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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van SPONSORED BY:

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  #31  
Old 09-01-2013, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterCMK View Post
Iirc the 05+ water pumps are just bigger and are still a plastic impeller.
This is true. The impeller design was changed as well. I think someone did mention there was an aftermarket metal impeller pump besides the BPD one. Also, the 05+ has been shown to very rarely fail. Anthony (run6.0run) had like 500k+ miles on his original I believe.
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  #32  
Old 09-02-2013, 12:25 AM
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What would be Ideal is a OEM with Metal Impellar

or are they All Metal Now??
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  #33  
Old 09-02-2013, 12:33 AM
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Apparently NAPA is metal impeller.

http://napaautotech-classsupport.com...MPTEST1WEB.pdf
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  #34  
Old 09-02-2013, 01:47 AM
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Bryanstein, I printed off a pdf that I found here and followed it to a T. I only installed the Fumoto valve on the passenger side though.

Google this: Ford Powerstroke 6.0L Turbo Diesel Cooling System Overview and Flush

and the PDF is in the top couple.

I also used a couple YouTube videos - one where the guy left the driver-side block plug out and revved the engine to blow out the gunk.
I ended up buying a little cooling system flush kit and modifying it to fit into the oil cooler, and the heater core hose. I'll try to find a couple pics of the tools I used/made.
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  #35  
Old 09-02-2013, 01:58 AM
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Used a piece of neoprene to cap off one side of each of these adapters. Worked very well, although I might not be the best guy to give advice here ... because I still have cooling system problems.



A little electrical tape to hold the Torx bit in the wrench saved a ton of time removing the cap on the oil cooler coolant outlet.



3/4 inch hose from Home depot was a perfect fit.


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  #36  
Old 09-02-2013, 02:07 AM
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Now back to my question...

How can I test if the fan and clutch are working properly?

What might explain the metal coming out the passenger side block drain?



Can a poorly functioning coolant system account for the high delta, given that the oil cooler is new?
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  #37  
Old 09-02-2013, 02:38 AM
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well If you are not shy about doing a tap into a wire I know
on the 2006 if you apply ground to the control wire it will
take the fan to 100%. The PCM controls it by a PWM signal
pulling the 12V on the wire to ground. But be careful there is
a 12 V and a 5V signal on that plug also along with a speed
sensor output. You need to look at a diagram for you truck year.
By grounding the control line you after a minute or so give or
take a bit have full on if the fan and clutch are working right.

This is my prototyping tool
Click the image to open in full size.
This is the speed sensor output on a scope
Click the image to open in full size.

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  #38  
Old 09-02-2013, 10:24 AM
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What are your delta's when the truck is unloaded? If I read your post right the 24* delta was when pulling the camper.
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  #39  
Old 09-03-2013, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_auto_tech View Post
This is true. The impeller design was changed as well. I think someone did mention there was an aftermarket metal impeller pump besides the BPD one. Also, the 05+ has been shown to very rarely fail. Anthony (run6.0run) had like 500k+ miles on his original I believe.

I will say this n it will go out... Lol. But I'm at 740k now and still on the plastic impeller. Original pump. I have a couple extras, but mine still works.

If the flush is done properly,, and the coolant is changed at least every 100k, the oem oil cooler could last indefinitely. The bpd setup is not economical at all. It's a cool idea, and it works, but I think its just a compensation for lags in maintenance. Running old coolant in a sand free system will cause cavitation also.
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  #40  
Old 09-04-2013, 04:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by run6.0run View Post
I will say this n it will go out... Lol. But I'm at 740k now and still on the plastic impeller. Original pump. I have a couple extras, but mine still works.

If the flush is done properly,, and the coolant is changed at least every 100k, the oem oil cooler could last indefinitely. The bpd setup is not economical at all. It's a cool idea, and it works, but I think its just a compensation for lags in maintenance. Running old coolant in a sand free system will cause cavitation also.
Just for the record Anthony ...

Are you are still using the Ford Gold coolant?
Have you ever had an oil cooler fail?

I know you have probably posted it before (or maybe you even answered the question in a PM from me - lol), but I was curious about your trucks history on this particular component.

thanks!
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  #41  
Old 09-04-2013, 07:33 AM
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I would be interested in the answer to this question,also
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  #42  
Old 09-04-2013, 03:13 PM
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Another check is to have the radiator rodded and or replaced. When I did my heads two years ago I took my radiator in and had it rodded (only 100.00) and they said it was approx. 30% plugged up. I had another car that the heater would not work and after going thru everything it ended up being a clogged radiator. The car had no heat but did not overheat in triple digit temps in AZ. Remember if the crap in these engines will clog the oil cooler they will clog the heater core and radiator just as easily.
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  #43  
Old 09-04-2013, 08:34 PM
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Thanks for the idea Yahiko, but I'm not quite that electrically adept. Might have to just hook up to the camper again and see if I can get it to come on. Anyone care to comment how it sounds compared to a 7.3? I remember that being undeniable.

Corner gas - Yes, 24*F was the delta when the EOT hit ~250 going up the mountain. I really only drive the truck when I'm pulling the camper, and around town a little where it doesn't get a chance to heat up. I'm away now, but will take it for a spin when I get home and see what the "unloaded" delta's read.

I'm considering taking the radiator in regardless. Looks pretty simple to remove. (YouTube DieselTechRon)
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  #44  
Old 09-04-2013, 10:02 PM
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You should have no problem hearing the fan cut in, it is unmistakeable.
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  #45  
Old 09-04-2013, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corner Gas View Post
You should have no problem hearing the fan cut in, it is unmistakeable.
X2. Fan at 1200 rpm sounds like a prop plane.
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:23 PM
 
 
 
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