No, it wont start! It's trying hard but no dice. When I try the engine temp and the fuel filter lights come on. The filter was changed about a month ago by somebody else, because back than I still couldn't move yet following that accident. Plus I still had a feeding tube in and I didn't want to rip it out (again) climbing around the truck and getting it caught on something. Anyway all that's in the past now I only have trouble on the right side of my body and that will go away too in time. I'll take the filter off and make sure it was on right than go from there. -Z

 

EEEK, that means you only had glow plugs for the few seconds that you were holding the key in START. Gotta love the things that previous owners do sometimes...

The lights are normal. The diesel-specific ones go on during cranking as a "bulb check". As for not starting, how long did you leave the key in RUN? If the block heater's not plugged in (kinda lost track of that aspect of the thread...), try leaving the key in RUN for an extra 10-15 seconds for some longer glow plug time.

 

Ok I can just leave the key on and the glow plugs stay on? Cool. As for the wiring I'll get plenty of practice as soon as the weather gets on the warmer side. There is some "down home" wiring under the hood. Like the left side battery has led melted on the positive terminal to hold the cable on. On the right battery on the negative side I found nails stuck between the terminal and the cable used as spacers etc... But it's cool. I'll get 'er taken care of. Also I plugged in and we'll see in a couple of hours. Either way it turns out, you guys helped me learn more about my truck in the last few days than I could have on my own. Thanks to you all!

 

Correct; glow plugs run up to two minutes. Shorter if the engine is warm. The WTS light is on a completely separate time program in the PCM.

 

Great thanks

 

I finally had time to work on my truck again yesterday, replaced the wires going to the GP relay from the starter relay. I plugged it in again and about 3 hours later she fired up after a little talking to. Thanks a lot for all your help! I hope I can help somebody down the road too.-Z

 

Good deal man! Glad you're motorin' again.

 

Just remember, those original "wires" were actually fusible links, DESIGNED to burn out in the event of a circuit overload. If you replaced them with just plain copper wire, then that circuit is unprotected, and a circuit overload will express itself in the wire(s) overheating. You might want to consider putting a fuse link like this: in line.

 

Thanks Madpugue, I'll order it today. First I'm going to take another ride though...

I'm happy to be driving "Molly" (my kids named my truck like they do all my 18 wheelers) again too Nate. Fuel prices be damned I'm gonna have some fun with her today