06 6.0L Help Needed PLEASE "1st post"
#1
06 6.0L Help Needed PLEASE "1st post"
I have the 06 6.0 with 51K miles. I read I need to do this and that, but I then read the 2006 models may not need these changes. Can anyone who actually knows tell me what changes I need to make. This truck is only used to pull my 14K pound camper, that's why I have low mileage. Also, is not running the truck that much a problem in itself. ie turbo problems. My wife and my children as well as myself thank you for your time.
#5
This thread about what to look for when buying a 6.0 is relevant to keeping an eye on one you already have, too. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...used-6-0l.html
And the tech folder has a lot of good info. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
And the tech folder has a lot of good info. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
#7
Sandpit12 Welcome to the FTE Forum. As mention about stc fitting and change your fluids, like your oil&filter and your fuel filters. ALWAYS use ford motorcraft parts, and just drive and enjoy the truck. Now you take care of it and it will take care you. Also get a scanguagell, from AutoZone for $150.00 to monitor the videls on what your truck is doing....
Trending Topics
#8
#9
I would have saved myself many hours of time and close to $3k to $4k if I'd have just spent the $5k on day one when I bought the truck.
#10
Don't ignore the advice on the OBDII monitor (ScanGauge). The factory instrument panel is dummied down to a degree that you can find yourself on the side of the road spewing coolant without any indication of a problem from the factory gauges.
I would also agree with the STC fitting update. It could fail quickly with little warning and ruin a vacation. Inexpensive part, a bit of work to replace (it's on the High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP)). Also, check your coolant for condition. Very important maintenance item on a 6.0, if you're unsure, a thorough flush and fill would be a wise investment. (Don't use green coolant and think about adding a coolant filter).
In addition to the ScanGauge, if you have a smart phone there are apps and hardware for Android and iPhone, and other nicer set-up like the Edge CTS or DashDaq to choose from.
Once you get a monitor up and running you'll want to verify your FICM voltage is good and what the oil and coolant temps are. By looking at the difference between the two we can know if there are issues with the oil cooler.
The fuel pressure isn't monitored by the OBDII system so you'll need a gauge to verify the fuel pressure is where it should be. You can add one to the dash, use a mechanic's gauge, or get a shop to check it. Fuel pressure is important to proper running and injector life (those things are expensive). An "updated" fuel pressure spring is available that will raise your pressure a little. Inexpensive and quick to install, you can do it in the driveway.
There are a few other things to check but this will cover 90% of more common issues.
Congrats on the truck, good luck with it, and welcome to FTE!
I would also agree with the STC fitting update. It could fail quickly with little warning and ruin a vacation. Inexpensive part, a bit of work to replace (it's on the High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP)). Also, check your coolant for condition. Very important maintenance item on a 6.0, if you're unsure, a thorough flush and fill would be a wise investment. (Don't use green coolant and think about adding a coolant filter).
In addition to the ScanGauge, if you have a smart phone there are apps and hardware for Android and iPhone, and other nicer set-up like the Edge CTS or DashDaq to choose from.
Once you get a monitor up and running you'll want to verify your FICM voltage is good and what the oil and coolant temps are. By looking at the difference between the two we can know if there are issues with the oil cooler.
The fuel pressure isn't monitored by the OBDII system so you'll need a gauge to verify the fuel pressure is where it should be. You can add one to the dash, use a mechanic's gauge, or get a shop to check it. Fuel pressure is important to proper running and injector life (those things are expensive). An "updated" fuel pressure spring is available that will raise your pressure a little. Inexpensive and quick to install, you can do it in the driveway.
There are a few other things to check but this will cover 90% of more common issues.
Congrats on the truck, good luck with it, and welcome to FTE!
Last edited by Rusty Axlerod; 04-09-2014 at 04:10 PM. Reason: Add stuff
#11
Sandpit just to give you some insight from one 06 owner to another, now granted mine has double the miles as yours. But I just recently had several issues that cost me a good junk of money that could have been prevented by investing half of what I spent in the beginning.
Lets just say in the end I had to replace both heads, gaskets, oil cooler and I deleted the EGR instead of replacing the blown one. Of course while I had it apart it got studded.
So the potential for problems is there. Your risk can depend on what you plan on doing to the truck. If you are going to leave it bone stock or if you are wanting to tune it etc. The more HP upgrades you do the greater your risk for breaking stuff.
I would say the $3600 would be money well spent in the end. I would also look at a coolant filtration kit only another $158.
