6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Really big job ahead of me. Need some advice.

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  #1  
Old 01-17-2014, 06:57 PM
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Red face Really big job ahead of me. Need some advice.

Roughly a year and a half ago, I had an issue with my truck that turned out to be an injector. Long story short, I haven't been able to fix the issue, and my truck has sat dormant since that time. I've had a second child and several other things in my life that have just taken priority. I'm finally in a position to get this rolling again though.

It's been worked on to pull various parts, identify the bad injector, and a couple of other small items. The batteries are toast, but I had one going anyway when the injector went.

As it stands right now, the turbo is on my workbench, has been cleaned and coated with anti-seize using the Ford reconditioning kit. I've replaced the o-rings on all the passenger side injectors, basically because I checked them all to see if they held vacuum, and injector #3 did not. I was getting bubbles from the bubble test, and I'm pretty certain this is my culprit. None of the driver side injectors had any problems.

My biggest questions are mainly as follows:

It's sat for a LONG time with the same fluids, including fuel in it. Am I better off trying to get rid of the old diesel and getting some fresh fuel in there, or can I attempt to get it going with what's in there?

The oil rail on the passenger side has a loose manifold cup, so I need to fix that and plan to go ahead and replace all the o-rings while I'm at it. The oil rail is on my workbench as well.

The turbo was cleaned up, even though it wasn't in bad shape, but I figured what the heck since it was out of the truck while looking for an oil leak.

I'm going to do an EGR delete while everything is apart, install fresh fuel filters, fresh oil, and with a couple brand new batteries, a new injector, and a little bit of luck, I'm hoping this puppy will fire back up. After that, the coolant system will be getting flushed and filled.

Are there any other areas I need to check out while I've got this thing torn apart? I've got a budget of about 2000-2500 bucks, but about 850-900 of that will be tires. I've never had a vehicle sit that long, and it's been hell watching it sit there each day doing diddly squat.

I can't wait to hear the diesel kick and cough to life, but I'm really worried that it's sat for so long that there will be other issues pop up after I get it running.

What say the experts here? Am I in for an unholy nightmare of continual problems, or do you think this thing will come back to life and be ready to roll again?
 
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Old 01-17-2014, 07:05 PM
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I would drain the fuel and get new in there. I would also turn the engine over by hand a few times while you have the injectors out to help prime it and make sure nothing binds up. Cant for see that but who knows. When you get it ready to crank I would check the voltage of the ficm. With a battery going out when you parked it its possible it hurt the ficm. Other than that you should be good to go.
 
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Old 01-17-2014, 08:41 PM
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Is there a way to drain the tank without dropping it? It won't flush the lines, but at least it will get the stale fuel out of there and I can bring a couple 5 gallons cans back to put in the tank so I have fresh fuel.

One of my other concerns is oil gunking up in the top of the injectors. It was Rotella Synthetic 5W40, so may be it hasn't gotten too bad. I wonder too about the trans fluid and if that could cause any potential problems. I'm also worried about the wheel bearings and other moving parts that haven't moved in a long time. Maybe I'm just being over paranoid.
 
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:24 PM
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Congratulations on the newest child.

Different circumstances but similar timeframe here. I tore my truck down to do head gaskets in May of 2012. Due to personal issues (divorcing) it sat until September of 2013. When I put it back together after 16 months I put new oil, and filters including fuel filters in it. Started up on old fuel no issues 6000 miles later. My truck was kept indoors in a fairly consistent temperature (never below 50 or above 80) so I wasn't too concerned about condensation. If it had sat outside through 2 summers and a winter that would be cause for concern.

So best of luck and I hope you get to enjoy the rattle again soon.
 
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Old 01-17-2014, 11:01 PM
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Dont be surprised if the rotors are warped. If they are just get them turned.
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 01:11 AM
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Unhook a Fuel line after a Filter or something and let the Fuel Pump Pump the Majoirity out then change the Filters
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 01:17 AM
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What all did you coat with anti seize on the turbo? I'm with Benny also,,, if you disconnect the bottom right fuel line on the HFCM,, then I would run the pump and let it pump the fuel out.
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 01:40 AM
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Iv noticed guys are starting to Leave the Turbo Veins Dry now

That Antiseize can Stick the Veins once you Flow Soot over it
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 02:11 AM
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I think your going to find that if you use the right stuff that
the carrier will burn off and just leave the nickel particles behind.
I would be more worried with the aluminum based stuff.
Aluminum has a lower melting temp than nickel and at 900º your
carrier that is mostly just a grease will burn off and leave behind a fine
nickel powder residue.

Try this heat some steel up to 800~900ºF after you have coated
it with the nickel anti-seize and look at what is left over.

The way that it should be applied is very thin. I bet you could
put it on and wipe most of it off and what is left will do the job.

But in some cases a dry clean surface can be less likely to buildup
crap and cause it to stick.

Sean
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:05 AM
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I have been leaving them dry,,
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:21 AM
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I've never antiseized one and never had a problem. knock on wood
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:58 AM
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I agre with Sean , having used the nickel based anti seize and pulled turbo every year for last three years to check it very clean no soot build up due to sticking on anti seize. my tuck lives next to ocean all year long and turbo used to rust and stick often . just my 2 cents worth
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 11:48 AM
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I used the Permatex Anti-Seize on the turbo, but it wasn't the nickel type, just the regular stuff from Advance. The turbo wasn't having any issues before, but I figured since I had most everything torn down, I might as well while I have time to do it. I felt like I put it on a bit too thick anyway so I will probably go back in and wipe the parts down one more time to clean them up. I honestly don't remember how much fuel was in the tank, but I want to say it about 1/4 tank. The truck has been in my driveway, so it's had the up and down of temperatures, etc.

I'm wondering if I pump that fuel out, where would I dispose of it? 1/4 tank is still like 9 gallons of diesel. Maybe just adding in enough fresh diesel and some Stanadyne will help freshen it up?
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 12:01 PM
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Also, there haven't been any batteries in the vehicle either. The FICM and GPCM are also sitting on a shelf in my garage. I'm pretty sure they're EEPROM chips that keep whatever software is flashed to the truck intact, but I'm wondering if anything else be off from not having power for so long? I know the trans will be reset and have to relearn.

Regarding the brake rotors, I've got the cryo treated slotted ART rotors, so hopefully those won't have any issues. They were put on the truck only a couple months before it broke down.
 
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Old 01-18-2014, 12:39 PM
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You could try that with Fuel

Get the new filters on first and drain water separator
 


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