still works as good as whenever it was first developed.

 

If the seal is leaking then a new seal alone might fix it. But most likely you've worn a groove on the crank surface if theres high mileage and no seal will fix that. That improved seal part number possibly comes with a speedi-sleeve which is what you need to replace the seal properly to prevent leaking. Id check it out, have both on standby so that when the old seal is removed you have what you need.

 

Im stil working at it

Work called and last weekend weather sucked plus I was sick

But I did go until Dark last night after work so might finish today depending how much chit the slave gives me

Don't look to bad to remove and blleed

 

That 3.0L rear main seal hit the stop on mine theres no way to seat to deep

everything rides where it should I didn't use the install tool

but tool would been Faster to install it


It was the original rear main and probably has 200K Slim chance 300K
The rear main was worn about 1/8 all the way around compared to New felpro