Whats been happening the battery has been drawing down over a period of a week if I let it sit.
I open the driver door (only this door does it) no key in ignition I get a chime ding ding. I smack the dash were GEM is it stops sometimes.
I checked battery draw with doors closed ,no key and under hood lightbulb pulled it is sometimes .42 and other times .18 amps.
I remove either fuse 25 ( GEM, speedometer) or 27 ( accessory lights) chime stops and amp draw is nothing.

All test I have the auto lamp switch to off. Alternator charge is 14.3 v at idle. Some history on this vehicle I have replaced the ABS module ( light was on) and Cam sensor (chewed up).

1997 Explorer V8 AWD 4 door

Any ideas???

 

Just a few ideas, but keep in mind this free advice is worth what you paid for it. The big assumption is that your '97 is the same as my '98, for which I have the wiring diagrams.

Fuse 27 is fed by the ignition switch and should only be hot in the "run" position. From there, power goes to the rear window defrost relay, digital transmission range sensor, daytime running light module, backup lamp switch and transmission control switch.

Fuse 25 is power to the GEM but the wiring diagram doesn't show how the GEM power gets distributed. There are a number of power inputs to the GEM besides fuse 25, some come from the ignition switch.

Try jiggling the ignition switch instead of hitting the area near the GEM and see if that causes any changes.

 

My fuse 27 provides power to under hood lamp, map lamps, glove box lamp, dome lamp, visor lamp, accessory delay, dimmer switch illumination and 4x4 system.

Has power to it with key out. Probably different than your 98 were did you get the wiring diagram from?

How much amp should it draw with everything off? Light buld removed from under hood socket and all doors closed.

I'll prob swap ignition lock from spare EX.

 

I got my wiring diagram from Helm, Inc. Not to sound like a snob, but I stick with factory documentation whenever I can. It looks like they're currently out of stock for your year. You can always try ebay or Amazon if you want the factory wiring diagrams (or EVTM - electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual), but I've noticed that most sellers price it more than I paid for brand new from Helm.

I have also seen wiring diagrams in Chilton's and / or Haynes. I don't own any, but I check them out from the library from time to time. The problem with the non-factory manuals is that they try to be one-size-fits-all and cover many years. I would hope (but can't recall) that they would have different wiring diagrams where it makes a difference.

 

Mike you may have pointed me in the right direction of the issue, I tried my ignition lock from parts 96 EX did the same. I took it back out looked down the hole there was a very small loose piece of blue plastic I traced it back to a electrical lead that comes in the entry edge - steering wheel side. When you turn key it makes contact instead it was making contact with the case all the time the broken piece was a insulator, since glue would not hold it I put tape under it to insulate it and original key lock back in. NO ding ding so far without key and amp draw is staying at .18 .