Restoring My '64, Lot's o' Questions
#1
Restoring My '64, Lot's o' Questions
This website has been very informative for me and I finally set myself up with a user name, etc. so I can join in. I recently bought a '64 SWB 2wd f100 which I love dearly. It's an old farm truck that's in pretty good shape but in need of a few fixes.
I was trolling my local craigslist yesterday when I found a guy unloading a bunch of new parts he purchased for a truck that went sour on him. In the lot came a new headliner, new door rubber, emblems, steering wheel, visors, carpet, turn lights and a roll of tar paper. This brings me to my questions;
1. what is the tar paper for? Lining the inside of the doors?
2. Should something go in between the headliner and roof?
3. When I opened up the doors and cleaned out all the crap, I found a clump of putty stuff loose in the door. Anyone know what that's about? Moisture sucker upper maybe?
4. Are anti-rattle kits worth it? Or should I just get the 4 bottom replacement strips?
Of all the stuff that came in this CL score, it looks like I'll have some stuff left over so if anyone is looking for a black plastic headliner, seatbelts,twin ibeam emblems, door rubbers, let me know...
Thanks!
I was trolling my local craigslist yesterday when I found a guy unloading a bunch of new parts he purchased for a truck that went sour on him. In the lot came a new headliner, new door rubber, emblems, steering wheel, visors, carpet, turn lights and a roll of tar paper. This brings me to my questions;
1. what is the tar paper for? Lining the inside of the doors?
2. Should something go in between the headliner and roof?
3. When I opened up the doors and cleaned out all the crap, I found a clump of putty stuff loose in the door. Anyone know what that's about? Moisture sucker upper maybe?
4. Are anti-rattle kits worth it? Or should I just get the 4 bottom replacement strips?
Of all the stuff that came in this CL score, it looks like I'll have some stuff left over so if anyone is looking for a black plastic headliner, seatbelts,twin ibeam emblems, door rubbers, let me know...
Thanks!
#4
great looking truck. i'm also restoring a 64 F100, but mine's a step side. Where are you finding parts. I'm keep hitting dead ends for stuff.
I'm not at the point of thinking about the inside yet. I'm still working on mechanical stuff, but I'll let you know if I end up needing anything like that.
Is your gas tank in the cabin?
Sorry about all the questions.
I'm not at the point of thinking about the inside yet. I'm still working on mechanical stuff, but I'll let you know if I end up needing anything like that.
Is your gas tank in the cabin?
Sorry about all the questions.
#5
I'm lucky in that I live 2 minutes away from Radke's. Portland's best auto parts store. Very old school. My gas tank is in the cabin which could possibly freak me out if I think about it too much. I might look into seeing about getting something that can go in below but I have a lot of other things to focus on first.
#6
The tank in the cab, well - it is what it is. They tend to get a lot of crud and varnish after 50 years. Just bought a replacement for my truck. Only about half of the tank is usable because the fuel pickup tube inside rusted out, and there's no practical way to get to it for even a shadetree fix, it will have to come out anyway, so am going to install new tank soon.
The crankshaft damper is another problem area with these trucks. They have a rubber lining that deteriorates, at best the timing marks are now useless because the damper weight slips off its index. At worst it will separate altogether and launch itself through the radiator. New dampers are pricey, though the originals can be rebuilt with new material. Planning on replacing damper tomorrow, we're finally getting a break in the cold weather.
With all that said by now it would be advisable to actually start your focus with complete brake service, and replace those brake hoses. At the same time clean, inspect/replace and pack the wheel bearings and bearing races with fresh grease all the way around. In the .mil we inspected/repacked bearings every six months! The hanger bearing on the driveshaft is toast at this point as well, etc.
Sent with smoke signals using campfire 1.4.1
The crankshaft damper is another problem area with these trucks. They have a rubber lining that deteriorates, at best the timing marks are now useless because the damper weight slips off its index. At worst it will separate altogether and launch itself through the radiator. New dampers are pricey, though the originals can be rebuilt with new material. Planning on replacing damper tomorrow, we're finally getting a break in the cold weather.
