Kalahari Willem 6.0 no starts
#1
Kalahari Willem 6.0 no starts
Hallo Everybody! I am writing from Maun in the Okavango Delta-Botswana. I run a safari outfit here. I have a fleet of old IH 1310 4x4's. But recently imported from the USA 2x F350's with V8 6ltr. The 2005 King ranch with 80 000 miles has been giving me an hard time. I dont have any of diagnostic kit, but the vehicle shows no check engine light....thanks to the forum i managed to get it running again but not perfectly:
1. Clutch switch caused no start, cleaned fitted back and started.
2. vehicle parked for 3 weeks, on start-up smoked like a train...no power, pulled and cleaned EGR, now running fine, but misfires it seems.
3. I replaced all filters.
4.Removed dieseltank and inspected fuel pickup and return line.
5. Did bubble check on injectors all fine.
6. Vehicle cranks 5sec + to start and it seems to start on a cylinder at a time.
7. Tested FICM and voltages all good in different modes.
8. Cleaned all sensors i could find.
9. Truck has power, accelerates fine, but just seems to miss at all revs.
10. sometimes idle perfectly and then engine shakes a little like misfiring on 1 cylinder.
Any idea anyone?
Greetings from the African Bush. Today it is 108F!
1. Clutch switch caused no start, cleaned fitted back and started.
2. vehicle parked for 3 weeks, on start-up smoked like a train...no power, pulled and cleaned EGR, now running fine, but misfires it seems.
3. I replaced all filters.
4.Removed dieseltank and inspected fuel pickup and return line.
5. Did bubble check on injectors all fine.
6. Vehicle cranks 5sec + to start and it seems to start on a cylinder at a time.
7. Tested FICM and voltages all good in different modes.
8. Cleaned all sensors i could find.
9. Truck has power, accelerates fine, but just seems to miss at all revs.
10. sometimes idle perfectly and then engine shakes a little like misfiring on 1 cylinder.
Any idea anyone?
Greetings from the African Bush. Today it is 108F!
#2
#3
Hallo Everybody! I am writing from Maun in the Okavango Delta-Botswana. I run a safari outfit here. I have a fleet of old IH 1310 4x4's. But recently imported from the USA 2x F350's with V8 6ltr. The 2005 King ranch with 80 000 miles has been giving me an hard time. I dont have any of diagnostic kit, but the vehicle shows no check engine light....thanks to the forum i managed to get it running again but not perfectly:
1. Clutch switch caused no start, cleaned fitted back and started.
2. vehicle parked for 3 weeks, on start-up smoked like a train...no power, pulled and cleaned EGR, now running fine, but misfires it seems.
3. I replaced all filters.
4.Removed dieseltank and inspected fuel pickup and return line.
5. Did bubble check on injectors all fine.
6. Vehicle cranks 5sec + to start and it seems to start on a cylinder at a time.
7. Tested FICM and voltages all good in different modes.
8. Cleaned all sensors i could find.
9. Truck has power, accelerates fine, but just seems to miss at all revs.
10. sometimes idle perfectly and then engine shakes a little like misfiring on 1 cylinder.
Any idea anyone?
Greetings from the African Bush. Today it is 108F!
1. Clutch switch caused no start, cleaned fitted back and started.
2. vehicle parked for 3 weeks, on start-up smoked like a train...no power, pulled and cleaned EGR, now running fine, but misfires it seems.
3. I replaced all filters.
4.Removed dieseltank and inspected fuel pickup and return line.
5. Did bubble check on injectors all fine.
6. Vehicle cranks 5sec + to start and it seems to start on a cylinder at a time.
7. Tested FICM and voltages all good in different modes.
8. Cleaned all sensors i could find.
9. Truck has power, accelerates fine, but just seems to miss at all revs.
10. sometimes idle perfectly and then engine shakes a little like misfiring on 1 cylinder.
Any idea anyone?
Greetings from the African Bush. Today it is 108F!
#5
#6
Hi Bill
The fuel appears clean, changed filters and found about 2 drops of water in the water trap, what baffled me was that the truck ran 3000miles without a problem, but i had it standing for 3 weeks while i was on safari, when i returned it started, cleaning the egr got it running again, i thought straight away dirty fuel after the long rest but filter were not dirty, although i replaced them. I inspected the wiring all over...we have some ambitious rodents here, but couldnt find anything.
rgds
Willem
The fuel appears clean, changed filters and found about 2 drops of water in the water trap, what baffled me was that the truck ran 3000miles without a problem, but i had it standing for 3 weeks while i was on safari, when i returned it started, cleaning the egr got it running again, i thought straight away dirty fuel after the long rest but filter were not dirty, although i replaced them. I inspected the wiring all over...we have some ambitious rodents here, but couldnt find anything.