#12
Sandpit just to give you some insight from one 06 owner to another, now granted mine has double the miles as yours. But I just recently had several issues that cost me a good junk of money that could have been prevented by investing half of what I spent in the beginning.
Lets just say in the end I had to replace both heads, gaskets, oil cooler and I deleted the EGR instead of replacing the blown one. Of course while I had it apart it got studded.
So the potential for problems is there. Your risk can depend on what you plan on doing to the truck. If you are going to leave it bone stock or if you are wanting to tune it etc. The more HP upgrades you do the greater your risk for breaking stuff.
I would say the $3600 would be money well spent in the end. I would also look at a coolant filtration kit only another $158.
Lets just say in the end I had to replace both heads, gaskets, oil cooler and I deleted the EGR instead of replacing the blown one. Of course while I had it apart it got studded.
So the potential for problems is there. Your risk can depend on what you plan on doing to the truck. If you are going to leave it bone stock or if you are wanting to tune it etc. The more HP upgrades you do the greater your risk for breaking stuff.
I would say the $3600 would be money well spent in the end. I would also look at a coolant filtration kit only another $158.
#13
The blown head gasket issue with these engines can (sometimes? usually?) be prevented by monitoring EOT-ECT delta and fixing if an issue arises. The factory gauges do not do this monitoring.
I'm a bit of a newbie here but from my understanding, the problem that some have is that the oil cooler plugs up with coolant somehow* (engine coolant is used to cool the engine oil). This is not directly bad for your engine immediately, but a chain reaction occurs: Once that happens, the little bit of coolant that can still get through the oil cooler is now getting boiled by the oil that isn't being cooled anymore. The next thing to get that boiling coolant is the EGR cooler - this boiling coolant cracks it and lets coolant into the intake (the coolant that was supposed to cool the exhaust gas headed for the intake). That coolant can get from the cracked EGR cooler into the cylinders, creating high cylinder pressures since the volume of air that was supposed to be compressed in the cylinder is now partly water, which does not compress on a scale anywhere near air. The weakest link in that high pressure cylinder turns out to be the head gasket.
*It might be solids forming, it might be casting sand, I don't know.
If anyone here has a better explanation or a correction, I'd be glad to hear it!
I'm a bit of a newbie here but from my understanding, the problem that some have is that the oil cooler plugs up with coolant somehow* (engine coolant is used to cool the engine oil). This is not directly bad for your engine immediately, but a chain reaction occurs: Once that happens, the little bit of coolant that can still get through the oil cooler is now getting boiled by the oil that isn't being cooled anymore. The next thing to get that boiling coolant is the EGR cooler - this boiling coolant cracks it and lets coolant into the intake (the coolant that was supposed to cool the exhaust gas headed for the intake). That coolant can get from the cracked EGR cooler into the cylinders, creating high cylinder pressures since the volume of air that was supposed to be compressed in the cylinder is now partly water, which does not compress on a scale anywhere near air. The weakest link in that high pressure cylinder turns out to be the head gasket.
*It might be solids forming, it might be casting sand, I don't know.
If anyone here has a better explanation or a correction, I'd be glad to hear it!
#14
I currently own a 2006 also. I joined this site around the 100K mark and I haven't looked back since. At first after reading everything on here I worried myself to death with the what if's and over stressing on what if I have a major issue waiting to hit me. I have had a few scares but it all worked out with a little research on here. I'm now at the 177k mark and its all original equipment with the exception of a pigtail, thermostat, blue spring update, glow plug harness and a few glow plugs. I did all the preventative measures with the exception of the wrench turning. Things like coolant change, SGII, and a strict maintenance plan. I absolutely have the best truck I have ever owned. I may do the STC fittings this summer just as a good measure but I'm not in a hurry. One thing is for sure though, keep tuners away from it unless you want to dig into it. Might not ever have too if you tune it but I believe the common thought is its a mater of time if you do. Try to drive it and enjoy it. You can read yourself into sleepless nights reading some of the horror stories on here.
#15
Wow. Thanks for the info. I think now I will go ahead with the upgrades. While I'm not looking to use a tuner, We constantly are towing a heavy load, so I think as things stand now I will change the EGR to a block off plate, oil cooler, studs, and OBDII wifi unit. Not sure though if I should do anything to the oil lines or fuel rail. Are there any other things I should look at doing while getting this done? The mechanic said the coolant filter wasn't really needed with the new oil cooler. While I am mechanically inclined, I am deaf and dumb when it comes to Diesels, so I really appreciate your patience and info. Thanks in advance for the help!