Got the Wilwood MC and tuff stuff 7" dual diaphram booster in last week. (Thx to JasonNoel for recommendation) About to start flaring and bending brake lines. Any suggestions on what kind of fittings to buy? Is there some sort of kit that includes the 90 degree fittings, connectors, etc....

My first time doing brake lines.

 

I like the brake kit from S U R &R. It gives you a lot of the basic fittings and their brake line is some of the easiest line to work with that I have ever used.

A good flaring tool is also a great asset. I went with this one from Summit, it's a little over the top in pricing but your flares will all be factory perfect.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kti-70081/overview/

 

Will I even use most of those brake fittings? I see alot of bubble flares in that kit. I believe that I"m mostly gonna be using 45 degree double flare... But, like i said, it's my first time. I think I'm also gonna buy different lengths pre flared lines. then just cut and flare as needed. I've been researching those flaring tools alot lately. I could see myself using that tool alot if I was going to be doing alot of brake lines, but since this is my only restoration, I'll probably stick to the cheapo $20-$50 tool... That tool makes it look super easy though. If only I could find one on craigslist

 

Speedway Motors has a brake line kit.

 

I already have that proportioning valve though. I"ll check and see if they have that kit without it. thx

 

I bought this flaring tool after having rented a similar one. It is extremely nice and was idiot proof for me. Professional Brake Tubing Flaring Tool - Brake Flaring Tool - Brake Tube Flaring
If you get any hot rod magazines, they had a deal at Xmas time for $170 shipped.
I will buy the AN dies for it one day so I can make fuel lines, too.

Doug

 

This was the part of the project that was probably the most frustrating for me, but I got it done. I already had the MC and prop. valve, so I went to NAPA and got the pre-fabbed lines in the lengths I needed. I was able to plumb the entire truck with only having to flare 3 lines - all others were just bent using the pre-fab lines.

Unfortunately, the 3 that I had to flare were my nemesis. I tried 3 different flaring tools (all the cheaper ones) and could not get a straight flare to save my life. Ended up taking the 3 lines to a parts store and had them do it (embarrassing -- yes).

Also, once done, I discovered that every connection leaked. I had to go back and retighten all of them several times to get them to seal.

Worked out fine in the end, but frustrating.

I had looked at the Speedway lines, but the NAPA lines were generally $3-6 each, so it was cheaper to buy locally and I could measure what I needed and get it the same day. They have lengths in about 4" increments.

 

Dmack, that sounds horrible. Maybe someone out there on FTE would be kind enough to lend me the professional flaring tool and I would return it with a small fee $$ I would even paypal a deposit

 

I've plumbed all my cars, remember the least amount of connections equals the least mount of leaks.....so use the LEAST amount of fittings.
I used brake lines from the parts store (they have up 72" long), I've also used the 25' rolled coil but it's hard to get straight. You just need a GOOD quality bender, a GOOD quality flaring tool, just the ends to fit into the master and hoses.

They make line nuts to go into the master or brake hoses without an adapter:



I use this flaring tool, it's kinda pricey but it flares perfect every time.


You can also buy the coil to protect the line

And any type on line clamp you can want

 

Just take your time, practice and make sure the master has the residual vales inside or you might need a proportioning valve. Also I cut the line with a cut off wheel, straighten out the cut off top with a file, clean out the burrs inside with a deburer amd use the file to chamfer the outer edge if the cut off end. The chamfering helps it not to crack while flaring. Lastly after flaring check to make sure there are not cracks or defects in the flare face or it will leak. On mine if it's going to crack it will split at the seam of the pipe.

 

I found that by mocking up my brake line routing with wire that I was able to use pre fabbed lines in the various lengths. I found that just a slight variation in routing would allow me to use the various lengths that my local Napa stocked without having to cut and flare.

I also found that the brake line forming pliers from H/F worked very well for forming fairly tight curves without kinking. The inside curves of the pliers needed a little smoothing with a round file, but they worked really well.

Tube Bending Pliers

 

I highly recommend copper nickel brake lines. I bought a role of 3/16" 25' on ebay for about $25. So easy to bend and work with.
Cheaper on ebay. But here's an example:
JEGS NiCopp Nickel Copper Brake Lines - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

 

I too recommend the copper nickel line . Easy to bend and flare , polishes up nice ( if you care what the bottom side looks like)

 

I bought a coil of line from AZ and bought the fittings I needed from AZ (came in packs of 2 -6 fittings). They let me in the back and it took me awhile to come up with 90% of what I needed to get it done. It took another trip to get the other 10% of fittings that wasn't initially apparent that I'd need. I'd plan on getting most of it and then plan on at least another trip to get the rest of it. I agree with a previous poster who said the coil is virtually impossible to get straight, but you do get the exact lengths you need (cut the longest ones first).

 

I bought all of my brake, fuel & transmission lines here https://www.sherco-auto.com
I have also bought wire loom & other elec items from them. The had a booth at Daytona Turkey Run last November thats where I found them