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Kalahari Willem 6.0 no starts

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Old 10-29-2013, 03:35 AM
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Kalahari Willem 6.0 no starts

Hallo Everybody! I am writing from Maun in the Okavango Delta-Botswana. I run a safari outfit here. I have a fleet of old IH 1310 4x4's. But recently imported from the USA 2x F350's with V8 6ltr. The 2005 King ranch with 80 000 miles has been giving me an hard time. I dont have any of diagnostic kit, but the vehicle shows no check engine light....thanks to the forum i managed to get it running again but not perfectly:
1. Clutch switch caused no start, cleaned fitted back and started.
2. vehicle parked for 3 weeks, on start-up smoked like a train...no power, pulled and cleaned EGR, now running fine, but misfires it seems.
3. I replaced all filters.
4.Removed dieseltank and inspected fuel pickup and return line.
5. Did bubble check on injectors all fine.
6. Vehicle cranks 5sec + to start and it seems to start on a cylinder at a time.
7. Tested FICM and voltages all good in different modes.
8. Cleaned all sensors i could find.
9. Truck has power, accelerates fine, but just seems to miss at all revs.
10. sometimes idle perfectly and then engine shakes a little like misfiring on 1 cylinder.
Any idea anyone?
Greetings from the African Bush. Today it is 108F!
 
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:09 AM
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moved to the 6.0 forum for better assistance
 
  #3  
Old 10-29-2013, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by pendukasafaris
Hallo Everybody! I am writing from Maun in the Okavango Delta-Botswana. I run a safari outfit here. I have a fleet of old IH 1310 4x4's. But recently imported from the USA 2x F350's with V8 6ltr. The 2005 King ranch with 80 000 miles has been giving me an hard time. I dont have any of diagnostic kit, but the vehicle shows no check engine light....thanks to the forum i managed to get it running again but not perfectly:
1. Clutch switch caused no start, cleaned fitted back and started.
2. vehicle parked for 3 weeks, on start-up smoked like a train...no power, pulled and cleaned EGR, now running fine, but misfires it seems.
3. I replaced all filters.
4.Removed dieseltank and inspected fuel pickup and return line.
5. Did bubble check on injectors all fine.
6. Vehicle cranks 5sec + to start and it seems to start on a cylinder at a time.
7. Tested FICM and voltages all good in different modes.
8. Cleaned all sensors i could find.
9. Truck has power, accelerates fine, but just seems to miss at all revs.
10. sometimes idle perfectly and then engine shakes a little like misfiring on 1 cylinder.
Any idea anyone?
Greetings from the African Bush. Today it is 108F!
Welcome to FTE..............One of the first things you'll hear on this site from the pro's is Gauges, OTHER than the in dash gauges that come with these trucks. Although I am relatively new to the 6.0 I have learned much from the regulars here and if yo listen to them you'll be fine. It sounds like you do much of your own wrenching and that will be your saving grace on the 6.0 So again get some type of diagnostic gauges ( I use ScangaugeII with the programmable Xgauges) there are a few different ones so watch for the pro's they'll be chiming in soon. Mcrafty1
 
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:39 AM
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Thanks will look into that, the hardest thing is to get spares out here, the freight cost more than the parts!
 
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:48 AM
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Is it possible you are getting contaminated fuel? If you are that far out, maybe the quality of the fuel you are getting is not so good? ie water, not filtered well etc...Did you open up the HFCM and drain it? What does it look like? Have you replaced your fuel filters recently?
 
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:56 AM
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Hi Bill

The fuel appears clean, changed filters and found about 2 drops of water in the water trap, what baffled me was that the truck ran 3000miles without a problem, but i had it standing for 3 weeks while i was on safari, when i returned it started, cleaning the egr got it running again, i thought straight away dirty fuel after the long rest but filter were not dirty, although i replaced them. I inspected the wiring all over...we have some ambitious rodents here, but couldnt find anything.
rgds

Willem
 
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Old 10-29-2013, 06:06 AM
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Could be an injector issue. You need a diagnostic tool that will tell you live data.
 
