I have been doing some thinking and reading up on upgrades for my engine but haven't decided if it would be a good idea or not. I would like some input as whether I should proceed or leave it how it is.

What I currently have:

- Stock 302 (E7TE heads original cam/intake manifolds throttle body) 212k miles
- K&N fipk intake kit (it gave me 1mpg when i installed it years ago so thats good for me)
- Bassani ceramic shorty headers
- Bassani y-pipe with cat
- 3" singal exhaust
- flex-a-lite electric fan (didn't do anything for power but give me more room to work!)

As I said before, I have 212k miles on the motor, all original no rebuilds. The engine seems to run great (mostly) and have as much power as it had when I got it (101k miles.)

I'm getting a wierd issue where at WOT, sometimes it cuts out at 3500rpm and starts to backfire on deceleration, but it doesn't always do this, and any rpm range lower it runs great. I have a thread in the bronco forum about this issue, and I can't seem to figure out what it is. I've done all ignition, vacuum tests, fuel pressure tests everything seems fine.

So anyways, this has got me thinking about tearing my engine apart to replace intake gaskets and whatnot. I figured, IF I do this, while I'm in there, I might as well upgrade something. Oh almost forgot, when I installed my headers, a bolt broke off in the heads on the passenger side near the firewall. Its still in there, but LUCKILY there is no leak. I just keep a close eye and ear on it! Maybe this would persuade me to get different heads instead of something else.

To make a long story short, based on what my current specs are, what do you guys think would be the best upgrade for my engine? I am willing to spend 1000 on something (heads, cam, intake) but don't know if it is a good idea.

I see many people say gt-40 heads are a great budget head, but when I look at how much I can get them for, and then the cost to have them machined, and parts replaced, it seems to come out to be around 800-1000 anyways. I figure for that much, I can get edelbrock e-street heads which would probably be much better.

The other issue I'm having is, should I sink this much money and time into my engine with 212k? I don't think there are any major issues (maybe just a stupid ignition issues with the cut out), but I have heard people say the bottom end should be rebuilt also, and I don't have the money, knowledge, or time for that.

BASICALLY, filtering through this post, my MAIN question is, for a budget of about 1000$ and the current set up I have now, what would be the next best upgrade for my engine? (I would like more HP, but a more efficient engine would be preferred, I would like MPG to go up or stay the same since I drive 50 miles a day)

- Heads, what type?
- Cam? (I supposed calling a cam company would be the good if I get one)
- intake? (throttle body or intake manifolds? I hear these are already good for my truck)

OR should I just leave it alone and not do anything? I would do the work myself, so labor price shouldn't be involved. I've done my timing chain, wheel bearings etc, but never opened up an engine. So if this work is super complicated, maybe I should stay away anyways.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

I found some AFR 165 heads locally listed for 1250. If I can bring the guy to part with them for 1000, will I need anything else for them to work on my stock motor? I know I'll want to get new head bolts, gaskets, dowels, and intake gaskets, but otherwise will I need anything else? If so, this seems like the best option to take if upgrading my engine is a sound decision right now.

 

Do those heads have pedestal or stud mount rockers?
What gearing does your truck have?
The stock cam is pretty good for 0-4000rpm power but could use more lift so consider 1.7 rockers.

 

Hmm it wasn't listed what type of rockers were on the heads. It just said they were new AFR 165 heads. I can give the guy a text and see. I've never messed with heads so I'm guess it matters if it is pedestal or stud rockers for my stock cam then? Maybe swapping heads is a little over my head right now but I can't see it being too much harder than installing a timing chain or a full exhaust swap... just more time right?

Also my truck's gears is I BELIEVE 3.73 which I know is pretty high for having 33s and a 302. However, eventually, I plan on converting my truck to diesel so I don't really want to spend the money on swapping gears when I'm going to need to swap axles.. I think I would keep my engine now and stash it in an older mustang, maybe another bronco or something when that times comes, which justifies me putting some nicer stuff to it now, but that will be pretty far down the road.

