Hey Folks, I just did a front end brake job on my 97 f250 hd w/auto hubs. Everything went back together just fine, I spun the tires as I put the tires back on, but after a short drive (with smoking wheels) the tires wont spin???? Tried to bleed the lines no change, any ideas? Thx

 

Moved to 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks forum.

 

When you took the calipers off, did you let them hang by the lines? If you did, that may have damaged the lines.

 

neg, they sat on the leaf springs the whole time. when I bled them the fluid flowed just fine, would they bleed fine if they were bad?

 

Did you have trouble pushing the calliper's pistons back in for new pads? rubber boots in good shape no weather cracks and or tears?

You stated you bleed them again but could you push the pistons back in and without undue force needed to do so before and after installing new pads?

Here in the rust belt its common for the pistons to rust where the piston has been exposed in its extended position due to combination of old dried out cracked boots and thin pads/rotors, work fine until pushed most of or all the way back into the piston bore make space needed for fresh pads/rotors.

That rust now inside the calliper in what is now its new position its new range of operation, it was near full extension but now has been changed to near fully seated position.

Hit the brakes then let off piston can't relax backing off a hair allow the rotor to turn freely again and because of that rust/crust on the piston is locking it in place.

If that's what going on best bet is to replace the calliper/s.

 

Yes. If the rubber separated inside it may act like a check valve letting fluid go to the caliper but not back to the master cylinder. Was one side worse than the other? Calipers have been known to stick after installing new pads. They get used to working in one place and when they are pushed back into new territory they won't return after they are applied. But it is usually just one, not both!

 

Yea, what danr said.

 

If you do find out the caliper is locked up, then take the wheel off and have a wrench ready that fits the bleeder screw.

Start the truck and pump the brake pedal a few times to make hydraulic pressure, then go back and crack the bleeder open. If fluid squirts out under pressure, you got a collapsed brake hose holding the pressure in. If it just dribbles out like normal, then the caliper itself is jammed.

 

you guys are awesome, glad I joined! Well, because it took everything i had to push the pistons back in i'm guessing thats my problem. they were in pretty bad shape. I'll start with checking the lines (thx dixie460) then go to new calipers if I have to. I should have this done by dinner tomorrow, Yeah baby! btw watch for questions on how to replace calipers tomorrow night....

 

Calipers are easy. Get the new ones lubed up and bolted on, zip the banjo bolt out of the old one, put new copper washers on, and tighten it down on the new caliper. Don't even need to clamp the hose if you're quick. I use a cordless 3/8" impact to zip the bolt out, and a long box end wrench to tighten it. Bleed it, put the wheels on, and you're done.

 

She is back on the road! Thx everybody. btw blkF250HD it was real easy.