Cleaning out the cowl
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I'm pretty certain the '63 cowl area is similar to my '65 cowl area. I once owned a '63, but that was many moons ago.........
The '65 cowl area provides air to the kinda-triangular-shaped vent doors, inside below the dash, in the sides of the cab wall, forward of the doors. If you open those vents all the way, you can reach in and pick out most anything that has made it's way through the cowl vent slots and settled in the cavity below the vent doors. It helps if you have a small-ish shop vac hose to get it in there too.
I usually use my hand to pick out the majority of the debris, then a small vac hose to get the small stuff out. Then I dump about a 1/2 gallon of water into the cowl at each end. The water will flush out any remaining dirt through the drain holes at the bottom of the cab walls. If the drain holes are plugged, you may need to poke a piece of wire up through them from under the cab. I check my drain holes frequently to ensure they don't get plugged up. If they do get plugged off, any rain water/wash water will not drain out and rust will develop inside.
BarnieTrk
The '65 cowl area provides air to the kinda-triangular-shaped vent doors, inside below the dash, in the sides of the cab wall, forward of the doors. If you open those vents all the way, you can reach in and pick out most anything that has made it's way through the cowl vent slots and settled in the cavity below the vent doors. It helps if you have a small-ish shop vac hose to get it in there too.
I usually use my hand to pick out the majority of the debris, then a small vac hose to get the small stuff out. Then I dump about a 1/2 gallon of water into the cowl at each end. The water will flush out any remaining dirt through the drain holes at the bottom of the cab walls. If the drain holes are plugged, you may need to poke a piece of wire up through them from under the cab. I check my drain holes frequently to ensure they don't get plugged up. If they do get plugged off, any rain water/wash water will not drain out and rust will develop inside.
BarnieTrk
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Found an article on ddavidv's website helpful on how to clean the numerous water drain cavities thru out the cab and fenders. The leaves and dirt that accumulates in the cowl eventually make it down to the fender and cab drain cavities; found the relief holes on the 65 so impacted with dirt and debris; especially the fender, it could take days for the water to eventually drain from the air vent pockets, creating an ideal habitat for rust. Perhaps ddavidv will chime in and provide the link; at least I found the article helpful!!
#15
Fellas,
Here is another suggestion; I would drill two drain holes in the crossmember/brace that crosses the width of the cab, behind the foot area & just ahead of where the seats bolt down. I'd suggest a 1/2" hole about 4-5" from each end. This crossmember/brace collects mud/dirt/water and does not drain; so it rusts out! I drilled the two holes in each of my '65s. I then used a water hose to flush out all the crud that had collected / built up inside the brace and then I used an air hose to blow out the excess water (Yep, a messy job, but worth it). Lastly, about twice a year I poke a piece of wire up and around inside each hole - just to ensure it isn't plugged off and is draining adequately. An air hose blasted in there is also a good idea.
Now, with the new drain holes installed, the crossmember/brace does not collect mud/crud, it stays dry and should not rust out nearly as fast as if I hadn't added the drain holes. It works for me!
BarnieTrk
Here is another suggestion; I would drill two drain holes in the crossmember/brace that crosses the width of the cab, behind the foot area & just ahead of where the seats bolt down. I'd suggest a 1/2" hole about 4-5" from each end. This crossmember/brace collects mud/dirt/water and does not drain; so it rusts out! I drilled the two holes in each of my '65s. I then used a water hose to flush out all the crud that had collected / built up inside the brace and then I used an air hose to blow out the excess water (Yep, a messy job, but worth it). Lastly, about twice a year I poke a piece of wire up and around inside each hole - just to ensure it isn't plugged off and is draining adequately. An air hose blasted in there is also a good idea.
Now, with the new drain holes installed, the crossmember/brace does not collect mud/crud, it stays dry and should not rust out nearly as fast as if I hadn't added the drain holes. It works for me!
BarnieTrk