With all that said by now it would be advisable to actually start your focus with complete brake service, and replace those brake hoses. At the same time clean, inspect/replace and pack the wheel bearings and bearing races with fresh grease all the way around. In the .mil we inspected/repacked bearings every six months! The hanger bearing on the driveshaft is toast at this point as well, etc.
Sent with smoke signals using campfire 1.4.1
#7
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#8
#9
The original paper cartridge fuel filter (C4AZ-9365-B - Motorcraft FG-1A) is located inside a canister that threads onto the pump.
Many people are unaware, so they install an inline filter. Meanwhile the cartridge filter is getting more clogged up every day.
#10
1. what is the tar paper for? Lining the inside of the doors?
2. Should something go in between the headliner and roof?
3. When I opened up the doors and cleaned out all the crap, I found a clump of putty stuff loose in the door. Anyone know what that's about? Moisture sucker upper maybe?
4. Are anti-rattle kits worth it? Or should I just get the 4 bottom replacement strips?
2. Should something go in between the headliner and roof?
3. When I opened up the doors and cleaned out all the crap, I found a clump of putty stuff loose in the door. Anyone know what that's about? Moisture sucker upper maybe?
4. Are anti-rattle kits worth it? Or should I just get the 4 bottom replacement strips?
2. Modern rubber/asphalt insulation is needed over 50-70 percent of the roof to eliminate "booming". I live in South Texas so I will do 100 percent when I put in a headliner. You may want to do the same to prevent condensation in the NW.
3. The chunks are sound insulation. I chipped all off that was loose and treated with rust reformer. Spray on rust proofing would be a good option. The doors collect dirt in the bottoms and rust. Make sure the bottoms are clean including the groove along the outside door panel. Mine rusted through and I have made a bondo patch that will eventually have to be properly repaired.
4. The anti rattle kits are great. Unless your weather stripping is in excellent condition. Dennis Carpenter's (DC on the forum) kits come with a nice chrome divider bar. They will reduce road noise more than any thing else you can do after the door weather seals.
I might be interested in the plastic headliner if it is made of black ABS. PM me with the manufacture and what you want for it. If it is rolled up in a fairly compact box it can be shipped reasonably. The original cardboard liners are useless.
#11
Here's a pic of the tar paper stuff I have. Would you put a layer on the inside of the roof? Spray glue?
The putty stuff I found in the doors seemed to be put there on purpose. I found chunks of the door insulation too, but these looked like the putty you put under an RV window wadded up. Both were the same size and shape.
I'm gonna step up and get anti-rattle kits if for no other reason than to quiet this puppy down.
Last night I found that the water leaks are coming in from the roof channel (see my other post) Today is "rebuild the carb day" it's been a while so wish me luck!
<a href="http://s668.photobucket.com/user/marvinworks/media/insulation_zpsce0f2cd7.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv47/marvinworks/insulation_zpsce0f2cd7.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo insulation_zpsce0f2cd7.jpg"/></a>
The putty stuff I found in the doors seemed to be put there on purpose. I found chunks of the door insulation too, but these looked like the putty you put under an RV window wadded up. Both were the same size and shape.
I'm gonna step up and get anti-rattle kits if for no other reason than to quiet this puppy down.
Last night I found that the water leaks are coming in from the roof channel (see my other post) Today is "rebuild the carb day" it's been a while so wish me luck!
<a href="http://s668.photobucket.com/user/marvinworks/media/insulation_zpsce0f2cd7.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv47/marvinworks/insulation_zpsce0f2cd7.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo insulation_zpsce0f2cd7.jpg"/></a>
#13
Gas tank: Mine's under the bed, but it was a hack job installation (like lots of the stuff on this truck). Good luck moving yours. i saw a bunch of posts on that in some forums, so you'll be able to get some good advice.
Gas filter: I took out my old one and put in an inline filter. the old one was filled with crap, which makes me worry about my tank. But it made a huge difference.
Good luck. keep posting. i'll start posting pictures of mine once i can get it out of the garage!
Gas filter: I took out my old one and put in an inline filter. the old one was filled with crap, which makes me worry about my tank. But it made a huge difference.
Good luck. keep posting. i'll start posting pictures of mine once i can get it out of the garage!
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