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  #1  
Old 09-25-2013, 02:02 PM
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My 06 F-150 4X4 is wounded.

Yup...sad but true. My front drivers side wheel bearing is bad.
I'm new to the whole vacuum locking hub deal. I'm figuring it's probably cheaper to just replace the whole CV shaft assembly but, now here's the scary part, Ford wants over 4 hundred for theirs but, I can scare one up at my local NAPA store for about 114. There is a difference though. The aftermarket version does not have the ABS rotor sensor. Can that be swapped out? Can that thing account for the huge difference in price?
Any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated.
Capt'n
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Old 10-12-2013, 12:33 AM
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Healed.....I say.....HEALED!!
Turns out I all needed was a new hub and actuator. Banged it out on garage floor in an evening. Not a big fan of the vacuum front hub locks though...might consider a manual conversion.
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Old 10-12-2013, 04:03 PM
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I would go to manual!
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  #4  
Old 10-14-2013, 11:53 AM
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I don't know if this applies but over in the bronco side of things, people who swap from auto hubs like them mile markers. I think one day I'll swap my old worn out warns for some.
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Old 10-14-2013, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by GruesomeJeans View Post
I don't know if this applies but over in the bronco side of things, people who swap from auto hubs like them mile markers. I think one day I'll swap my old worn out warns for some.
Thanks...Just payed a visit to their site and they don't list any locking hubs for F-150's that have the Vac-Hub type auto hubs. I'll have to do some searching to see if Warn or anybody who might. Bet it won't be cheap.
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Old 10-14-2013, 12:53 PM
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Hmm well that sucks. Maybe someone here in the F 150 section has a recommendation.
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Old 10-14-2013, 11:45 PM
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The rumor mill said that Warn makes the ones for Ford and that is
why your not going to find anything. The other opting and it a lot of $$$$$$$$
Is a conversion from the unit bearing to the old style wheel bearings.

Sean
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yahiko View Post
The rumor mill said that Warn makes the ones for Ford and that is
why your not going to find anything. The other opting and it a lot of $$$$$$$$
Is a conversion from the unit bearing to the old style wheel bearings.

Sean
I figured a manual conversion was gonna cost a buck or two.
Thanks Sean.
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:08 AM
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Sure it's nice to stay inside where it's warm, dry, and clean, but I figure manual hubs are much more reliable than electric/vacuum.
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  #10  
Old 10-15-2013, 11:49 AM
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I'm with you Dylan....I'll give up a moment of comfort for butt solid reliability any day.
Capt'n
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:10 PM
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Mine are auto OR Lock

So that really covers it. If I want to know that they are
locked then I just lock them.

Sean
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Old 10-16-2013, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yahiko View Post
Mine are auto OR Lock

So that really covers it. If I want to know that they are
locked then I just lock them.

Sean
??? Huh? I'm a little thick at times. What type of hubs do you have Sean that allows you to be either lock or auto lock?
My trouble is not in the locking mode. Just cut off the vacuum source and bingo...your locked. My trouble is when I'm in normal 2 wd and, the vacuum is supplied to the hub auto actuators, they do unlock but.....when I accelerate and engine vacuum drops, they like to semi-disengage. This causes a sound much like a munchkin beating on a tambourine under my truck during acceleration. I think my vac reserve tank might have a leak somewhere. It's supposed to compensate for the vacuum drop when your accelerating so my hubs stay unlocked.
I'd be interested in know if there is a manual type of locking hub so that when it's unlocked...it stays unlocked. I'll post pix of the hub and the actuator that shows the wear of the gear teeth when they try and engage during vacuum drop. BTW, are there not check valves in the vacuum lines that are supposed to prevent this? Just wondering.
Capt'n
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Old 10-16-2013, 01:10 PM
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I was servicing my daily driver (06 F-150 LX 4X4) on my lift a couple weeks ago and while changing to oil (been a couple years) I checked my brake pads and gave my drivers side front wheel a spin. Rude noises were emitting from the hub. Bad wheel bearing. Since I've been listening to this tambourine sound for the past two years while in the normal 2wd mode I decided to not only get a new hub but, also change out the hub locking actuator. As you can see from the pix....it was a wise idea.
Capt'n
Click the image to open in full size.

Actuator still functioned but take a gander at those teeth cause by partial engagement.

Click the image to open in full size.

The teeth on the hub gear aren't much better.
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Old 10-16-2013, 04:05 PM
oddfordjunkie oddfordjunkie is offline
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Saying that something still has the original grease is not a good selling point. haha.
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Old 10-16-2013, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oddfordjunkie View Post
Saying that something still has the original grease is not a good selling point. haha.
yeah true. Turns out the large O-Ring that seals the world from the inner sanctum of the hub let a little water get in and wipe out the bearing.
Capt'n
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Old 10-16-2013, 04:43 PM
 
 
 
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