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6.7L Power Stroke Diesel 2011-2015 Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

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  #1  
Old 11-08-2013, 03:45 PM
crazyduck crazyduck is offline
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20" Light Bar Wiring to Bright lights

Happy Friday all....

We all know how bad the F250 lights are and have been contemplating between changing out the stock lights to HID's or add the light bar in the bumper. Well, i'm going with the Rigid 20" E series spot/flood and wanted to see if somebody had a clean and easy way to wire it into the bright lights. I do want to be able to use my aux too and saw a good post of this on this forum but wanted to check and see if there are any other examples of wiring. I just don't want to mess anything up wiring into the stock brights.

Thank you...
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  #2  
Old 11-08-2013, 04:07 PM
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I'd just tap into the bright light wires off one of your head lights. Keep in mind that its probably illegal to have those on while driving unless you're off road. You might be better hooking them up to a switch.
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  #3  
Old 11-08-2013, 04:17 PM
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miles.degrandi
Unless you already bought it or are determined to waste your money, there are many other options besides rigid that are just as durable and just as bright.
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2003 F350 KR 4x4 - 6.0L
-ARPs, egr delete, coolant filter, blue spring, 5" MBRP, S&B, SRL+, SGII/EV2s, Flight Fab trac bars, 4" lift/35s, empty wallet, etc
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  #4  
Old 11-08-2013, 04:28 PM
RobFlag RobFlag is offline
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ACF6, OK, do tell!
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  #5  
Old 11-08-2013, 04:34 PM
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miles.degrandi
I am a fan of ledwarehouse.com, i have their cube lights next to my fogs and they are pretty damn bright. When i do my front end conversion, i plan on buying one of their 20" double row bars for the front of my truck. Another member Trey, A/ox4, has their 50" double row bar and loves it.
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Miles
2003 F350 KR 4x4 - 6.0L
-ARPs, egr delete, coolant filter, blue spring, 5" MBRP, S&B, SRL+, SGII/EV2s, Flight Fab trac bars, 4" lift/35s, empty wallet, etc
coming soon: BPD water pump, Dieselsite HPOP, running for more than a week

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  #6  
Old 11-08-2013, 04:36 PM
RobFlag RobFlag is offline
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Cool, I recall the post with the fogs and that is on my list! Thanks
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  #7  
Old 11-08-2013, 04:58 PM
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Unfortunately those knock offs aren't proven yet. While I don't agree with rigids prices, they have proven to be very reliable.
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2011 F250 KR 6.7--6,000k heads/fogs/led switchbacks, black headlights, Recon, H&S mm, Flo pro with 6" powder-coated tip, Denali sled deck, Compustar alarm/remote, some plasti dipping, Rigid LEDs
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  #8  
Old 11-08-2013, 04:59 PM
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miles.degrandi
Im sure they are reliable, but why spend three times the price on the exact same product, just priced high because of the name?
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2003 F350 KR 4x4 - 6.0L
-ARPs, egr delete, coolant filter, blue spring, 5" MBRP, S&B, SRL+, SGII/EV2s, Flight Fab trac bars, 4" lift/35s, empty wallet, etc
coming soon: BPD water pump, Dieselsite HPOP, running for more than a week

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  #9  
Old 11-08-2013, 05:12 PM
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Most of the knock offs never came close to what rigid produces, hopefully these prove to be as reliable, the output sure seems good from what I've seen.
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2011 F250 KR 6.7--6,000k heads/fogs/led switchbacks, black headlights, Recon, H&S mm, Flo pro with 6" powder-coated tip, Denali sled deck, Compustar alarm/remote, some plasti dipping, Rigid LEDs
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  #10  
Old 11-08-2013, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyduck View Post
Happy Friday all....

We all know how bad the F250 lights are and have been contemplating between changing out the stock lights to HID's or add the light bar in the bumper. Well, i'm going with the Rigid 20" E series spot/flood and wanted to see if somebody had a clean and easy way to wire it into the bright lights. I do want to be able to use my aux too and saw a good post of this on this forum but wanted to check and see if there are any other examples of wiring. I just don't want to mess anything up wiring into the stock brights.