I haven't been able to determine if going to higher 4.10s would make a hit on mpg for me or not, especially since I do mainly highway driving. Some people say they would actually increase my mpg due to putting the powerband in the proper place, but many others say it will decrease my mpg. I don't expect to get amazing mileage from my truck, but I would rather do mods that help increase it so I'm hesitant (and probably too poor) to have 4.10s installed, especially when I plan on getting rid of the axles all together down the road.

I have considered putting lower (or taller I always get confused) gears.. but that's one thing I don't know if I am capable of doing myself and I think the cheapest I can get it done would be 1300-1500 (parts and labor), and that's pushing a little more than I can afford right now, especially if my mpg will take a hit.

 

No, if they're pedestal mount they are a direct bolt-on with no extra parts because you can use all the stock parts but if they're stud mount you need different rockers, pushrods and guideplates if the heads don't come with them.

What's the axle code on the drivers door pillar?

33" tires aren't stock so has the speedo been recalibrated? If not you're driving faster than you think and the ODO is indicating lower miles than actual so your fuel milage will look worse than it really is.

Have you pulled codes to try and track down your cutout problem?

Also what trans is in the truck?

 

Hmm well I'll see if I can get a hold of the guy with the AFR heads and see if they are pedestal rockers.

When I get a chance I'll check my door panel for the code. When I bought the truck, the lift etc was just recently put on. I believe the spedo has been recalibrated but I believe it is about 3-5 mph off when it says I'm going 70. I have a scangauge II that says my mph is roughly what I just stated too.

The scangauge I have reads codes also and there are no codes or pending ones either. My transmission is the M5OD.

 

Still haven't gotten a chance to call the guy with the AFR heads and haven't checked my door code yet.. This weekend has been kinda busy for me but I'll have tomorrow free so I can do all that stuff!

I happened to come across a lightly used (10k) set of trickflow heads for much cheaper on Craigslist. The post was a little older but hopefully they are still available. They are twisted wedge style trickflow heads. Apparently port and polish work and "ready to bolt on".

I'm thinking this may be the best bet if I don't have to do any modifications. I haven't been find if many people try and put these heads on a truck, just mustangs so I don't know if there are any issues, or if I can just put some rockers on, get the necessary stuff (ARP bolts, felpro gaskets) and be good. I may have enough for a cam if these trickflow heads will work!

 

The big concern with aftermarket heads on a stock bottom end is with piston to valve clearance. Stock pistons have a small dish that will clear stock sized valves no problem even with a higher lift longer duration cam installed, but when the valves are larger and offset like they are in the twisted wedge heads valve clearance is not at all guaranteed so you have to check to be sure. Checking involves assembling a head on the motor with the valvetrain complete on at least 1 cylinder and then rotating it through a full cycle by hand to see how much clearance there is between valves and pistons. Everything factors into this, the cam lift and duration, the valve size and location, and the piston, and the lifters have to be prevented from compressing so you either have to install lightweight test springs on the heads or modify a set of lifters to be solid for the test. To gauge how much clearance there is clay is usually laid over the top of the piston and then it is sectioned and measured after the head is removed.

If the heads clear fine then they assemble on the motor like any other head, if they don't clear then you have to either flycut eyebrows in the pistons to achieve clearance or change the pistons.

 

Thank you Conanski for all your help. I can't get a hold of the guy with the Trick Flow heads but I did just get off the phone with the person selling the AFR heads. He said they were bought to use all the originally equipment like rockers so they must be the pedestal mount type.

He said he could do 1150 for the heads and they are brand new so I figured that's not a bad deal. I'm pretty sure I'm going to get these heads, even though they are a little over my budget. I just need to get good head bolts and gaskets and whatnot.

I also checked, the axle code on my door is 19, so unless my gears were changed, I think that means I have 3.55 gearing correct? I know that the guy who had the lift installed payed about 3500k to a shop. That's probably too low for changing gears also though.

