A solid front axle won't ride as nice as IFS, but otherwise I see no reason for concern as long as it is in good shape and the brake system is working correctly.
My '99 Superduty truck has a solid axle and leaf springs (4x4, but the same principle) and it drives and handles real nice. JMO

 

I think the solid axle would do fine, but I think the earlier steering is too slow for me at speed. Most of the stuff I am building now is 60 years old and older and is flat worn out, and I find I can install an IFS for less than rebuilding and updating the older setup (disk brakes, better steering, etc). I dont think it is a matter of durability but I would much rather have quick steering and good brakes at 75MPH no matter what front end is used.

 

The Toyota steering gearbox swap makes the steering as good as any modern vehicle.
Even tho I have front disks on my truck since I built it as a tow vehicle, the drum brakes like the beam axle are actually better in some ways.

 

I'll throw in my .02 since i just (and still am) going through this debacle.

For a nice soft, lowered ride with with driving ease and good handling like a newer car. Go IFS. You will be $$$$$ ahead. Trust me on that.

I went down path "B". I kept the I-beam and added Toyota P/S. Ax is right, the P/S works great, but the front end was wore out. So add the cost of rebuilding the front end and keep in mind, sometimes there's more wore out then just pins and bushings. The rear spring hangar brackets are prone to wear too. Those are $40 a piece. My springs were toast so those were replaced too. After a front end rebuild, it drove much much nicer, but now it was riding high. Into the weeds it needed to go and I wanted less body sway. So add a drop axle and sway bar. So lets look at the costs associated going this route.

Adding Toyota Power steering
Toyota P/S gearbox- used $100-$300, $485 new (paid $100 off ebay, used)
Toyota P/S swap Kit for stock column w/coupler - $245
P/S hose kit - $100 (had mine custom built at local shop for 1/2 that)
P/S pump (depending on engine application) - $25-$100
Brackets for p/s pump (depending on engine) - $25-$100
P/S Conversion cost (minium) -- $445

For aftermarket tilt column **add**
Aftermarket steering column (china or quality) -- $200-$550
Extra $$ for specific P/S swap kit for aftermarket column -- $40.00
Lower Column mount (depending on style) - $25-$100


Basic Rebuild of Front end
Front Spring Hangar bars (dog bones- 2 inner/2 outer $9/ea) - $36/all
Front end pin & bushing kit w/o new springs - $50
King Pin and bushing Kit - $60
Machine shop vat/clean/blast spindles, install/ream new bushings - $25
Front axle Bump Stops (2/ea) - $22.00/pr
Shocks $25/ea - $50
Heavy Duty Tie Rod (highly suggested) - $49
Tie Rod ends L&R (16/ea) - $32
Drag Link rebuild kit (2 req'd, $17/ea) - $34
Cost of repairing/replacing the basic wear parts and a suggested upgrade -- $358

Possible wear items that may need replacing **add**
Front Spring rear Shackle frame bracket - (2 @ $38/ea) - $76
Front springs (if needed, 2 req'd, depend on your ride height desired
) $150- $260/ea


Additional Front suspension Upgrades to aid in handling and appearance
Extended Drag link (If centering wheels in 53-56 F100s) - $99 +core
Front sway bar kit (recommended) -- $189
Dropped Front Axle:
Aftermarket tubular - $300
Stock I-beam Dropped by Sid (w/ approx shipping) - $400
Tie Rod Drops (depending on style) - $48.50 -$75

Then if you haven't gone through the stock drum brakes might as well add another - $250
(Turn drums, new shoes, hardware kits, star wheels, wheel seals, repack old bearings, rebuild or replace wheel cyls)

Or add disk brakes (depending on bolt circle desired)
Complete kit w/booster and m/c for stock spindles approx - $650
Complete kit non-boosted, no m/c approx - $400

So basically, if you were to rebuild the stock front end, not replacing the springs, adding Toyota P/S, and rebuilding the stock brakes you'd be in it around the $1053 mark, minimum.

Now add in a dropped axle, tie rod drops, new springs, extended drag link and a sway bar for a total of approx at least -- $1989.50

And we haven't even upgraded to disc brakes yet. Add yet another $150 (on top of $$ set aside for rebuilding stock drum brakes) for basic, non boosted Disc Brakes. So now over $2000 for something remotely close to a typical IFS.
I've done most everything listed above except for the disc brake conversion. Also done a few things differently, gotten price breaks, found some good used parts, and had some other parts to help me save money. But still, i bet I'm at least $2000 into my front suspension alone. It is a solid beam, and rides like one. I don't mind the ride, actually isn't bad, and I'm sure most wont mind it. But if you're looking for a real smooth ride, like a car, this isn't an option. Go IFS.

 

I'm keeping mine straight axle and I agree with the cost above but I'm wanting to keep the truck on the nostalgic side. This is a father son project, he has watched the old man build toys all his life and now he has the same disease as the old man, yep he's hooked. We decided on 302 and straight axle rather than the norm. Small block Chevy and Mustang ll, not saying its wrong but just not right for us.

 

While I haven't driven it much, I will say I am happy with my 289 and solid front axle. I have also rebuilt the front end, added discs, and Toyota PS.

 

hey dano.....
thank you so much for the full break down on the ifs vs beam. so many guys trying to make that decision will surely benefit from your post....
god! I love this forum
qman

 

No prob! Its always better to be informed... As much as one can anyways. Had I known what I know now, I'd probably went IFS. However, since doing what I've done I've gotten alot of kudos for keeping with a nostalgic theme since my truck is also running a 390 FE.
Like I always said though, bottom line- it's your truck, do it how you please. You're the one that's gotta drive it!