I'm a little confused how I am going to route the alternator belt(s) after removal of the two air pumps. The old configuration had a belt from the alternator straight to the crank, and then a second belt from the alternator -> crank -> air pump -> other air pump.

Now that there's no air pumps, that second belt has nowhere to go. I cannot put it straight to the crank, because the diameter of that pulley on the crank is smaller, so it would want to turn the alternator slower than the other belt.

I'm in the midst of a 3G swap to a 130 amp alternator, and I've heard two belts are required to attain that high an amperage. Is this correct, and if so, what do I do about that second belt? Since I've also deleted the A/C compressor, the water pump becomes an option to route the belt around (there's now an empty pulley in line), but I seriously doubt everything will turn at the same speed.

Any help would be much appreciated.

 

You are only going to be able to use one belt for the alternator. And you are correct, if you want the full output of the 130amp 3G, one belt may slip some. But most people never use the full output of this alternator, they just think they need all that power. Why do you need a 130amp alternator? If you really don't need it, just run it with a single belt and you will never know the difference.

 

I run mine with a single belt.
I don't have enough electric stuff to really tax the alternator. (but it seems that it should have an easy life at half the rated output)

It would give a 'chirp' on startup.
DON'T tension the heck out of it because you will kill the bearings.

Instead, find an alternator with LRC (load response control) or replace the regulator with one that is white rather than gray.

Like this; Regulator, Ford 3G Alternators - 14034 - R14034

 

The remanufactured alternator I got from the junkyard has a white regulator already. What's the difference?

An no, there's little chance I'll ever be pulling anywhere near 130A from this thing. I might add a nice stereo and amplifier at some point, but we're talking 60A draw (if that) at a rather low duty cycle. The only reason I did the swap is that I knew I was going to have everything apart to change the timing chain, and it was quite easy to find and pull an alternator since I was at the junkyard anyways (to find a factory tach). Better to have the 130 amps and not need it, than to need it and not have it!

Suffice it to say, I think the single belt will work fine. Thanks for the input fellas!

 

The (white) LRC regulator you have is "soft start".
Depending on the exact number it ramps up load over a few (2-10) seconds.

With a gray regulator the load is applied all at once.
And since the starter is pulling more amps than just about anything else the single V-belt is unable to transmit enough torque when cold.

The belt squeals a bit when you first turn the key until the alternator gets up to speed and the rubber warms enough for friction to overcome its resistance.

Just a chirp for a second or so, but it is annoying.
With the LRC regulator this is not an issue.

Can I ask what vehicle you pulled the alternator from?

 

I'm pretty sure it was a '95 Windstar with the 3.8L engine.

Looks identical to the alternator pictured in this auction:

Ford Windstar 3 8L 232 V6 1995 Alternator AMP 130 | eBay

 

Thank you.

That's a very good price with no core and free delivery!