NO start after new lift pump

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03-25-2014, 09:27 AM

thecowboyway98

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NO start after new lift pump

Ok guys I’m in desperate need here.
Background on the truck
1995 F250 4x4 7.3 automatic
230,xxx
I have removed the fuel bowl heater plug about a year ago. Kept blowing #22 fuse
Water in Fuel sensor has been plugged for over 2 years due to leaking.
New starter about 6 months ago.
2 – new 850/1000 cranking amp batteries about 4 months ago
----------------------------------------
I had some time off being spring break and all so I thought now would be a good time to fix a nagging issue with my 95 7.3 PSD. Ive had a nagging fuel leak in the valley for several months and decided to tackle it this week. The truck was running fine when I pulled into the shop to start.
So I as I tear into the truck after doing some research. Decide I’d go ahead and replace the lift pump since I was gonna have all the lines and such off(pretty sure it was the factory ones)

So after a very long evening I had replaced the lift pump, all new high pressure fuel lines at the pump. I even bought new little washers that go on the banjo bolt that screws in the back of new lift pump.
I anticipated air in the lines. So did lots of 15-20 sec cranking and bleeding out of the straiter valve. Got the truck to finally come alive after tons of cranking. It chugged and ran like a turd for bout 2 mins with me feathering the foot pedal. Then died.

I’m on day 5 now after cranking off and on and charging batteries. I checked every fuse imaginable including #22 30 amp (even replaced with a new one). I even changed some of the relay’s around using the one that runs the horn for a test.

I have triple checked the connections and wiring. Had my bro-in-law check all the fuses/wiring connections just to get another set of eyes. Have a good spray of fuel blowing out of the straiter valve
SO I finally borrow a snap on scanner and have these codes

P1663 FDCS CKT Fault
P1667 SID CHT Fault
P0380 GLOW Plug CKT fault (I expected this one since I haven’t had the GPs plugged in for years)
P1668 PCM-IDM Diag Comm error ( this code shows twice)
After jacking with it for a few hours clearing the codes and running the KOEO tests a couple more times unplugging/plugging harnesses back in all the same codes come back. So I decide to plug in the GPs and run the KOEO test again after clearing the codes. LO and behold now my system shows no codes and says “system pass” which to me makes no sense. I can unplug the GPs and run the KOEO tests and all the 4 codes above come back… Plug back in the GP’s..and I get the system pass with no codes.
Again makes no sense to me…..

After running the live tests with the scanner I see the injctrlpr only gets up to about 250-275 PSI according to the scanner while I crank the truck. I unplug the ICP and crank it get to 2465 psi.
After reading several posts I thought the truck should start if the ICP is unplugged????

I just changed out CPS since it was only 30 bucks and bought a new relay for the IDM

Any ideas? What are the odds something went out at the same time of me replacing the lift pump

I hate to start throwing $ replacing parts I don’t need.
I do have white smoke coming out of the tailpipe when I crank
WTS start works like it should. While cranking the tach gauge jumps to about 400 rpm or so while im cranking

Checked the HPOP and its full

I put my old lift pump back in to rule out I got a bad "new" pump. Installed a pressure gauge and it cranks up to 46-47psi which should be enough to start right??

Any suggestions? I'm almost bald here!!!

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03-25-2014, 12:47 PM

Krisverde

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After all this cranking have you checked the voltage at both batteries?

Why were the glow plugs unhooked? If I remember correctly....white smoke out the tail pipe is fuel that hasn't hit operating temp. (Correct me if I am wrong)

After the lift pump was replaced did you happen to pre fill the fuel bowl? (seems you have pressure in the right spots but I am curious.)

Don't take this the wrong way and think I am being dick...Did you make sure the pushrod that rides on the cam didn't come out of the bottom of the fuel pump or was stuck up? I think when you get a new pump the pushrod is stuck up and you have to pull it down. It's been a year since I did this pump replacement.

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03-25-2014, 02:00 PM

thecowboyway98

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Krisverde

I actually have 2 new batteries and been working them in the rotation with the batteries that are less than 6 months old that was in the truck, and using a charger to keep batteries fresh. The starter cranks like hell

I have had the GP's unplugged for years. Never really had a starting issue with this truck, and winters arent that hard here. It's only my farm rig so doesn't see much use at all except for feeding in the winters a couple times a week or moving cows in the spring. I basically plug in the block heater a few hours before it's time to go feed if temps get real low. I keep it in an insulated shop so Im sure that helps with the start in the cold

When I put my pump back in I dumped a little from the jug get fuel in the bowl then put the filter in and made the bowl flow over (wasnt sure if this was the thing to do, but figured it would cut down on the air)??

I'd like to think the little valve didnt fall out, was being very careful. The only reason I dont think it fell out or is stuck to the top is because im making 46psi of pressure( but im by no means a expert here on these)

And no worries on sounding like a dick...at this point i'm trying to look at what ******* move ive made to cause this issue and get it fixed. Im open to about any suggestions and would appreciate any feedback