I picked up the other piece of the driveshaft I needed and installed it yesterday. The truck wouldn't start so I put the battery on the charger overnight and it still wouldn't start this morning. So I cleaned up all the connections and it started up pretty easily.

I then proceeded to push the clutch pedal in and tried to put it in gear to move it for the first time in months, then I got a grind.... let up on the clutch and the pedal was on the floor. I tried to bleed it again and discovered fluid coming from between the bellhousing and engine adapter.

Brand new slave cylinder from O'Reilly's = dead. I will have to pull the transmission again to replace it.

 

Oh NO! Thanks for the warning, although mine will be external. Man, that is a bummer.

 

When I bought the trans it had a slave on it still, but was like "If I don't replace this it will turn out to be bad..."

 

Put the original back on? No, I wouldn't want to do that and doubt you do. I would want a new one - that doesn't leak.

 

I thought about it, but decided not since it has been sitting.

It seems that most places sell the same thing in different packaging, so I will take my chances again with the same brand. If that fails I will go for a brand that looks physically different. Which seems to be mainly LUK/Dormann.

 

Let us know what works as I'll be following in your footsteps.

 

Okay, so I haven't actually drove it anywhere else (only moved it around) but the slave isn't dead yet. So that's a plus. It hasn't been a big priority to finish, since I have other stuff to do but I have done a couple things that last few days. It looks really dirty but I can blame the it on the flash (right?). The filter may be overkill but it's that vs buying a smaller one that probably filters worse and flows less.

The air-filter from the bread van fit, after shortening one of the connections. I had to move the little vacuum canister for the HVAC controls but it can be relocated anywhere really:





I also redid the downpipe above. I just bought a 90 degree short radius 3" bend and put the vband flange in it, then welded it to the lower section of downpipe in this pic: https://i.imgur.com/KZhPKMO.jpg It looks like it is close the firewall from the angle of the picture, but I revved the engine and it doesn't actually get closer with the twist of the engine.

I purchased a section of 3" flex which will connect to the downpipe, then I will try to put the exhaust back on. Maybe this weekend.

To do:
-Fix PS pressure hose leak at gearbox.
-Find the source of the squeaking noise. (tensioner pulley I believe)
-Replace belt (the tensioner is almost bottomed out/belt stretch)
-Fix fuel return leak at the back of the engine.
-Fix fuel gauge, my return drop tube most have interfered with the fuel level.. thing.
-Get the right speedometer gear so I'm not going like 20mph faster than it says.
-Mount A/C compressor (that will probably be a while...)

 

Looks tight, but adequate. Good job!

 

Thanks!

I have bad news though.. I took the thing for a measly 5 mile trip to the gas station. Everything was going better than expected, no bad noises, no leaks other than the power steering. The coolant temp wasn't bad for an 80 degree day without a fan. It shifted through all the gears just fine, power was about what you would expect from a 105 HP engine. When I got back, I pushed in the clutch to stop and I was about to turn off the key. Then it tried to lurch forward and died. I looked under it and the internal slave is leaking. The pedal goes to the floor.

The clutch/pressure plate are the ones from the T19, the pilot bearing is new. I would think there was something wrong on my end, but the last one died without the truck moving a foot. So I guess I try a different style of internal slave, install the T19 which uses an external slave, or sell everything and forget about it.

Pic from the bottom inspection hole:

 

I know this was from a few months ago, and you're way past the radiator hoses. But I just found this thread (great thread by the way!) and thought I'd comment on a couple things.

If the upper and lower radiator hoses connected to the same side they'd connect to the top and bottom of the same tank. Then the easiest flow path would be directly through the one tank and the coolant wouldn't flow through the tubes at all. Essentially you wouldn't have a radiator.

You could get around this by having the tanks on the top and bottom with the tubes running vertical, but no one makes radiators like that anymore (probably for very good reasons, I just don't know them). Or you could block off the tank halfway down so the coolant would have to flow across the top half of the radiator to the opposite tank, down to the bottom and then back across the bottom half. I think you can understand why it's difficult if not impossible to find radiators with both hoses on the same side.

Ouch! I just had two driveshafts shortened for a total of $228. I realize it would be more expensive to lengthen one (the shop would need to provide a length of tubing and there'd be two welds instead of one to shorten). But more than twice as much? I'm thinking that I like my local driveshaft shop!

 

Yeah, I figured that out about the radiators. Having both hoses on the same side would have been a better, but not really an option. I just had to settle with hoses going from one side of the engine to the other.

On the driveshaft I just kept looking until I found used ones of the right length. I even had another driveshaft that was the correct length, and just needed the correct end put on, they said they wouldn't do it. The shop probably thought they could screw me since I'm 20... Same with the exhaust shop, "Can you guys weld this vband flange onto this exhaust pipe?" Then it turned into "Oh, you can't do that.. the used pipe will crack in the future, you need all new." Screw shops.

 

If anyone is interested I made a thread on the discussion of the internal slaves in the 1987+ section. I also bought a new clutch/pressure plate kit from LUK 07-015.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-failure.html

 

Good job documenting that "over there", but many of us swap later transmissions, like my ZF5, into the 80-86 trucks and want to use the master cylinder that sits vertically in them. So, if I understand what I've read that will be a 7/8" master and that needs to mate with a 7/8", not a 45/64", slave. And that means the slave has to be for a truck no later than '92. Right?

It would be nice if we had a sticky about this. Something short that explains the issues, which include the size differences as well as the tilt that was apparently introduced in '88. Is that something you could do?

 

Thanks, I posted it over there in hopes for more posts, since so many of those trucks had the internal slaves from the factory vs. the few of us with 1986 and older conversions. Once I figure out more info I will throw something simple together that makes the differences easier to see.

From what I read, this is correct for the masters:
1983-1987: 7/8th Master with straight up mount
1988-1992: 7/8th Master with angled mount
1993+: 45/64th Master, Angled Mount, Line Output below cylinder (vertical).

For the internal slaves:
Introduction-1992: Metal Slave, needs either 7/8th master
1993+: Plastic Slave, needs 45/64th master.

I did some more reading and LUK claims to have a metal slave with updated seal (LUK LSC002B). Maybe I will try that instead of butchering the firewall for the newer master, then having to buy a new line/master. Or just go all out and go for the newer parts. Decisions, decisions..

 

That looks like it'll work. Thanks. And, isn't it 45/64's?