brake help any advice
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12-10-2013, 05:47 PM
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brake help any advice
I have a 68 f100 rear wheel drive I recently changed the cylinder wheels all around and front brake hoses and bleed the brakes but now it does not want to brake at all the brake pedal goes to the floor if I don't pump it a cupple of times any advice will be appreciated please and thank you
#3
12-10-2013, 06:11 PM
Look Here
A recent thread that might give some help.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-problems.html
Bleeding the Master Cylinder can be a PITA, but MUST be done correctly before any other part of the system.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-problems.html
Bleeding the Master Cylinder can be a PITA, but MUST be done correctly before any other part of the system.
#4
12-10-2013, 07:23 PM
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#5
12-10-2013, 07:32 PM
Fleet Mechanic
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12-10-2013, 07:58 PM
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#7
12-10-2013, 08:15 PM
Brake epidemic
I checked the whole system after changing all the crap you just mentioned. my pedal went to the floor too. i got some of those speed bleeders from doorman at oreilly auto parts. if you use those barely crack them till they bleed. like a 1/4 or less of a turn.
check the little holes that let fluid down to your M/C. the iron reservoirs tend to rust and it gets into the little holes.
then hop under the truck and clamp the two flex hoses in the front, then clamp the rear flex hose. get back in the truck and stand on the pedal. it should be as hard as a rock on viagra. if it fades, your M/C gets an "F". get a new one. remove those clamps now!
if the M/C checks out, get back under the truck with a flat head screwdriver and get familiar with that starwheel adjuster. place the screwdriver on the top of the starwheel and push back or rotate the wheel in an upward fashion. this will push the shoes out tight to the drum. do it till they bite them back them off a bit.
try the brakes, still go to the floor? ok, grab a 3/8 and a 7/16 box wrench, a pair of normal size vice grips, a 9/16 box wrench, and a 3/8 drive socket wrench, and a 9/16 socket with a 3" extension, also get an 8" crescent wrench. Find the distribution block under the driver seat area. the vice grips are for the stubborn compression fittings that may be rusted on there. undo the bracket that mounts the dist. block, unplug that wiring harness that goes to it, use the crescent to control the twist of the block as you try to loosen the brake lines. undo all the compression fittings, get that f***er outta there and take the little nylon wiring harness nut thing off, then take that 9/16 nut off the top that holds a little power valve in there. smack the block on some wood or plastic and get that valve outta there. wd40 it up real good, put it all back together. you'll notice a nice puddle of brake fluid under the truck at this time if you didn't anticipate the drainage after disconnecting everything.
when you bleed the brakes, standard procedure everyone will tell you...right rear, left rear, front right, front left. then go get a beer cuz you'll probably have a pedal now. come back the next day and bleed it again. i guess it's not uncommon to go through a bottle or two of fluid. keep that reservoir filled! it's easy to just pump away,FORGET, and undo all your hard work by letting air in the M/C. i'm no pro, i just fixed my brakes so it's still fresh.
other things you'll need:
music
rags in a box
your wife and kids gone (unless you employ a kid to help)
beer
nitrile gloves---------------godspeed---------then godbrakes
check the little holes that let fluid down to your M/C. the iron reservoirs tend to rust and it gets into the little holes.
then hop under the truck and clamp the two flex hoses in the front, then clamp the rear flex hose. get back in the truck and stand on the pedal. it should be as hard as a rock on viagra. if it fades, your M/C gets an "F". get a new one. remove those clamps now!
if the M/C checks out, get back under the truck with a flat head screwdriver and get familiar with that starwheel adjuster. place the screwdriver on the top of the starwheel and push back or rotate the wheel in an upward fashion. this will push the shoes out tight to the drum. do it till they bite them back them off a bit.
try the brakes, still go to the floor? ok, grab a 3/8 and a 7/16 box wrench, a pair of normal size vice grips, a 9/16 box wrench, and a 3/8 drive socket wrench, and a 9/16 socket with a 3" extension, also get an 8" crescent wrench. Find the distribution block under the driver seat area. the vice grips are for the stubborn compression fittings that may be rusted on there. undo the bracket that mounts the dist. block, unplug that wiring harness that goes to it, use the crescent to control the twist of the block as you try to loosen the brake lines. undo all the compression fittings, get that f***er outta there and take the little nylon wiring harness nut thing off, then take that 9/16 nut off the top that holds a little power valve in there. smack the block on some wood or plastic and get that valve outta there. wd40 it up real good, put it all back together. you'll notice a nice puddle of brake fluid under the truck at this time if you didn't anticipate the drainage after disconnecting everything.
when you bleed the brakes, standard procedure everyone will tell you...right rear, left rear, front right, front left. then go get a beer cuz you'll probably have a pedal now. come back the next day and bleed it again. i guess it's not uncommon to go through a bottle or two of fluid. keep that reservoir filled! it's easy to just pump away,FORGET, and undo all your hard work by letting air in the M/C. i'm no pro, i just fixed my brakes so it's still fresh.
