Advice ob Do's and Don't for seperating Cab and Frame
#1
Advice ob Do's and Don't for seperating Cab and Frame
I am to the point that its about time to figure out what would be the best way to seperate the cab from the frame on my 56 F100.
The glass in the truck is shot so breakage is not a concern. I recently read a post that addressed that..
The steering column and seat is out all wiring etc is out as is the fuel tank.
I guess I will try to lift and support it from the bottom unless that is a bad idea and roll the frame out from under it.
Should I remove the doors for weight reduction or would that create more problems because of flexing issues.
For those who have done this I would appreciation input..
Thanks in advance for your replies.
The glass in the truck is shot so breakage is not a concern. I recently read a post that addressed that..
The steering column and seat is out all wiring etc is out as is the fuel tank.
I guess I will try to lift and support it from the bottom unless that is a bad idea and roll the frame out from under it.
Should I remove the doors for weight reduction or would that create more problems because of flexing issues.
For those who have done this I would appreciation input..
Thanks in advance for your replies.
#2
Hi, what year is the truck? I've had my 55 off several times, three people can lift it off with ease. I would remove the doors, makes it a lot easier plus the doors add weight as you stated. on the 55's the cabs seem to be a bit front heavy so the third person is helping to steady the cab. We were able to lift it up and walk the cab towards the rear of the truck and set it on the ground or dollies.
good luck.
good luck.
#3
Sounds like you are ready to remove the four mounting bolts and lift it off. DO remove the doors, you really don't need the added weight. Since I work mostly alone, I have made a lift bar out of 2x4s that mount to the end of my engine hoist. I slip the hoist arm in through the door opening and just jack it up...nothing special, the lift arm sits on the door openings which provide plenty of support. The only trick is getting the arm centered so that the can doesn't slide one way or the other. Once the cab clears the frame then use the hoist to wheel the cab over to the side. If you haven't built a dolly for the cab yet then now is the time to do it. Here is a pic of the design that I use...2 8 ft lengths of 2x4, four casters and a few screws.
#4
What they said.
Also, if you're lifting it off in a residential garage, make sure you have enough head room to lift it high enough to clear the frame. If you're going to roll the frame from under it, make sure you can lift it high enough to clear the tires.
Also remember to never get under a lifted, heavy object.
Also, if you're lifting it off in a residential garage, make sure you have enough head room to lift it high enough to clear the frame. If you're going to roll the frame from under it, make sure you can lift it high enough to clear the tires.
Also remember to never get under a lifted, heavy object.
#5
It's MUCH easier with the doors off, unless there are 4 people doing the lifting. Me and my father-in-law removed it with the windows in and the doors on using an engine hoist, and it was a pain... However, me and my 11 year old daughter put it back on without the windows and doors, and it was MUCH easier. You can use the middle cab mounts (the ones in the floor on either side) and the rear seat mounting holes as lift points. The less the cab weighs, the less you have to worry about tweaking something...
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