Thank you...
best thing to do is use a relay driven off the brights. and one powered from an upfitter switch..

so you would wire it this way

light bar relay
battery ----> 30
lights <------ 87
ground ----> from second relay
upfitter switch --- 85

this means power to the light bar will ONLY be on when
1. the upfitter switch is on
AND
2. the brights relay is on

brights relay

ground ---> 30 & 85
to light relay --->87
jumper from bright headlight power to 86

this relay toggles ground on and off, depending on the brights being on or not.

the ground ON would enable the light bar relay
when the upfitter is on.

this puts the minimum amount of power draw on any existing circuit
(power to toggle the relay, which is about .23 amps, (usually 2.8 watts or less))
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  #11  
Old 11-08-2013, 05:20 PM
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miles.degrandi
What is so different about rigid? Ive seen them in person, my "knock offs" look 100% identical besides the fact that rigids say rigid. Use the same Cree XLEDs as well
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2003 F350 KR 4x4 - 6.0L
-ARPs, egr delete, coolant filter, blue spring, 5" MBRP, S&B, SRL+, SGII/EV2s, Flight Fab trac bars, 4" lift/35s, empty wallet, etc
coming soon: BPD water pump, Dieselsite HPOP, running for more than a week

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  #12  
Old 11-08-2013, 05:32 PM
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Rigid is proven, haven't heard of anyone having issues with them, can't say the same with all these knocks off that popped up, some of which I experience with. Again, hope these new LEDs are good, how long have you had yours exactly?
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2011 F250 KR 6.7--6,000k heads/fogs/led switchbacks, black headlights, Recon, H&S mm, Flo pro with 6" powder-coated tip, Denali sled deck, Compustar alarm/remote, some plasti dipping, Rigid LEDs
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  #13  
Old 11-08-2013, 05:33 PM
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miles.degrandi
Ive had mine for about 3 weeks. Much longer than ill ever own a rigid product (unless its free)
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Miles
2003 F350 KR 4x4 - 6.0L
-ARPs, egr delete, coolant filter, blue spring, 5" MBRP, S&B, SRL+, SGII/EV2s, Flight Fab trac bars, 4" lift/35s, empty wallet, etc
coming soon: BPD water pump, Dieselsite HPOP, running for more than a week

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  #14  
Old 11-08-2013, 11:49 PM
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I am not here to knock on anyones opinion or choice in product. Just to give fair and unbiased information. Baja Designs makes some of the best LED products on the market. Having the ability to self configure your light to suit your specific needs is a huge advantage over almost everything else out there. The optics are a critical part of the lighting process and Baja is the only company I know that lets you change between 4 different ones. In terms of the actual LED's, Rigid, and the off brand are using XPG... Baja is using XML 2. They are a much higher output LED. One single XML 2 LED puts out over 1000 lumens! Next big factor that comes into play... heat management. LED's although much cooler in temperature than HID or incandescent, heat is their enemy. Baja uses copper to convect heat away from the core. I can't speak for the others.

I don't want to get into a pissing match, but I have seen both a rigid, and a Baja side by side, and it wasn't even close. Baja projected further, smoother, wider, and the coloring was way better. That doesn't mean that Rigid doesn't offer an excellent product as well.

And to the OP Crazyduck... are you sure you really want to have them on your high beams? You go to flash to pass or flash oncoming traffic to alert them to something and you will not have happy campers in the other car haha.

Lastly, to anyone who wants the light output of the big bars but more discreet. Look into the Baja Designs Squadron XL. I directly replaced my fogs and love them. If I Had bought them first I wouldn't have purchased the bar.
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  #15  
Old 11-09-2013, 06:53 AM
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Those are sharp lookin', nice find. Added to the "list"...
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Old 11-09-2013, 06:53 AM
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