rgds
Willem
#7
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#8
Hi Bill
The fuel appears clean, changed filters and found about 2 drops of water in the water trap, what baffled me was that the truck ran 3000miles without a problem, but i had it standing for 3 weeks while i was on safari, when i returned it started, cleaning the egr got it running again, i thought straight away dirty fuel after the long rest but filter were not dirty, although i replaced them. I inspected the wiring all over...we have some ambitious rodents here, but couldnt find anything.
rgds
Willem
The fuel appears clean, changed filters and found about 2 drops of water in the water trap, what baffled me was that the truck ran 3000miles without a problem, but i had it standing for 3 weeks while i was on safari, when i returned it started, cleaning the egr got it running again, i thought straight away dirty fuel after the long rest but filter were not dirty, although i replaced them. I inspected the wiring all over...we have some ambitious rodents here, but couldnt find anything.
rgds
Willem
#10
Something is odd there as you should get a fair amount of fuel out of the HFCM drain when you remove the plug. You need to make certain you only have OEM oil and fuel filters and OEM cap with OEM air filter installed. And you need to have the DTC read, even though there is no check engine light there can be pending codes, and as previously mentioned there is a good chance that an injector is making it run rough. You need to have the dynamic fuel pressure tested ( the pressure under load ) the fuel pressure needs to be above 45 PSI at WOT ( wide open throttle ). Here is a video showing the differences between aftermarket and OEM filters,
#11
Maybe I'm not understanding what you are saying. I don't know how one would measure 2 drops of water, but when I open my HFCM drain, I get more than just 2 drops of fuel/water mix coming out. I can fill up a cup easily when I crack my drain open. If yours isn't draining that much then your HFCM could be extremely dirty/gummed up and causing fuel delivery issues. I would suspect that you are in a very high humidity location and if your tanks were only 1/4 to 1/2 full, you would have lots of condensation. I'm just guessing.
#12
Since you removed the fuel tank and inspected the lines, I am assuming that you drained all the fuel from it at that time? If so, I see how that can rule out "old fuel" at least.
You really do need a code reader and a scan tool, but since you have two 6.0L's, you can swap parts from the working one to test a few components like the EGR valve and the FICM.
Even with good voltages, the FICM can be bad. Also, sometimes the EGR valve is bad and simple cleanings do not work.
That being said, your symptoms sure sound like a bad injector and that will be found with the test equipment. An AutoEnginuity would be best, but some others would probably give better advice than me on "which update AE runs on what computer software". The advantage of the AE over the scangaugeII is fairly significant. AE offers the ability to check injectors.
Since you are in such a remote area, some spare parts would be wise IMO. Also, a fuel pressure gauge is VERY important and it would be wise to install one ASAP. ` If you catch low fuel pressure quickly, it isn't nearly as damaging to injectors.
You really do need a code reader and a scan tool, but since you have two 6.0L's, you can swap parts from the working one to test a few components like the EGR valve and the FICM.
Even with good voltages, the FICM can be bad. Also, sometimes the EGR valve is bad and simple cleanings do not work.
That being said, your symptoms sure sound like a bad injector and that will be found with the test equipment. An AutoEnginuity would be best, but some others would probably give better advice than me on "which update AE runs on what computer software". The advantage of the AE over the scangaugeII is fairly significant. AE offers the ability to check injectors.
Since you are in such a remote area, some spare parts would be wise IMO. Also, a fuel pressure gauge is VERY important and it would be wise to install one ASAP. ` If you catch low fuel pressure quickly, it isn't nearly as damaging to injectors.
#13
Thanks i will have a look at the gauges and scan tools. Another thing, i changed the alternator on this vehicle, the battery light kept coming on, if i played with the pigtail on the alternator it would charge but go off when you release it. fitted a new alternator and it work well for a while, but now it also starts to light up the battery light. is it usual for these alternators to get so hot? Like to the touch? i noticed on both vehicles, i understand they have high output but never experienced it before with other vehicles?
#14
Thanks i will have a look at the gauges and scan tools. Another thing, i changed the alternator on this vehicle, the battery light kept coming on, if i played with the pigtail on the alternator it would charge but go off when you release it. fitted a new alternator and it work well for a while, but now it also starts to light up the battery light. is it usual for these alternators to get so hot? Like to the touch? i noticed on both vehicles, i understand they have high output but never experienced it before with other vehicles?
#15
Thanks i will have a look at the gauges and scan tools. Another thing, i changed the alternator on this vehicle, the battery light kept coming on, if i played with the pigtail on the alternator it would charge but go off when you release it. fitted a new alternator and it work well for a while, but now it also starts to light up the battery light. is it usual for these alternators to get so hot? Like to the touch? i noticed on both vehicles, i understand they have high output but never experienced it before with other vehicles?