 

What model AFR heads are they? 165.. 185.. 200? Everything AFR makes is a big step up from the stock E7s so even the 165 head with 1.90/1/60" valves would be a good investment.
Axle code 19 is 3.55 open which is a very common gear ratio, it could easily cost $1000 or more to put gears in both axles so it's something you should consider if you plan to go bigger with the tires or if you just want better overall performance from the truck. Everything you do to the 5.0 puts more power at higher rpms so more axle gear puts you into that power quicker in every transmission gear. You probably will want a limited slip in the rear sooner or later too and that would be the time to change gears.

 

The heads are AFR 165s. I will be picking them up later today if I can get the money from a few ATMs or tomorrow afternoon.

I know the mustang crowd loves the AFR heads, but I don't know how much better they will be for a Bronco. Increasing the HP in higher rpms is nice but won't be super great for a truck. I'm hoping I will notice a good difference in performance, especially with highway driving, and hopefully 1-2mpg increase too.

I don't think I would ever want bigger tires mainly because I can't afford to bring my mpg down. I love driving my bronco, but 50 miles a day gets expensive. It's worth it to me though, but I can't bring the mpg down. Changing gears would be nice, I thought about it. I just don't like the idea of me not being able to do it and having to depend on a shop. Then waiting for them etc.. Plus, when I eventually plan to get diesel, the axles will be gone unless I reuse them on a spare car I get or something.

 

AFR heads use pretty much the same valve angles and locations as stock so no worries with interference using a stock cam. Which there would never be a better time to change than while the heads are off anyway. For mpg find the shortest duration "max torque" cam you can. The way the AFR heads breathe (and with better valve springs) you'll be good ~1,000 rpm above the cam mfg rating and still get the low end grunt.

 

Okay that's good, I just picked up the AFR heads and they sure look nice. I never realized how heavy heads are. These are apparently half the weight as the E7TEs I have.. that will be fun grabbing those out of the truck.

I would love to change my cam too... I don't think I can afford that though. If I could get a good one for under 200, I may do it, but I spent more on the heads then I really should have (not overpriced, just overbudget), and I still need to buy all the other stuff. As far as buying everything else, I will need new head gaskets, intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, head bolts, and some bolt lubricant right? Anything else I should pick up (that's not expensive) that I should change while I'm in there or something I am forgetting? I probably will wait until spring break to tackle this project. I would love to do it this coming weekend, but being this is my daily driver, I can't afford to have it down for too long.

 

You don't need new head bolts on these Fords they don't use torque to yield bolts so they are perfectly safe to reuse. The 1 upgrade I would suggest in lieu of a different cam is 1.7 roller rockers, if you want to keep the stock powerband then there isn't much to be gained with an aftermarket cam besides more valve lift, and adding 1.7 rockers will do that at lower expense.

 

Okay awesome, the head bolts I was looking at were about 80-100 dollars for nice ARP ones. I'm glad I can reuse the old ones! So basically I'll just need head gaskets, intake gaskets, and valve cover gaskets? I read something about getting new head dowels too so the head slides onto the block much easier. If they are cheap, I will definitely get them or if they are highly recommened and not cheap, I'll get them anyways.

So if I can save about 100 with the bolts, I may be able to throw on some rockers then. I looks on summit, and it seems like there are only a few choices for pedestal 1.7 rockers. Basically the crane-cam rockers http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cr...view/make/ford, for about 240, or profom parts for about 190. The profom parts seem to have terrible reviews so I may stay away from those. I think crane-cam is a decent company, so I'll have to look into those rockers and see if they are any good.

If I do go with 1.7 rockers, will I be able to just bolt them on? I read a bunch of stuff about claying things when changing parts and measuring some stuff, but I'm a little confused on what the process is and would like to just be able to bolt on and go. I have stock valve covers now, but saw a pair of used Ford Racing aluminum finned valve covers on craigslist I may pick up since they are cheap and look WAY better than my crappy grey ones. Does anyone know if I would have any issues with clearance with either of these valve covers?

I like how the AFR heads will work with basically everything, so I'm a little nervous changing rocker arms if I will have to take measurements and do adjustments. I would like more torque down low though because that will definitely help with the MPGs and will feel more powerful! Thanks Conanski and BaronVonAutomatc for your suggestions and help so far!