I have a 2005 F250 6.0 turbo diesel made in 10/04. In the last couple of weeks I have noticed that my remote start has had an issue with starting the truck in the morning (up to 3 times to get it to start).So being electrically inclined and a distributor of remote starts, I assumed it was the tach and just replaced the unit. Turns out, it did the same thing the next morning. So then I decided to go out and start it myself by hand the next morning and noticed it was taking a little while longer to start (about 4-5 seconds). The temperature here now is in the low 40's, so I have started to plug it in and see if there is any difference. While there is a slight difference in the starting when plugged in (maybe a second or so), I am starting to see this happen which has not happened before. Whether it is above 40 outside and whether it is plugged in or not, I have to let it run for about 5 minutes before I give it throttle without it giving a hesitation at 3,000 rpm. This hesitation goes for about an additional 2-3 quick hits at the throttle, then it seems to straighten out. At first I though it was the transmission, but after it has been running for about 15 minutes it shifts smoothly. I am not blowing any smoke or showing any check engine lights and the truck just turned 100,000 miles. I was told the alternator was bad so I replaced it. The batteries are at 84 percent charged. Now I am being told 10,000 miles later to replace the fuel filters that were changed 10,000 miles before. I have always ran Lucas Oil extreme cold weather additive when the temps were down below 40. I have no check engine lights but I have also seem to have lost power. My turbo used to go as high as 30 psi and now it is going higherat a dead take off. I just need some input as to what to look for and how to test before I start pumping money where it may not be needed.

 

Fuel filters are normally changed 10k mile interval, no shocking news there.

What's the FICM voltage on a cold start?
Procedure:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html


Edit: This is the same advice you were getting back in April for what sounds like the same problem. Did you ever test FICM voltage the last time this started happening? You never posted results.