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Project Rustbucket

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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 08:54 AM
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Project Rustbucket

My previous thread, which included some pics was entitled "new member, new project"

We have the bed and front clip off the F1 in the process of stripping it to the frame. Next is the cab, and therein lies the question.

How much can we expect the cab to weigh? We will probably try to muscle it off the frame and are trying to figure out how many people we are going to need. We have a four point lift, but have not come up with any good way to use it in lifting the cab.

Any thoughts would be appreciated and thanks for looking.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 09:44 AM
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I would strip the cab before lifting it off, meaning doors and seat out at minimum.

Get a cherry picker. Put a 4x4 inside the top of the cab, then attach tie downs on each side of the 4x4 through the hook in the cherry picker and lift up the cab. Make sure to balance the cab before lifting.

Also, a minimum of two strong guys can lift the cab, but three to four is ideal. The front of the cab weighs more than the rear.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 10:06 AM
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What do you mean by a 4 point lift?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 11:17 AM
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Two post lifts have arms that rotate that are usually placed under the frame rails for lifting purposes. Four post lifts have drive on ramps that extend the length of the vehicle and support the vehicle on its tires. Mine also has a sliding jack tray that allows you to place a jack anywhere under the vehicle.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 11:34 AM
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4 posts are generally called a drive-on lift. You possibly could lift the truck up, chain or strap the cab to the ceiling then drop the lift with the chassis out from under the cab.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 12:23 PM
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My son and I lifted my cab off with doors attached. It wasn't that heavy, but when we put it back on the doors were off of it and it was much easier. Doable with 2, but 3-4 makes it easier.

I had a pallet with 4 casters waiting for it to rest on as a work stand.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 01:16 PM
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You can raise the lift up, roll the truck under, strap or chain the truck cab to the bottom of lift ramps, remove all bolts and raise lift thus lifting the cab from the chassie and roll it away.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2013 | 12:13 PM
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NC Engine Shop

Any one here know of a machine shop in the Charlotte area experienced with flathead engines? My son and I will be tearing the engine down next week, and I would like to prepare for the worst. My prayer is that we can just freshen this one and be done, but I can't count on it.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2013 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by WNDOPDLR
Any one here know of a machine shop in the Charlotte area experienced with flathead engines? My son and I will be tearing the engine down next week, and I would like to prepare for the worst. My prayer is that we can just freshen this one and be done, but I can't count on it.
If anyone is, it's Doug Herbert. Doug has been building racing engines since flatheads were new, has a full shop!
Contact:
Doug Herbert Performance Center
Address: 4030 Concord Parkway S.
Concord, NC 28027
Tel: (877) 497-2787
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 07:42 PM
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Progress, if you can call demolition progress, continues. My son and I have it down to the bare frame and that will be painted and we begin reassembly in the next week or so. This forum is great. So much useful information given without ego or attitude. Thanks guys.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 06:12 PM
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The frame now has its first coat of POR 15 and the second coat will started as soon as additional paint arrives.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1377558320


I have a question concerning the springs. I would like to disassemble the springs , paint the leaves, insert the poly slide and reassemble the leaves. The front leaves are held in place by the center bolt, which I have removed, and small "C" clips that are blind riveted to multiple leaves. I can grind the head of the rivet and drill the remainder, but how do I reassemble? Are the clamps necessary or needed?

The rear springs use a "U" clamp that have a replaceable bolt , so they are no problem.

Thoughts please.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 01:32 PM
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If you could take the centerbolts out without the stack blowing apart, first consider yourself lucky you didn't end up with a broken wrist, ankle or worse, second the springs are completely collapsed and need replacing or they would have blown apart, third you never want to paint spring leafs (except possibly the edges) that would defeat the whole reason for using the slider strips, and paint is not flexible enough not to crack and flake off from the spring flexing. When cleaning used leafs always use a method that works in a straight line lengthwise to the leaf such as a hand wire brush, hand sanding or sanding with a belt sander. NEVER use anything that leaves scratches across the leaf such as a disk sander, angle grinder, rotary wire brush, or DA. Even fine sanding scratches across the leaf are cracks waiting/going to happen. The clamps securing the ends of the leafs are essential, they keep the intermediate leafs in line. don't remove the rivets unless you have a method to replace them.

LOVE the Vette!
 
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 03:56 PM
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The cab is light once the doors are off, I accomplished this by myself with a cherry picker.

 
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 08:18 PM
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Thanks AX. I used a big C clamp when I removed the center bolt and all went well. I would still like to separate the leaves that are clamped together so that I can get the slip and slide material in there. Your point about sanding the leaves is well taken, and I was going to use the POR 15 between the leaves, but it may gum up the works. Maybe I just won't be so **** about having pristine springs.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 08:52 PM
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Your springs are over 60 years old, have you thought about getting new ones? Might be a lot less work besides being a better ride. And the Vette is really nice!
 
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