I'm not a fabricator, but maybe someone out there is. I have a Four Wheel Camper (slide in truck camper) on my F250 shortbed. The camper sticks out almost to the end of the tailgate (although I have removed the tailgate).

I often haul either a motorcycle on a moto tote hitch carrier, or a couple bikes on a hitch carrier. I need an extension to get these to clear the back of the camper. The extensions I find are all about 12-18". I need close to 24". I've tried doubling up 2 extensions, but that adds to much wobble.

Any suggestions on the material needed to make a hitch extension? The moto tote simply has a 2x2 shaft that goes from the hitch to the moto tote. I think I could just replace that with a longer shaft (my motorcycle weights less then 300 lbs, so I'm too concerned about the additional leverage/weight). What gauge 2x2 steel would I need?

Thanks for any ideas! I'll be talking to a welder in the next day or two, so maybe he'll have some good info.

 

If I were to make an extension that long I would try and get a solid piece of 2x2 and not hollow. It will be much stronger

 

Why not just buy the one made to go with truck campers?

Steve

 

You ought to consider a front receiver. Put the bike rack on the front of the truck.

 

Thanks for the ideas. I spoke to a local steel shop and they felt 2x2 1/4" thick should be sufficient. It's about $45 in a 5' section, and they'll cut it to length. I'll just have to drill out the holes for the moto tote.

thomabb, I have a front hitch on my f250, but it's the high one that mounts behind the bumper, so when I put my bikes or my moto on they sit to high. I have handlebars or seats sticking 6" above my hood.

RVTech - I'm not sure what you mean by "one made to go with truck campers" - if your talking about the extensions with sway bars attached, I've seen them priced at $400+. Can you direct me to a product you have in mind?

Thanks!

 

I am not sure as to the cost. I am sure they are more than $45.00. Several hundred would be about right.

Steve

 

I have one that is about 16" long and one that is 24" long, both are solid, not tube. The 24" long extension is quite heavy, maybe 45 or 50 pounds? I think the 24" was right around $100. You will definitely want a way to stabilize the rack you have attached to it or it will flop around, and it significantly reduces the hitch's weight-carrying rating.

 

I wonder if it would make sense then to take a look at what is available in the catalogs and copy it?

Steve

 

on my honda goldwing, when the hitch was utilized yes it used to flop and make all kinds of noise. 2 things can be done. 1 weld small beeds aon the insert and then grind to make a nice flush fit. this eliminates the rattle of the draw bar. 2, weld a nut of sufficient size (3/8 inch) to the receiver so as to be able to tighten the bar in the receiver. Drill the hole and then place the dolt thru it with the to be welded nut on outside and a nut to hold the bolt (no welding) to the receiver. weld the one nut remove the bolt and 2d nut and you can tighten the bar that goes into the receiver. Works well and causes no issues. you just have to tighten/loosen whenever you put the draw bar into the receiver.

I saw a setup yesterday, guy had older goldwing on his receiver and a suv of some sort hooked to the setup. you can get these I think they are called cycle caddies or something for the lighter cycles and still be able to tow. I have a picture of one someplace will try to locate and send to ya.

 

Not to dispute your note but according to the physics guru's, it would only be about 10% stronger then a hollow 1/4" thick unit.

Weight ratio wise, because it's so much heavier, it actually would be less, relative to their total weights if hauling that extra weight was a factor.

Not trying to confuse but weight is normally a consideration when towing/hauling.

 

This is what we use for anti rattle and sway on our bike carrier, also the hitch when towing the utility trailer with the Escape. The rattling hitch in a little SUV is deafening. It requires a small hole just forward of the main pin hole, but works damn nicely. I second the recommendation for a front receiver for the bike rack.

Draw-Tite J-Pin Stabilization Pin and Barrel Lockset for 2" Trailer Hitches Tow Ready Locks 63201