other things you'll need:
music
rags in a box
your wife and kids gone (unless you employ a kid to help)
beer
nitrile gloves---------------godspeed---------then godbrakes
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#8
12-10-2013, 08:50 PM
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#9
12-11-2013, 10:17 AM
I checked the whole system after changing all the crap you just mentioned. my pedal went to the floor too. i got some of those speed bleeders from doorman at oreilly auto parts. if you use those barely crack them till they bleed. like a 1/4 or less of a turn.
check the little holes that let fluid down to your M/C. the iron reservoirs tend to rust and it gets into the little holes.
then hop under the truck and clamp the two flex hoses in the front, then clamp the rear flex hose. get back in the truck and stand on the pedal. it should be as hard as a rock on viagra. if it fades, your M/C gets an "F". get a new one. remove those clamps now!
if the M/C checks out, get back under the truck with a flat head screwdriver and get familiar with that starwheel adjuster. place the screwdriver on the top of the starwheel and push back or rotate the wheel in an upward fashion. this will push the shoes out tight to the drum. do it till they bite them back them off a bit.
try the brakes, still go to the floor? ok, grab a 3/8 and a 7/16 box wrench, a pair of normal size vice grips, a 9/16 box wrench, and a 3/8 drive socket wrench, and a 9/16 socket with a 3" extension, also get an 8" crescent wrench. Find the distribution block under the driver seat area. the vice grips are for the stubborn compression fittings that may be rusted on there. undo the bracket that mounts the dist. block, unplug that wiring harness that goes to it, use the crescent to control the twist of the block as you try to loosen the brake lines. undo all the compression fittings, get that f***er outta there and take the little nylon wiring harness nut thing off, then take that 9/16 nut off the top that holds a little power valve in there. smack the block on some wood or plastic and get that valve outta there. wd40 it up real good, put it all back together. you'll notice a nice puddle of brake fluid under the truck at this time if you didn't anticipate the drainage after disconnecting everything.
when you bleed the brakes, standard procedure everyone will tell you...right rear, left rear, front right, front left. then go get a beer cuz you'll probably have a pedal now. come back the next day and bleed it again. i guess it's not uncommon to go through a bottle or two of fluid. keep that reservoir filled! it's easy to just pump away,FORGET, and undo all your hard work by letting air in the M/C. i'm no pro, i just fixed my brakes so it's still fresh.
other things you'll need:
music
rags in a box
your wife and kids gone (unless you employ a kid to help)
beer
nitrile gloves---------------godspeed---------then godbrakes
check the little holes that let fluid down to your M/C. the iron reservoirs tend to rust and it gets into the little holes.
then hop under the truck and clamp the two flex hoses in the front, then clamp the rear flex hose. get back in the truck and stand on the pedal. it should be as hard as a rock on viagra. if it fades, your M/C gets an "F". get a new one. remove those clamps now!
if the M/C checks out, get back under the truck with a flat head screwdriver and get familiar with that starwheel adjuster. place the screwdriver on the top of the starwheel and push back or rotate the wheel in an upward fashion. this will push the shoes out tight to the drum. do it till they bite them back them off a bit.
try the brakes, still go to the floor? ok, grab a 3/8 and a 7/16 box wrench, a pair of normal size vice grips, a 9/16 box wrench, and a 3/8 drive socket wrench, and a 9/16 socket with a 3" extension, also get an 8" crescent wrench. Find the distribution block under the driver seat area. the vice grips are for the stubborn compression fittings that may be rusted on there. undo the bracket that mounts the dist. block, unplug that wiring harness that goes to it, use the crescent to control the twist of the block as you try to loosen the brake lines. undo all the compression fittings, get that f***er outta there and take the little nylon wiring harness nut thing off, then take that 9/16 nut off the top that holds a little power valve in there. smack the block on some wood or plastic and get that valve outta there. wd40 it up real good, put it all back together. you'll notice a nice puddle of brake fluid under the truck at this time if you didn't anticipate the drainage after disconnecting everything.
when you bleed the brakes, standard procedure everyone will tell you...right rear, left rear, front right, front left. then go get a beer cuz you'll probably have a pedal now. come back the next day and bleed it again. i guess it's not uncommon to go through a bottle or two of fluid. keep that reservoir filled! it's easy to just pump away,FORGET, and undo all your hard work by letting air in the M/C. i'm no pro, i just fixed my brakes so it's still fresh.
other things you'll need:
music
rags in a box
your wife and kids gone (unless you employ a kid to help)
beer
nitrile gloves---------------godspeed---------then godbrakes
orich
#10
12-11-2013, 01:04 PM
Hotshot
2X ORICH. Brake fluid doesn't like anything else in the system. Example. If you put anykind of oil in the system all rubber will swell 20 times it's normal size. The rubber diaphragm on the M/C cap will look like a kid's hot water bottle that is full! btw, wd-40 is only a temporary lubricant. It's original design was to be a cleaner.
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