Just last week i bought an 03 F250 6.0 with 225000 miles. The truck ran perfect for about a week. I was just cruising about 60mph down the highway and started to go up a hill and i noticed the truck didnt want to take fuel. I looked at fuel gauge and had about 1/8 tank. The truck slowed down to about 30 mph and that was with fuel to floor. Seemed lke it wouldnt go take anymore fuel than about 1/4 throttle. The truck had no power at all, 30-35 mph was as fast as i could go. The low fuel light came on, so i put fuel in it and it didnt change how it ran. The truck would rev up to about 3000 rpm in park and in neutral but when u powerbraked it the rpms would not got past about 1500rpm and i could hear the turbo spool up and it would smoke a lil black smoke but wouldnt even spin tire over once. So i started reading some forums. I pulled egr and it looked new, checked intercooler piping and couldnt find a crack or leak, changed fuel filters, wasnt overheating, wasnt smoking, and nothing changed the way it ran. THe truck would start and idle fine and the check engine light was not on. It was in the low 20s where i live so one guy said it may have gelled fuel or water in fuel. I went to local auto store and bought some diesel 911. I pulled filter under the hood and poured some in there and some in fuel tank. The truck started up but wouldnt rev past 1500 rpm in park now. It ran for about a min and died. Now it will not stay running. i can turn key over a few times and let fuel pump run and it will run for a few seconds but will not take any fuel and will only get up to about 500 rpm. I thought i had air in the fuel system. i read where the 6.0 bleeds itself. i did however loosen the fuel filter lid while pump was running and some air came out. I have worked on many gas engines but this is my first diesel. I checked fuel pressure and its 55psi with KOEO and 55 psi while cranking. I bought a scangauge 2 and here is my results of what i have checked so far.

IPR DUTY CYCLE KOEO=14.8 CRANKING=84.7
ICP PRESSURE KOEO=10 CRANKING=510
FICM LOGIC POWER KOEO=12.5 CRANKING=12.5
FICM MAIN POWER KOEO=48.5 CRANKING=48.5
FICM SYN KEOO=0 CRANKING=1
TP1 VOLTS KOEO=63.9 CRANKING=63.9
TP2 VOLTS KOEO=0 CRANKING=0
MAP VOLTS KOEO=13.4 CRANKING=13.4
EGR THROTTLE POSITION SIGNAL KOEO=0 CRANKING=0

I got tp1 and tp2 code from this link
Some Sc II codes for "Xgauge" (Now injectors) - Page 8 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums



Does these results look normal? What else do i need to check? All help is greatly appreciated

 

With the IPR at 84% and ICP 510 cranking, I would suspect bad HPOP.

 

What is the ICPV's at KOEO?

 

icp volts KOEO=0.19 cranking=0.62

I did unplug icp sensor and still no start.

 

The ICPV's are good, so I would agree that the HPOP is likely bad.

 

Could the ipr sensor be bad? Oh yeah, it doesnt have any codes.

 

You can pull it and check it on your way down to the HPOP
check for Holes in screen and then remove the IPR Screen and Push in on the Valve inside it should move in & out about 1/8 inch

read this link below it will have all your part#s and Tests

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...op-storey.html

 

What ipr % and icp pressure is required during cranking for start up?

 

500ICP to start and that's BARE Minimum that's the point the FICM will turn on to fire injectors. I have noticed some trucks still wont run at 500 ICP but will start at 550 ICP

When normally IPR% hits in the 40-50% Range to create enough ICP to start and that puts ICP in the 650-800 range somewhere with the RPM the starter generates

You Must also Hit 150+RPM since the HPOP is gear driven

the problem is you hit 77.6% IPR and that shows the control valve is closed all the way trying to get enough ICP to Fire the injectors but the leak is to big especialy with hot Oil since its thinner viscosity



You have a few possibilities as far as problem
Bad IPR
Bad HPOP
Bad Seal somewhere from discharge tube to injector
cracked branch tube this is rare
LPO Supply this is also rare but happens

 

Thanks a bunch BLADE35!!! I guess its time to tear into it and see what i find. I will post results when i get into it.

 

2003 had problematic HPOP with this amount of miles your likely on the original HPOP and also at the classic milage when they Fail usually in the 150k-250k miles range

so your likely due

they are not to bad to change except 03 has little more work

 

Is there any other necessities i need to change while i have it tore down? like any lines, seals or gaskets?

 

Well most do an Air test of the HPO System at this point and check for LPO Flow at the Oil filter housing

I didn't do it in my thread cause my ICP didn't drop out until 1800psi IIRC and no shop air goes that High you may need to Deadhead the HPOP

But I found some other things that Pointed to the HPOP so read the thread theress LOTS of Good Info and Links to stuff
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...op-storey.html
Click here^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ it also has info on air fittings you would need to air test even deadhead plugs part#s even a few Links to DIYer Home repairs of the HPOP if your is bad

If you do a HPOP you will want to do an Oil Cooler if you need it also update the IPR Screen and with that mileage I would do Intake manifold gaskets an EGR Deleate But Clean and keep the EGR Valve installed and Plugged in don't use the EGR Cover Plate they give ya with the Kits also get a Turbo install gasket kit


If you end up in the Valve covers then Rering all your injectors and Install all Updated pushrods

Just depends what way you want to go andwhat you want to spend

 

I did take the oil filter out and cranked it over and the housing filled up in just a few seconds. i pushed down on the valve at bottom of housing and it filled up with oil also. my oil pressure gauge does show pressure while cranking. Does that mean my low oil pressure is good?

 

Yes your LPO System is Good

Next step is Air test and pull IPR for a Check