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Old 10-29-2013, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by pendukasafaris
Hi Bill

The fuel appears clean, changed filters and found about 2 drops of water in the water trap, what baffled me was that the truck ran 3000miles without a problem, but i had it standing for 3 weeks while i was on safari, when i returned it started, cleaning the egr got it running again, i thought straight away dirty fuel after the long rest but filter were not dirty, although i replaced them. I inspected the wiring all over...we have some ambitious rodents here, but couldnt find anything.
rgds

Willem
2 drops of water in the water trap? You mean when you drained the water separator only 2 drops came out?
 
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Old 10-29-2013, 06:19 AM
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yes only 2 drops of water!
 
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Old 10-29-2013, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by pendukasafaris
yes only 2 drops of water!
Something is odd there as you should get a fair amount of fuel out of the HFCM drain when you remove the plug. You need to make certain you only have OEM oil and fuel filters and OEM cap with OEM air filter installed. And you need to have the DTC read, even though there is no check engine light there can be pending codes, and as previously mentioned there is a good chance that an injector is making it run rough. You need to have the dynamic fuel pressure tested ( the pressure under load ) the fuel pressure needs to be above 45 PSI at WOT ( wide open throttle ). Here is a video showing the differences between aftermarket and OEM filters,
 
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Old 10-29-2013, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by pendukasafaris
yes only 2 drops of water!
Maybe I'm not understanding what you are saying. I don't know how one would measure 2 drops of water, but when I open my HFCM drain, I get more than just 2 drops of fuel/water mix coming out. I can fill up a cup easily when I crack my drain open. If yours isn't draining that much then your HFCM could be extremely dirty/gummed up and causing fuel delivery issues. I would suspect that you are in a very high humidity location and if your tanks were only 1/4 to 1/2 full, you would have lots of condensation. I'm just guessing.
 
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:03 AM
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Since you removed the fuel tank and inspected the lines, I am assuming that you drained all the fuel from it at that time? If so, I see how that can rule out "old fuel" at least.

You really do need a code reader and a scan tool, but since you have two 6.0L's, you can swap parts from the working one to test a few components like the EGR valve and the FICM.

Even with good voltages, the FICM can be bad. Also, sometimes the EGR valve is bad and simple cleanings do not work.

That being said, your symptoms sure sound like a bad injector and that will be found with the test equipment. An AutoEnginuity would be best, but some others would probably give better advice than me on "which update AE runs on what computer software". The advantage of the AE over the scangaugeII is fairly significant. AE offers the ability to check injectors.

Since you are in such a remote area, some spare parts would be wise IMO. Also, a fuel pressure gauge is VERY important and it would be wise to install one ASAP. ` If you catch low fuel pressure quickly, it isn't nearly as damaging to injectors.
 
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:39 AM
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Thanks i will have a look at the gauges and scan tools. Another thing, i changed the alternator on this vehicle, the battery light kept coming on, if i played with the pigtail on the alternator it would charge but go off when you release it. fitted a new alternator and it work well for a while, but now it also starts to light up the battery light. is it usual for these alternators to get so hot? Like to the touch? i noticed on both vehicles, i understand they have high output but never experienced it before with other vehicles?
 
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by pendukasafaris
Thanks i will have a look at the gauges and scan tools. Another thing, i changed the alternator on this vehicle, the battery light kept coming on, if i played with the pigtail on the alternator it would charge but go off when you release it. fitted a new alternator and it work well for a while, but now it also starts to light up the battery light. is it usual for these alternators to get so hot? Like to the touch? i noticed on both vehicles, i understand they have high output but never experienced it before with other vehicles?
Yes, alternators are very hot! I've seen this posted a few times on here. Also if your alternators arent charging you can potentially harm your FICM!
 
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by pendukasafaris
Thanks i will have a look at the gauges and scan tools. Another thing, i changed the alternator on this vehicle, the battery light kept coming on, if i played with the pigtail on the alternator it would charge but go off when you release it. fitted a new alternator and it work well for a while, but now it also starts to light up the battery light. is it usual for these alternators to get so hot? Like to the touch? i noticed on both vehicles, i understand they have high output but never experienced it before with other vehicles?
You need to load test the batteries separately ( completely disconnected from one another ) as a battery with a dead cell will kill an alternator. Replacement batteries usually don't last longer than a couple of years on these trucks and should be replaced in pairs.
 


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