Could someone tell me what size socket i need for the 4 large bolts on the frontend? Any suggestions to make the job easier. Thanks Don

 

I believe it is metric and fairly large like 20 mm.

Save all the hardware, some of it is expensive to replace.

Save the power steering lines.

Save the brake lines if possible.

It weighs about 250 lbs altogether with the brakes, hubs, springs, A-arms and crossmember... so bring a friend and a big jack and don't work under it while taking the hardware out.

 

Didn't think its weight was so high. Thanks for your reply, didn't think about hoses.

 

Each spring and shock assembly is about 20 lbs. The hub and a-arm assemblies are about 60 lbs each.

I didn't weigh it... but I know I couldn't dead lift it on my own and I can easily get 225lbs

 

MEASURE! measure the back mounts, from control arm bolt to bolt while on the vic. So you know what the space is when you mount them. The salvage yard removed mine and wouldn't allow me access to the car to measure.

Then repost it here for the rest of us. I would also recommend cutting the area where the mounts for the control arms mount to the vic off of the car. Even if you have to torch them. Be good templates and may save you some fab work.

Take as much of the steering column as you can!!! Write down the VIN number! Make sure to note what tag is on the spring. Look for cracks on the aluminum housing. My first one was cracked, it looked good but apparently hit something and had new parts, the area where the lower control arm mounts to the x member had the crack.

While it is in the air, rotate the spindles and listen for a ticking noise. If they are ticking you need new bearings (it is a hub assembly) and they cost 150 each for a good set. So be ready to negotiate the price down if they are shot!

I learned some of that the hard way!

 

Too late it was on my trailer when you posted. Why do you need the vin #? Do you mean from left side to right side on the control arm bolts? I will go next week and get the rest of the steering rod and measure.

 

I don't need the vin. But you might, it should help you to be able to identify the spring codes if the tag is not on them. After install you can purchse different springs from a couple of places for a softer/stiffer ride and lowering springs are also available. As well as air bags.

Correct, from passenger to driver side. Once unbolted you do not know the factory location.

Depending on what all you are doing, you may want to grab the aluminum shaft out of the car. I cut mine off, and had it tig'd back together with new u joints all for under a hundred bucks.