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1999 f250 for a work truck

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  #121  
Old 10-08-2014, 10:39 AM
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Gonna check them out today. Haven't seen pics yet but its on the way home from work.
 
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Old 10-08-2014, 08:45 PM
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Got em. Pretty good shape. Rear has a bend in the window frame from a pry bar or something but I dont need the rears so I'm golden. Was gonna use the newer panels but realied they were tan, so I'll likel clean them up and sell them and the rears, as well as my doors which only have a little rust on the bottom, and try and get my 200 back I paid.

 
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Old 10-08-2014, 11:17 PM
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Good deal on the doors. If you like those door panels better than your current one you could always get some interior paint and spray them whatever color you want.
 
  #124  
Old 10-09-2014, 05:22 AM
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I would but being a work truck itll likely get scratched and just start chipping off
 
  #125  
Old 10-09-2014, 06:22 AM
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duplicolor vinyal die works VERY well on both the soft plastic and the hard plastic.

if they have a color that matches, respray them with confidence. they will not scratch, peel, or chip.(unless you gouge them, in which case, just re spray that spot).

i painted the door panels black on my 79 (came as blue) about 3 years ago and they still look perfect.
 
  #126  
Old 10-09-2014, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by meborder
duplicolor vinyal die works VERY well on both the soft plastic and the hard plastic.

if they have a color that matches, respray them with confidence. they will not scratch, peel, or chip.(unless you gouge them, in which case, just re spray that spot).

i painted the door panels black on my 79 (came as blue) about 3 years ago and they still look perfect.
Hmm I'll check it out. What work did you do as far as prep went?
 
  #127  
Old 10-09-2014, 06:41 AM
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Should I swap the door then swap the glass or try and remove it and the locks while its off the truck? Id like to if possible swap the entire window trim/channel, I have in channel vent visors on mine, and the trim on these doors have glue all over them due to the previous owner gluing his own stick on vent visors on these doors. Im hoping I can remove all the black trim around my windows, keeping my vents attached, and just transfer to my new doors. Plus my glass is tinted and these aren't so I need to swap the glass.
 
  #128  
Old 10-09-2014, 10:16 AM
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I haven't used the dye on hard plastic, but it worked great on soft plastic. I imagine it would work just as good though. For prep work just make all grease, dirt, grime, etc are off of it. Greased lightning works great on that material. For some reason, when I spray it on the rag and then wipe the door panel it doesn't work. I have to spray it on the door panel and then wipe it off. I have been using it on my prostar(same panel material as my sd) for several years with no problems.

As far as swapping windows.....It would be much easier to tint the new windows than to swap the old ones and cheaper if you do the tint yourself. A tube of window adhesive runs about $20. I have had to fix 8 Ford windows that have came out of the tract in the past couple of years and I'm sick of working on them lol.
 
  #129  
Old 10-09-2014, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by phillips91
I haven't used the dye on hard plastic, but it worked great on soft plastic. I imagine it would work just as good though. For prep work just make all grease, dirt, grime, etc are off of it. Greased lightning works great on that material. For some reason, when I spray it on the rag and then wipe the door panel it doesn't work. I have to spray it on the door panel and then wipe it off. I have been using it on my prostar(same panel material as my sd) for several years with no problems.

As far as swapping windows.....It would be much easier to tint the new windows than to swap the old ones and cheaper if you do the tint yourself. A tube of window adhesive runs about $20. I have had to fix 8 Ford windows that have came out of the tract in the past couple of years and I'm sick of working on them lol.
Damn. We used some type of adhesive I had in the garage on my dads excursion window that came off and its held up great. Not sure what ot was though, its been a while.
 
  #130  
Old 10-09-2014, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ufvj217
Hmm I'll check it out. What work did you do as far as prep went?

I just cleaned them with simple green and then rinsed them off with clear water before I sprayed them.


the only part of these that are soft is the actual armrest. the rest of the panel is hard plastic.


the stuff is almost idiot proof. goes on like silk. almost impossible to get the stuff to run.... works great if they have a color that matches.


these were blue:






Looks like new!
 
  #131  
Old 10-09-2014, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ufvj217
Damn. We used some type of adhesive I had in the garage on my dads excursion window that came off and its held up great. Not sure what ot was though, its been a while.
Pretty much any glue will hold it in place, but anything that dries hard is going to have to be replaced again soon. Window adhesive stays pliable when dried so that it responds better to adverse conditions(flexing, heat, cold, etc).
 
  #132  
Old 10-09-2014, 09:19 PM
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Gotcha. It looks like itll be easy to takr the weatherstripping that surrounds the window out and save my in channel vents though.

I'm still chasing an issue, it does it more often than not, sometimes it's worse sometimes not as bad. It feels like from a stop, when I let off the brake, sometimes it barely goes. Same in reverse. Sometimes it moves easier but most times it doesn't. Feels like a brake is locked or dragging, but I just changed the rear. Havent touched the front. I engaged the e brake and checked both rear sides and the springs on both sides looked compressed, then released when I took the break off so I dont think its the e brake. After changing the brakes the brake and abs lights were both on, but next day I started it up and they were off.

I recall from when I originally bought it, it didn't move at idle as well as my excursion does, maybe its because my excursion is in good shape, maybe something on the truck is rusted or something causing it, I have no clue. Lol. But its bugging me, just trying ti get this thing back on the road with no issues haha.

filled the diff oil back up today, took about half a bottle from when I changed the seal (most of it missing had slung out before). What should I torque the nuts down to? I read 80 if its the sterling rear end (should be, its not a dana I dont think)
 
  #133  
Old 04-23-2015, 05:58 PM
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**mods, if this is not allowed, just let me know, or if it just needs to be in a different section. Thanks in advance!**

Bumping this thread to see if anyone has anything semi local to me to trade. Located in tampa florida.

ok so im just seeing whats out there, i dont need to trade but i'd like to if the right deal comes around.

2 different vehicles. i have a 2001 ford excursion with TAN leather seats, the front drivers seat being power. the 2nd row is a bench, not buckets. the 2nd and 3rd row are pretty new looking, the fronts show more use, but not ripped or anything. I don't have pics now, but i will update later today with pics of the excursion. i'd like to trade the entire set for a full set of tan cloth seats. i prefer power front drivers, but if not, still contact me and i will decide and possibly still do it. im not sure if i want to do a full even trade, or cash on your end being that its leather for cloth. contact me if you have what i'm looking for and we will go from there and work a deal.

next is a 99 f250 superduty, i have 2 tan vinyl bucket seats (not power), in overall good shape, the foam padding isn't badly worn from sliding in and out of the truck, etc. couple tiny holes here and there. the 2 pics on this listing are of these f250 seats. im looking for 2 of the same buckets, but in cloth. prefer gray as the interior is gray, but tan will do, as i only use it for a beater work truck, so i don't care about the color to be honest. i just HATE getting in sweaty after working outside, and sticking to leather/vinyl seats. im one of those people that just prefers cloth seating.
 
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