F-250 Axle Flip - Spring Option
#1
F-250 Axle Flip - Spring Option
I've been researching the "poor man's axle flip" method, and see quite a few that have done it by putting the springs under, and (most of the time) notching the frame.
I just put a front end on, and with new tires (245 vs 265 that are still on the rear), the front is quite a bit lower (pic 1 below).
Then, looking under the bed, the 250 seems to have another "layer" of springs on top of the standard (pic 2) - not bolted to the frame, but there's a metal plate that they will hit I guess if you put enough weight in the bed (pic 3). For a second it looked like I could just remove this second layer to lower a few inches, but that won't work, since there's no frame relationship.
Anyway, I'm not going to haul/tow/carry anything in this truck, so I was wondering if I could actually move *just* the main springs under the axle, but keep the top layer on top, which will still allow the metal plate to act as a stopping point if I do go over a large bump. Basically, I really don't want to notch the frame - don't have tools or really the skill to do this.
Would this work, and if so, would it just be the brackets that need to be replaced to adapt to the over/under springs (as well as new shocks)? Any other suggestions to do this on the cheap? Thanks...
Pic1:
Pic2:
Pic3/4:
I just put a front end on, and with new tires (245 vs 265 that are still on the rear), the front is quite a bit lower (pic 1 below).
Then, looking under the bed, the 250 seems to have another "layer" of springs on top of the standard (pic 2) - not bolted to the frame, but there's a metal plate that they will hit I guess if you put enough weight in the bed (pic 3). For a second it looked like I could just remove this second layer to lower a few inches, but that won't work, since there's no frame relationship.
Anyway, I'm not going to haul/tow/carry anything in this truck, so I was wondering if I could actually move *just* the main springs under the axle, but keep the top layer on top, which will still allow the metal plate to act as a stopping point if I do go over a large bump. Basically, I really don't want to notch the frame - don't have tools or really the skill to do this.
Would this work, and if so, would it just be the brackets that need to be replaced to adapt to the over/under springs (as well as new shocks)? Any other suggestions to do this on the cheap? Thanks...
Pic1:
Pic2:
Pic3/4:
#2
#3
Cool, glad someone else is thinking of doing the same thing with the same setup - I thought this was a 250 thing for extra weight, but it looks exactly the same as your 100.
I've also heard the 5 1/2" drop - think that's what they told me the new front end drop ended up being, so it'd be great to see how to get that.
So, what do you mean by "I am going to flip the front spring mount and reverse the front eye" - you mean bottom-to-top and vice-versa? New parts?
Thanks for any more info, I have no aversion to trial and error, so send any suggestions
I've also heard the 5 1/2" drop - think that's what they told me the new front end drop ended up being, so it'd be great to see how to get that.
So, what do you mean by "I am going to flip the front spring mount and reverse the front eye" - you mean bottom-to-top and vice-versa? New parts?
Thanks for any more info, I have no aversion to trial and error, so send any suggestions
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