I am putting a 97 dodge cummins 12v cummins turbo diesel into a 77 f-150 4x4 along with a 5 speed. truck was a 6 cylinder auto. Does anyone know how I would run the fuel lines with the factory tank, and how would I wire up the glow plugs. Any help would be appreciated, thanks,
Bill
I admire the idea of a diesel in our late model trucks, but wouldn't a 250 or 350 be a better platform (especially after you add a chip, propane injection, nitrious!).
John.
Are you sure the F-150 will support the weight of the Cummins? They are fine engines and I drive one every day but they are heavy and loud even in newer cabs with all kinds of insulation and sound deadening panels. If you keep it stock, you are going to be seeing too many c***y tail lights.
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Tom
55 F-100 w/efi & twin-i-beams
I don't think the extra weight would be a problem, the difference would be less then adding a snowplow. I have a 3/4 ton supercab 4x4 that I might put it in, but still deciding. I've got some friends who have dodges with the 12v motor, dont need propane or any of that junk. Just drill out the plate on the injection pump, and get a bigger turbo, add a cam. I did not know they did not have glow plugs, I thought they did. I guess I'll find out when I pull it out of the dodge today. It will be a while before I get it in the truck. Any idea on the fuel system?
The donor truck will have an in tank ' low pressure' pump. To access the pump, their is a (approx.) 5" dia. locking ring in the top of the fuel tank. The float/sending unit and low pres. pump is build together on the same assembly.
The efi ford tanks may have the same size hole and lock ring in the top of their tanks, not sure. I think the only other fuel pump on the Cummins is at the fuel regulator on the left side (drivers side) of the engine.
If your boosting HP from stock, you may want to consider a different transmission, they are notoriously weak. That, I am sure is one reason dodge turns down the hp on the cummins to around 175 stock. They can produce many many more HP with the right modifications.
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Tom
55 F-100 w/efi & twin-i-beams
The '97 Cummins as found in Dodge pickups is a 12 valve engine and uses the P7100 injector pump. It uses a mechanical lift pump mounted on the side of the engine.
This engine can be made to run without any electrical connections except to the starter. There is a fuel shutoff solonoid on the back of the injector pump that can be replaced with a cable. All of the other electronics (grid heaters -not glowplugs-, fuel heater, etc) are really optional.
You will need to run a line back to the tank for fuel return.
To get more HP/torque, my plan is :
#4 torque plate
370 hp injectors
16cm^2 hot side on the turbo
4K rpm governor spring kit
191 delivery valves
That ought to make ~400hp and 800-900ft/lbs torque.
Suggestions would be to do the killer dowel pin fix and fully splined mainshaft for the NV4500.
The engine dressed is about 1050 lbs. You will need heavier springs and I would look at big spindles and 8 lugs on the front ir better yet, a Dana 60 HP.
I want to put in the nv 4500, it should hold up good with the fixes, would a ford ZF 5 speed hold up to the diesel, I have access to one of these relatively cheap. Did you make your own alternator brackets for your truck? What did you run for pullies and accessories? If it is a low pressure pump at the tank, then I could probally put an inline pump in the line, and put a return line in the tank, or get a fuel tank out of a ford diesel with the pump. There is a web site that makes motor mounts, fordcummins.com, but they want 250, might make them myself. Did you have any trouble clearing the front crosmember?
Thanks,
Bill
Careful using 150 running gear. The dana might not hold up unless you just do light trails. Forget about anything more than that for 4wheeling. The axle tubes just wont support the weight. Upgrading to the 250 front end like mentioned is a much better choice if you intend to put the effort into the diesel coversion
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78 F150 4wd short bed, pearl blue
Originally posted by hillbillyk I want to put in the nv 4500, it should hold up good with the fixes,
would a ford ZF 5 speed hold up to the diesel, I have access to one of these relatively cheap.
Did you make your own alternator brackets for your truck?
What did you run for pullies and accessories?
If it is a low pressure pump at the tank, then I could probally put an inline pump in the line, and put a return line in the tank, or get a fuel tank out of a ford diesel with the pump.
There is a web site that makes motor mounts, fordcummins.com, but they want 250, might make them myself.
Did you have any trouble clearing the front crosmember?
Thanks,
Bill
I would run the NV4500 because it bolts right up to your engine. I have not been impressed by the duribility of the ZF. You can buy the NV4500 to NP205 adapter from Advance Adapters.
I have not finished setting it all up but it appears all i am going to have to do is build/buy a A/C bracket. The Cummins compressor is sitting right down where the crossmember is.
The Cummins lift pump is on the side of the engine just like a what you are running.
I had to take the front crossmember down to 1/2 of its original height. It was plated over and the frame was boxed back about 18" from where the factory stopped. It ends just in front of the front spring shackle.
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'78 F250 4x4 Supercab, Cummins 6bta, NV4500, South Bend clutch, NP205, Dana 70/60. Click on my gallery for lots of build pictures.
'55 F100. 302, Tremec TKO, 9" 4.11 LSD, A/C P/S, disc brakes, cruise, arrest-me red. On the road since 1989.
Instead of cutting the crossmember I was thinking about mounting the engine and transmission a few inches higher, then putting on a body lift to clear, I don't really like the idea of cutting the crossmember.
The '97 Cummins as found in Dodge pickups is a 12 valve engine and uses the P7100 injector pump. It uses a mechanical lift pump mounted on the side of the engine.
This engine can be made to run without any electrical connections except to the starter. There is a fuel shutoff solonoid on the back of the injector pump that can be replaced with a cable. All of the other electronics (grid heaters -not glowplugs-, fuel heater, etc) are really optional.
You will need to run a line back to the tank for fuel return.
To get more HP/torque, my plan is :
#4 torque plate
370 hp injectors
16cm^2 hot side on the turbo
4K rpm governor spring kit
191 delivery valves
That ought to make ~400hp and 800-900ft/lbs torque.
Suggestions would be to do the killer dowel pin fix and fully splined mainshaft for the NV4500.
The engine dressed is about 1050 lbs. You will need heavier springs and I would look at big spindles and 8 lugs on the front ir better yet, a Dana 60 HP.
This is very good info i was pretty set on doing the 24v swap!!! but now that I realize i can still get the performance that i want from this engine i just may try to get a 12v because i understand its just easier/cheaper. 400hp and 800ft lbs sound awsome!!!! But at what cost????
This is very good info i was pretty set on doing the 24v swap!!! but now that I realize i can still get the performance that i want from this engine i just may try to get a 12v because i understand its just easier/cheaper. 400hp and 800ft lbs sound awsome!!!! But at what cost????
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